Front End Shake

[Cape Codder]

Went to New England meet this weekend and had a great time.
During tour and other places we drove front end started to shake a SLOW speed but as speed increased shake went away.
Noticed if I jerked steering wheel to left or right shake would go away.
Any ideas what is causing this?

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

[Franchise_24]

Sounds like the death wobble.

[Aok]

I had a similar problem after checking the usual problems with the various parts of the steering linkage . Eventually found one of the bolts that hold the steering box to the frame was loose.

[Mike]

Check spring perch nuts

mike

[H. L. Chauvin]

Humble short version:

1. Jack up front axle, & place on jack stands -- this is a must do.

2. Get a helper to turn steering wheel back & forth; and to rock tops & bottoms of front wheels while you watch & carefully test different things for "loose" motion -- this is also a must do.

3. Check "everything" you can find in "SEARCH", & "everything" you ever heard about; for example, front wheel bearings loose, king pins loose, steering loose, tie rod not adjusted, etc., etc. -- this is a must do.

4. When you find something that needs adjusting, repair it immediately -- this is a must do.

5. Then check again, like old people, we usually have more than one ailment -- if you are tired by now, wait until tomorrow to do it.

Hope this helps!

[Mitch//pa]

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do what H.L. mentioned which is good advice. also ck things on the ground by moving the steering wheel back and forth as the pressure of the tires on the ground can show up other things. ck for pitman arm to box (sector)play as this would show up with the weight on the ground.
make sure your wheel bearings are properly adjusted oh no

[FL&WVMIKE]

I had that "jitterbug" in my V8. I tightened my tie rod ends by 1/2 turn and it went away, to never return again.
MIKE

[Tom Cavallaro]

All of the above, and check alignment! When it happened to me after I rebuilt the entire front end...after doing the alignment...as smothe as silk
Tom

[jmeckel]

I agree do all of the above, on mine I found that the problem was the rubber radius ball had came apart (installed long before I purchased my A), the fix I choose was simple, installed a new rubber ball cover, cheap and fast.... Some day I will convert it back to the org. non-rubber cover, but for now I just want to drive it.

[Purdy Swoft]

Thats exactly what I would have done. I've been running the rubber ball setup since 1960. Its just reasonable that the rubber ball cover will need replacement after several years.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

do what H.L. mentioned which is good advice. also ck things on the ground by moving the steering wheel back and forth as the pressure of the tires on the ground can show up other things. ck for pitman arm to box (sector)play as this would show up with the weight on the ground.
make sure your wheel bearings are properly adjusted oh no

Ol' Dave's, "TUDOR FRUM HELL" had a side to side wobble at around 30 to 35 & went away above that. After Claude did what you describe above, he found that the nuts that hold the steering arms to the spindle was ever so SLIGHTLY LOOSE. SHAKING was gone after tightening them, REAL TIGHT! Those nuts are often overlooked! And just a slight abount of movement there can manifest itself into serious shaking/wobbling!
Claude learned his inspection procedure from doing Factory Safety Inspections on Ford Tractors, starting with the steering wheel nut & working his way down through the ENTIRE system, leaving NOTHING to chance & cheking the tightness of EVERY nut & bolt in the ENTIRE system. He also holds his hand on EACH connection as his assistant turns the steering wheel back & forth, SLOWLY & FIRMLY!!
This seems like a slow & painstaking procedure, but it leaves nothing "TO CHANCE" & YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO IT EVERY 2 WEEKS
(The letters on Dave's license plate, UWW, translated to, "YOU WIGGLE & WOGGLE"!----He's now searching for a plate that say's, "HMMM"!!
Bill W.
(Yes, Son, I saw your remark about wheel bearing adjustment!!---Are you a TROUBLEMAKER or SUMPTIN'??)

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON;
[B

(Yes, Son, I saw your remark about wheel bearing adjustment!!---Are you a TROUBLEMAKER or SUMPTIN'??)[/B]

it must be in the blood

[Greg Jones]

In addition to checking ALL steering parts, be sure to check the tightness of the radius ball arms where they fasten into the spindles. These are the forged arms with the balls on them. Take out the cotter pin and try to tighten up the nut. Even use a cheater to get it good and tight. I would venture to say that at least half the Model As on the road have these parts loose, leading to wheel wobble and hard handling.

[larrys40]

I agree with H.L. Check for play in king pins, tie rod ends, drag link, steering box, all bolts/nuts tight and cottered... any worn parts replaced/restored.
I am personally not a fan of the rubber ball.. I think it causes more issues than resolves. New original quality kits are available. See installation and spec in the service bulletins for sprint gap. Don't forget a little grease on the ball if you're using the original vs rubber ball.

Set toe in to 1/16 +/- 1/32nd with accurate toe in gauge. Ensure that steering box is adjusted properly. As with any parts.. if worn replace and restore all parts and components.
Good luck!
Larry Shepard

[kp]

First thing I would do is make sure air pressure in front tires is around 35 lbs.

[1930artdeco]

Mine does this and it has gotten worse this last weekend for some reason. But I will tighten the drag link and see if that fixes it for now. I have to replace the two arms with the balls on them that I know I have to do. But for now that will have to do.

Mike

[Cape Codder]

Well I am now armed with a list for what to check in a.m.
Had my own thoughts of what I was going to do but happy for what has been suggested.
MIKE - I would never had thought of the spring perch nuts. I can't believe they would be loose but none the less I WILL check them.
H.L. Chauvin - "Tie rod not adjusted" Is this done by turning in the end until the cotter pin will fit the end?
Mitch//pa - "wheel bearings are properly adjusted" Is this the same as when cleaning and greasing the bearings?
Tom Cavallaro - I have never done a front end alignment on my car so I will for sure do it.
larrys40 - I don't have the rubber ball on the wish bone but haven't lubed it either - so that is on my list
kp - all tires were checked prior to me going to the New England this weekend. Crazy but I had not had this problem before so do you think that it is the air I put in - 34psi?

Thanks to all and I will let you know what I find.

Cape Codder

[spdway1]

Who ever I was following out of Heritage Park on Saurday, they had a horrible wobble in the left front wheel. At the end of the narrow road out, you went left at the main rd, I went right the way we came in...Was this you? I think it was. I had a green 29 Pick up.

[Cape Codder]

spdway1 - I didn't take note of who was behind me but will look over the left front wheel first.
What I really don't understand about this problem is that it only happened a SLOW speed and went away when I increased the speed. I thought it would have been the opposite.

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

[Tom Endy]

The list of causes is extensive, among others, worn king pins, worn spindle balls, and loose and worn bearings. One that has not been mentioned is a spun front wheel bearing race. the normal repair for this is to find another front wheel hub that holds both races in a very tight interference press fit. I have heard that some suppliers offer a hub repair insert. This would require machining out the spun section of the hub and pressing in the repair seat that will accept the race as a press fit. I have not seen one or have any experience with one. It was easier for me to find another hub. However you then have to have the brake drum removed from the old hub (without damaging it) and swaged onto the replacement hub (without damaging it). Then have the drum turned for it to be concentric to the hub.

Tom Endy