The Shimmy is back..What now?

[Skeezixx]

After replacing the tie rod and ends (with new teflon innards), the drag link (also teflon cups), both steering arms and the pitman arm (all with new balls), and the radius rod cup rig (first the rubber ball then the original rig with a bent washer) I still once in a while get a pronounced shimmy while braking at low speeds.

What's left?

[BOSSY]

Did you reset the toe in?

[Mike V. Florida]

King pins?

[Jim Brierley]

How are your king pins ans wheel bearing adjustment? If all else fails, go to 16" radial tires.

[Rowdy]

Worn shackles and bushings, broken spring tie bolt. worn or loose wishbone ball and socket. Lots of things affect the front end. Rod

[Barry B./ Ma.]

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On a 30 tudor I worked on I found the front backing plates were loose. Someone had put in new hardware but only tightened the nuts to get the cotter pins in and they wern't tight so when you hit the brakes the front end shook.You never know, it pays to check.

[Tom Endy]

Check for a "spun" bearing race in either of the front hubs.

Tom Endy

[Glenn C.]

If you have excessively worn through bolt holes in the bottom of the bell housing, your steering will shimmy when braking. The holes should just have enough clearance for the bolts that hold the ball cups. With the vehicle stopped on level ground, watch underneath while you have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth.
Movement of the radius rod ball end, should be nill or very minimal at worst.

[allford]

check king pins and toe, either one will cause shimmy. If you changed tie rod ends then your only problem may be setting the toe. I made a measure stick and set my 1930 pick up. Not very diffucult.

[1931 flamingo]

Long shot, but recently had a shimmy in my other car and it was BACK tires.FWIW
Paul in CT

[Skeezixx]

I set the toe in at 1/16" as per Les Andrews book however using a tape measure and a groove in the thread it's a hit and miss proposition so I'll try that again.

I repacked the wheel bearings so I believe they are properly adjusted.

I never gave the backing plates a thought. I'll check them.

The king pins didn't exhibit any excessive wear when I tried to rattle them.

The wishbone quit making a clunking sound after I installed the original type cup with the recommended curved washer mod. And it seems to be operating properly.

I'll go over it all again. It's not inconceivable that I'm missing something.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

After replacing the tie rod and ends (with new teflon innards), the drag link (also teflon cups), both steering arms and the pitman arm (all with new balls), and the radius rod cup rig (first the rubber ball then the original rig with a bent washer) I still once in a while get a pronounced shimmy while braking at low speeds.

What's left?

As I have said many times before, improper toe in is the NUMBER 1 cause of shimmy. I recommend and set my toe in at 1/16 plus or minus 1/32. Any loosnes anywhere from the wheels to the steering box connection to the frame will contribut to shimmy. Good luck. Purdy D. Swoft.

[Kurt in NJ]

Could it be out of round drums?? --Did you reset the toe (alignment) after replacing parts?

Out of round drums usually is also felt as a pulsing in the brake pedal.

[Mitch//pa]

when you reset the toe did you ck it again rotating the wheels 180. alot of whhels give false readings cause of out of round.

[1931 flamingo]

Also back up From what you worked on and make sure pitman arm tight to the sector shaft and that the box itself is tight to the frame,, also how much slop in the strg box?
Paul in CT Is front spring bolt in one piece and in the hole in the frame, and are the U-bolts tight?

[spike]

if you have been running with the shimmy...how about moving those front tires to the rear and NOW TRY SETTING THE TOE IN AT 1/16....A STIRP OF MASKING TAPE ON EACH TIRE AND MAKE A MARK ON IT OR BOTH OF THEM - MEASURE IT IN THE REAR AND ROLL THE CAR AHEAD AND CHECK IT.... MAKE YOUR ADJUSTMENT AND TRY IT AGAIN AND YOU SHOULD GET IT RIGHT ON...GOOD LUCK....I am in the same boat right now.

[Skeezixx]

Both U Bolts were very loose! In fact, they were so loose that maybe I didn't need to rebuild the front end in the first place.

Gonna go for a spin and see how it feels without the ubolts rattlin' around.

[Purdy Swoft]

Take it to a front end alignment shop. setting correct toe in is probably best done professionaly.

[Skeezixx]

No good. Still shimmies when braking.

Toe in is spot on.
Backing plates tight
U bolts tight
New pitman arm tight
kingpins seem to be ok
R brake drum definitely out of round.
Tires have permanent flat spots from sitting up 33 years.

At this point, after almost two months chasing down this problem, the most expeditious avenue of approach is to take Purdy Swoft's advice and let the experts at the front end shop divine the mystery.

[john in illinois]

an out of round brake drum will cause shuddering or shimmy when you apply the brakes.. Since it does it when you brake,I would fix the drum. Good luck, sometimes these things are hard to pinpoint.