1929 Model A motor froze-up

[BetsyModelA]

Anyone know how to "unfreeze" a motor?

[ronn]

Many solutions-

50% trans fluid and 50% kerosene mix
poor down each cylinder and rock car gently in 3rd gear-don't force it.
this can take awhile-let it soak for a week or two before rocking.

[Clem Clement]

Sometimes air pressure on the jug that can move down

[RonC]

Don't forget to inspect or replace your timing gear as it may gt damaged

[Chris in CT]

Hi Betsy, How did it fetch up? From disuse for a long period of time? Just after a long hot ride? Low oil? Over a winter? Have you got some more information for us?
It will affect the advice we give you...

[BetsyModelA]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thank you for that helpful hint.

[BetsyModelA]

This Model A Ford Pickup has stood indoors unused for about 30 years. Rodents did a number on the upholstering and some of the wiring. The motor, starter, transmission is all intact. But, the motor is locked solid. The dipstick registers oil, perhaps not much, but some. There is old gas in the gas tank that I will need to drain and replace with new. My first priority is to unlock the motor.
Thank you all for your interest and help. My husband is not a mechanic, and I am not as well. We are retired, and I'd love to drive old Betsy again.

[BetsyModelA]

Clem, Not sure what a "jug" is. As I've stated, I'm not a mechanic, and have just now taken the interest to be my own "fixer."

[Terry, NJ]

Nobody's mentioned it yet, but Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO) is excellent for unsticking engines. Auto. Trans fluid mixed with (50/50) acetone is good too. In all cases, Use several oz. and let it splash down on the valves. It must sit a few days. Next, after you get it turning freely, It's scraping the rust off the cam etc and there are very abrasive rust particles in the oil. It is important that the oil be drained and replaced. Use a cheap oil because after it runs for a few hours, drain it again. This time use a better quality oil.
But before all this take place, check the coolant. Is there any coolant? If not, where did it go? Not in the crankcase I hope. Was it drained as it was put away? Please don't feel you're bothering us with your questions. We're here to help.
Terry

[Terry, NJ]

Aircraft Mechanics call the Cylinders, Jugs. The replaceable cylinder on an aircraft engine sort of resembles a Jug. The term kinda spills over into the automotive jargon too.
Terry

Originally Posted by BetsyModelA

Clem, Not sure what a "jug" is. As I've stated, I'm not a mechanic, and have just now taken the interest to be my own "fixer."

[BetsyModelA]

Truly appreciate your advice.
Thank you, Terry, for your suggestion of MMO. I figure if one solution doesn't work, it is good to have a back-up to try.
The pickup has sat in a shed so has had to contend with freezing winters. The radiator has a mixture of antifreeze and water, so the radiator is not dry. I can't see the level of water in the radiator, so must not have much in it. I have been hesitant to drain it for fear of something going bad with it in the winter. Any suggestions there?
And, again, thank you all for your fine attempt to help me. I'm going shopping at a automotive store for product this week.

[Joe K]

I would use plain water and only during the summer. Some add a water pump lubricant/water conditioner which I haven't tried - but that makes sense.

Anti-freeze is notorious for finding it's way past any gasket - and possibly into your cylinders. The low coolant level may be an indication of this. Bet you find the problem in the cylinders.

Joe K

[Ted Duke]

Betsy,

I suggest you go to one or both of the below websites and find out where your nearest Model A Ford club is and call them and join. Great bunch of people who will welcome you and help you getting the old Ford running. And keep asking for help here, another great bunch of folks.

Ted

http://www.mafca.com/chapters_list.html

or

http://modelarestorers.org/newsmanag...%204-20-13.pdf

[Terry, NJ]

Betsy, A couple of more things. I should have made it clear that you spill/pour whatever you're going to use to loosen the engine, down the spark plug holes. Try to splash it onto the valves. The stems of which get sticky over the years of not running.
About the coolant, It should be just below the brass plate in the radiator. There is a hole in this plate, stick a pencil through and see if it comes out wet.
Another Tip. 6 volt batteries are not the easiest things to find anymore. Go to your local Tractor Supply and they'll have one for you. The Mod A takes a Group one Battery, get a charger too, you'll need it. (unless you already have one) The ford electrical system is a plus + ground. That means the Plus + side gets connected to the cable from the frame. Modern cars, from the 1950s are all Negative - grounded. It'll will all start to makes sense after a while. Terry

[restorizer]

Ddon't take a chance destroying valuable parts?! Remove starter, drive belt, drain the fluids and gently remove the head, then theoil pan. If there's no corrosion, rodent nests, etc. then spray and soak it down with WD-40 or the like.

[Reds34]

It wouldn't hurt to post your location, someone may live nearby that may be willing to stop by and give you a hand.

Red

[glenn in camino]

If the problem is rust, Kroil does amazing things to rusted parts.

[Tom in SW VA]

Marvel Mystery Oil will do the trick!!!

[BetsyModelA]

MMO worked wonders. It loosed things, but caused a lot of smoke when Betsy started. Main thing, she started.

[700rpm]

Did this thread get trimmed? It used to be about 12 pages, no?