Pedal shaft collar

[bunnyc]

My clutch pedal arm hits the back side of the wooden floor board.
Can I rotate the collar 180 degrees and reinstall?
I got the pin out OK. Having a bit of trouble removing the collar; rusted in position, can't turn it. The end of the shaft doesn't appear mushroomed.
Soaking in PB Blaster now. Considering adding some heat tomorrow.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A new collar might help, but the used collar is likely worn on both tabs, so rotating it may not help, but is still woth a try.

[harleytoprock]

If the tab is worn on the clutch pedal, it will need to be built up with weld. Then the pedal height can be adjusted by smoothing down the weld a little at a time and checking.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Use a long, stout drift and a BFH to drive the collar off the end of the shaft. You can move the clutch pedal forward (towards the floorboards) enough to provide a spot for the drift to rest against. Then start driving the collar off. You may need to alternately pry at the bottom between the collar and the pedal to keep the collar sliding straight and not get torqued at an odd angle. It'll come off.
Marshall

[bunnyc]

Thanks for the replies. I'll let you know how it turns out tomorrow. The collar looks symmetrical and the other side doesn't look deformed. Hope I can just flip it.

[jw hash]

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the stops on the pedal itself wares out. so I`m with Harleytoprock, remove the collar weld the stops up and file them back down until your clutch pedal is where you want it.

[MAG]

Agree with Posts 3 and 6.
The brake pedal also wears the same way.

[bunnyc]

Got the collar off. BFH and drift after heating it with the propane torch. Can't be flipped, it appears that was done previously.
I can't weld; my friend can do it this evening, then I'll file it down.
Thanks for the replies and help.

[bunnyc]

Success! My friend TIG welded a little dab on the collar. Then came trial, file, repeat. My clutch and brake pedals are even, clutch arm doesn't hit the back of the toe board, clutch is adjusted. Thank you husband and board members.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Before I bought a welding rig and learned how to do basic welding, I repaired problem pedal and shaft collar wear by drilling and tapping into both sides of the collar slots where the pedal mates with the collar. I then screwed in a small, shortened bolt into each hole, I don't recall what size now (this was 45 years ago!). The bolts bottomed out so that only the heads were above the surfaces, which was initially too tall. By removing the collar, filing the heads and replacing the collar to test pedal travel, I was able to get both bolt heads to do their jobs of acting as a stop for the pedal. It took several tweaks, but it worked. Of course, if only the collar had been worn, a simple replacement with a new one would have done the job. But when both the collar stops AND the pedal stops are worn - and you can't weld - this dual-bolt trick worked and lasted until I eventually sold the car. By TIG welding and filing, you did the same thing, only you ended up with more surface area to act as stops.
Marshall

[walkerlakeprinter]

Is there a trick to removing the clutch pedal collar? I want to remove
the clutch and brake pedals to replace the bearings (or make the unit
smaller for mailing to someone interested in rebuilding it). I drove the

pin out, but trying to pound the collar off I found it pretty stuck. Heat?

[Joe K]

Heat would be the solution du-jour.

If you're talented with a grinder and a thin wheel you could slice it off. (Chordal cuts) The heat of grinding might loosen it saving you from burning up an entire wheel.

New are available.

Joe K

[1931 flamingo]

Walker.....


Re-read posts 1 and 4.
Paul in CT

[walkerlakeprinter]

The propane torch heat worked like a charm. Thanks!

[Synchro909]

Now that the OP's problem has been resolved, I might side track ere.
On one of my cars, the clutch is very abrupt. It takes very little pedal movement to go from disengaged to fully engaged. New levers for the lower shaft are not available from vendors and this car has one on it that someone has fabricated. I suspect that it is too short.
What is the distance (centre to centre) from the shaft to the clevis pin? Once I know that, I'll make mine the same or maybe a little longer.

[Benson]

original 2 and 5/8ths center to center



Repro "heavy duty" one from Berts is 3 and 3/8ths

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Benson

original 2 and 5/8ths center to center



Repro "heavy duty" one from Berts is 3 and 3/8ths

Thanks, Benson. Now to find that old imperial measuring stick! (67 - 86mm)