21 stud rear main seal

[SofaKing]

I need a photo or description of how the rear main is assembled. It seems like I am missing a part or have the wrong seals. None of my books gives a suitable description. The parts on the left are the 21 stud parts, the others are from 59a. You can see that the rope seal is too small for the groove in the bearing cap. Is there another piece that fills that gap? Also, the crank has two flanges that look like they will straddle the seal when it is installed. Is that how this is supposed to work? It almost looks like it might be a labyrinth type arrangement. If you have a photo of any missing parts that would be most helpful. Thanks!

[bobH]

I assume you are aware that the 21 stud did NOT originally have a seal??
Curious... what is it that you are trying to do? Convert to 59A stuff?

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by bobH

I assume you are aware that the 21 stud did NOT originally have a seal??
Curious... what is it that you are trying to do? Convert to 59A stuff?

Actually, no I was not aware. It looked to me that it worked like jseery described, that's what I meant by labyrinth seal. Both slinger rings remain on the crankshaft. Thanks!

Are there improvements, seems like this must blow oil into the clutch area?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

Actually, no I was not aware. It looked to me that it worked like jseery described, that's what I meant by labyrinth seal. Both slinger rings remain on the crankshaft. Thanks!

Are there improvements, seems like this must blow oil into the clutch area?

The idea is very little oil gets past the slinger. There is a hole in the bottom of the cap to allow the oil to drain back into the oil pan. Obviously Ford decided that the rope seal was a better approach in latter models, but the slinger worked well enough.

[JSeery]

Yep, does not use a seal, uses a slinger. Do you have the correct crankshaft? The crankshaft should have the slinger on it, it is part of the original machine work of the crank. Sometimes they get machined off for whatever reason.

[Jack E/NJ]

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What? You don't like an oil-soaked clutch? How about an oil-soaked floor instead? That's what that little hole's for at the bottom of the bell-housing --- the one with the loose cotter pin rattling around in. 8^) Improvements aren't worth the trouble.

Jack E/NJ

[Talkwrench]

Does the 37 21 stud not have a cork type seal there?

[flatheadfan]

This is the typical pre-rope rear seal that I am familiar with. The seal is an upper and lower aluminum casting that fits in the block and the rear main. The crank slinger fits in it.

Tom

[JSeery]

Yep, that's what they look like. Should be somewhat V shaped inside. The later engines use a similar style of insert but with a rectangluar grove that is not near as deep that holds the rope seal. In the last photo you can see the drain back hole.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Ford never use a rope seal until 46 with the 59AB engine, don't try to put that seal in that groove where the slinger on the crank goes. A good crank and bearings leak very little, don't over fill the crank case. Walt

[Jack E/NJ]

JSeery>>>In the last photo you can see the drain back hole. >>>

Yep, in the old days that's the drain & pipe that got plugged up with sludge. 8^)

Jack E/NJ

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

JSeery>>>In the last photo you can see the drain back hole. >>>

Yep, in the old days that's the drain & pipe that got plugged up with sludge. 8^)

Jack E/NJ

I am missing the lower half of the aluminum casting. Where can I get one and has anyone ever heard of leaving it out so it is not clogged by sludge? Wondering why it is missing? Thanks to everyone and especially for the photos, now I know what it looks like....

[Jack E/NJ]

According to Reds Headers "In the 1932 to mid-1936 engines, there is seldom a pot metal labyrinth seal piece in the rear main bearing cap. There is just a cavity that leads to the drain hole, and probably a tube. These earlier engines do have a pot metal labyrinth seal piece in the block."

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red...e_talk_24.html

Jack E/NJ

[SofaKing]

it gets curiouser and curiouser. I suppose I'll assemble it without the bearing cap half of the aluminum casting and see what happens. These old cars are more quirky than I imagined, thanks again for the help.

Talkwrench- there is a cork seal on this engine that seals the bearing cap to the oil pan, it fits in a groove in the cap and the oil pan wall butts up against it. The oil pan has no flange at the contact point, just the wall thickness.

[Jack E/NJ]

That cork/rubber seal can be a troublemaker. On installing, tends to not stay in place. Sometimes get twisted or otherwise poorly contacting all the surfaces and can leak like a sieve. I use a neoprene seal affixed with some contact cement or rtv so it doesn't move when installing the pan.

Jack E/NJ

[Kurt in NJ]

The later replacement blocks had the cap made to take either type of seal so the original crankshaft or a new crankshaft could be used

[ford1933-2008]

Gentlemen,

Hopefully someone can assist me. The slinger pictured above thumbnail 2 is the slinger I have in my 36 "L" block. It is broken. Can someone advise where I can obtain a replacement or is there a replacement solution?

Hopefully you can assist me

David
[email protected]

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by ford1933-2008

Gentlemen,

Hopefully someone can assist me. The slinger pictured above thumbnail 2 is the slinger I have in my 36 "L" block. It is broken. Can someone advise where I can obtain a replacement or is there a replacement solution?

Hopefully you can assist me

David
[email protected]

The base part numbers are 6335 and 6336. the 35 is the upper half and the 36 is the lower half. You can purchase them through several sources, VanPelt is one. The VanPelt listings start with 1936.

Note: MACs list them as part # 32-17646-1

[ford1933-2008]

Originally Posted by JSeery

The base part numbers are 6335 and 6336. the 35 is the upper half and the 36 is the lower half. You can purchase them through several sources, VanPelt is one. The VanPelt listings start with 1936.

Note: MACs list them as part # 32-17646-1

Fantastic news, thank you