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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Danbury Ct
Posts: 1,254
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I removed the rear fenders from my tudor (and the shocks while I was at it) and brought them inside so I’d have some indoor projects for when it gets too cold to work in the unheated garage.
I had another “Evaporust” victory. The rear fender braces and tail light backing plates came out like new. It is expensive stuff, but it works great. I only buy it at Harbor Freight when I get those 20% off coupons. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,189
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Good looking results, indeed ! Yeah, I get it at same source for same reasons
![]() Are you aware that it can be reused and reused, making it a good value in the end ! How long did you let these braces soak to get to that stage of rust removal/conversion ? |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Danbury Ct
Posts: 1,254
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Yes I use the two home depot 5 gal. bucket method to extend its use. I have a hd 5 gal. bucket of the stuff in my workshop (these parts were soaked over night). If I let the bucket sit for a week the "sludge" settles to the bottom and I can pour off the "good stuff" into another bucket and keep using it. When a new 20% coupon comes I buy another bottle to top off my derusting station.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Does anyone have any idea how much of this stuff it would take to take the rust off a 21" wheel? And how would a person do it? Put is in a wading pool????? Or what?
Thanks for comments
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#5 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 5,230
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You can make a custom-fitted soaking tank for large but not very thick objects. Get a big box the wheel can lie flat in...cut most of its height away. Use duct tape and cardboard to fence off the corners...strengthens box a bit, gets rid of expensive volume.
Support sides of box with bricks laid against it, lay a sheet of plastic over the whole thing. and drop in wheel. You now have something that holds exactly one wheel worth of Evapo. Wheel of course can go in on each side to allow slightly shallower soak. If I suddenly get rich, I'm putting in a swimming pool and filling it with evaporust... |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Furthermore .......... if after suddenly getting rich, & after having a swimming pool as you describe, if soaking in your "Evaporust Pool" can de-rust our arthritis joints, you may even get richer. LOL |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jordan, MN
Posts: 1,411
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Carefully try this...
Put the wheel in a large yard strength garbage bag..pour in the Evaporust and then suck the air out with a shop vac and tightly seal the bag. This method should totally surround the wheel in liquid and won't require that much product. It may be wise to place the bag in a large catch pan just in case the bag leaks. Last edited by Dave in MN; 11-03-2014 at 02:13 PM. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Thanks guys for the ideas. Will have to give some of these ideas a try.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jordan, MN
Posts: 1,411
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I was thinking about your situation...
Place the wheel in a large heavy duty garbage bag and then place it in a tub or child's wading pool. Fill the garbage bag with a gallon of Evaporust and then start filling the tub or pool with water. While filling, hold the open end of the bag upright. As the water fills over the bag, it should displace all the air in the bag and the result should be that the wheel is surrounded by the rust remover. Secure the top of the bag in a manner that keeps the water from mixing with the Evaporust. If you want the product to act faster, use warm water to fill the tub. Good Day! |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,262
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I have used Evap-o-Rust. Soak item for a day or two in 75 degree solution.
When I remove the item that was soaking I rinse it in warm water and tons of black deposits keep coming off the item. I also scrub the item with a soft bristle brush. Then I dry quickly to avoid flash rusting. When done, I am looking at a new layer of rust. Is this stuff a rust remover or a rust converter ? Am I doing something wrong here ? Am I not supposed to brush the black stuff off ? Last edited by Mikeinnj; 11-06-2014 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Sp. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Texas: Where Bob Wills is still the king!
Posts: 354
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Evaporust is a rust remover. I would imagine that the black deposits are rust particles which have not been 'eaten' by the solution. I'd recommend scrubbing, then re-dipping for an additional 2 days or so.
I've found that a quick wash then force dry in an oven greatly reduces/delays flash rust - and where I live (Gulf coast) bare metal will flash rust within a few hours. Your de-rusted parts should be primed or painted as quickly as possible. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I agree with George and also think the product works better with more heat.
Is it possible to keep it closer to 90*? |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: New Mexico mountains
Posts: 30
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FRED K-OR, RE your 21 " wheel. I took my wire wheels to the powder coater in El Paso after straightening a few spokes and welding a few small cracks. They did all the sand blasting and powder coated them for $50 each. They look Awesome! Well worth the money...
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Thanks Roughrider. Yes power coating is great. I had all 5 of my 21 in wheels on my huckster powder coated and they looked great. But these are on my coupe and I was trying to get them painted for now and then maybe later get them power coated. The one I am working with was one that I have had around hear for years and I found it seemed to be straighter that the ones I am using. So I thought I would try to get the rust off of it and see what it looks like. Maybe the power coating will come later. Thanks for the comment.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#15 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 43
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Actually the black deposits are carbon from the steel. You should be able to just wipe it off.
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Pete - Orange County Model A Ford Club "If I asked people what they wanted they would have said faster horses." -Henry Ford |
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