12v starter relay connections query

[rrhorton]

The 31 coupe I purchased was not wired however the previous owner did convert some things to 12 volt neg ground. The generator was rewired with new cutout installed on top. The headlights were redone with quartz halogen bulbs. The starter switch was replaced with a non-locking type and the distributor was converted to 12v electronic. The starter was converted and a generic 4 lug starter relay was installed. My question is how to wire the starter and to provide power to the ammeter and interior lights. Also I need to know how wire in the start button on the column.

The starter relay has two big lugs on the side and a smaller "s" and "i" lug on the top. I know the positive cable from the battery goes to one big lug and the other big lug is attached to the starter solenoid. What comes next?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd guess the "S" is the starter switch and the "I" is for ignition bypass. Just connect 12 volts to the base and the S and see if it doesn't click.

[Rex_A_Lott]

As Tom says, normally the left one...picks it up, or closes the contacts, for it to start.
Just make sure the base is grounded good.
The fourth small pole is to bypass the resistor to the points, so that it cranks on 12V. You dont have to hook it up, but that is what it was there for in the original app. Good Luck !

[Bob C]

How about a picture of the non locking switch and the starter button
so we can see what you have.

Bob

[MikeK]

[tbirdtbird]

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Here we go again. Yes the "I" terminal is to bypass the ignition resistor when starting, so that the coil gets the full 12 volts for a good hot start. This is because at that time, the coils were all still 6 volt. Today some coils are actual 12 volt coils or have the resistor built in (I don't like that kind). It would be of tremendous help if you knew which type of coil you have. If you have a pure 6 Volt coil and do not use the ignition resistor (it is mounted in a small rectangular porcelain block), you will burn out the coil in fairly short order. To get a quick 12 V hit while starting will not harm a 6V coil, however.

Just because you have the bypass capability on the starter relay doesn't mean you have to use it. But you do need to know the operating voltage of the coil.

Whoops, never mind, you have full electronic dizzy; ignore what I said and ignore the "I" terminal.

Your ammeter wire (feed wire to the rest of the car) will hook to the same lug that the battery cable hooks to.

[rrhorton]

I have a 12v coil that came with the electronic ignition in the distributor. I do not have a start button yet but think that a spring button in/out switch is what to use. The ignition switch is an on/off keyed unit mounted in the speedometer panel with a red wire on one side and nothing on the other. How do I hook these up in the grand scheme of things?

[tbirdtbird]

hook the feed to the starter sw to the battery side of the ammeter. It is not necessary to run this thru the ammeter.
Hook all other accessory wires (lights, horn, the feed to the ign sw) to the other side of the ammeter. Trial and error to determine which side of ammeter is which. With car not running, and lights on, ammeter should show discharge.
Red wire of ign sw goes where? You need to know where it goes before continuing on

[Willie Krash]

To add to the discussion the resistor bypass is part of a rationale that starter current will break a battery down to (as much) 9.5v. Therefore when you lose 3.5v++ and are trying to develop 24KV every volt is precious, thus a 9V coil.
For general information purposes Ford used starter solenoids where the S wire went to ground, i.e the starter button went to ground. if one of the large lugs is marked BATT then you would ground S to energize the solenoid. It would be an A circuit in this case. Tractors mostly but something to be aware of...