gas leak a danger?

[ehaddad]

Hi,
Today the car would not start. I now have gas leaking from the ferrule at the sediment bowl and the carb between the top and bottom. I also had a small pool of gas that dripped from the tail pipe. How dangerous is this?
I'd like to keep working safely.(sorry if this is a dumb rookie question)
Thanks,
Ed

[msmaron]

ehhhh Gas....is always dangerous..Shut off the fuel line, open the garage door and get that ferrule TIGHT and secure OR get a new gas line and replace it...

[QGolden]

Sounds like to much choke is being applied to start the motor and you are "flooding" the engine with fuel. Only use the choke for one or two engine revolutions. How much are you opening the GAV?

[msmaron]

actually the ferrule is what concerns me,. Might have split the line and that is why the leak, check that out for sure and are you quite sure you have gas coming our of the tail pipe or just water from moisture?

[QGolden]

Mark is absolutly correct, first priority, the fuel leaks must be sorted out. I was referring to the gas from the exhaust pipe.

[ehaddad]

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Pretty sure I flooded the engine ( too much GAV) trying to get it going. It sure smelled like gas coming from the tail pipe, about 2 ounces accumulated. Ferrule was fine before I cleaned the sediment bowl.

[msmaron]

Tighten the ferrule slowly till taught, when tight turn on the gas to check for leaks, IF leaking try to tighten more, IF it does not stop remove and replace it.. Then if okay start the engine and ONLY pull the choke 1 or 2 times and let it go!! that should start the engine.

[QGolden]

After you ID the leaks, you should not need to open the GAV more than one turn to start it. Spark advance all the way up, Pull down the throttle lever to 3 oclock or so, pull the choke, crank the engine one revolution, let off the choke, crank it again. After it starts, throttle lever back up to idle and back off the GAV a half turn and fine tune from there on the road.

[brum1]

Don't chance driving with the leaks-simple fixes just not worth the risk

[ehaddad]

I tightened it up and put the gas on. This caused gas to leak on to the fire wall behind the bowl. It stopped when I turned the gas off, but gas still drips down the fuel line.

[QGolden]

Do you have Les' book on service? Seems like you need to do a PM on the sediment bowl and adjacent fittings. Probably a good time for gaskets and maybe a fuel line as well. Not a lot of money or time, but pretty important.

[ehaddad]

I have the book. Thanks to all for the advice and patience. This site is a blessing for a first time Model A owner.

Ed

[1931 flamingo]

There's got to be a club nearby and possibly other A owners??
Paul in CT

[Tom Wesenberg]

Do you have the cast iron sediment bowl, or the glass?

Wipe up any gas with a rag and store the rag outside until it's dry.

If you have the glass bowl, you may need a new gasket. Also check things over for cracks. My brass fitting had a fine crack on the inside line where it screws into the cast iron bowl. I had to make a new fitting and solder it onto the line.

[Tom Endy]

The ferrule on each end of the fuel line is what creates the seal. When first installed it is crushed into the shape of the casting in the front and the retaining nut in the back.

Proper procedure (such as in government mil-spec) dictates that you should replace the ferrule each time you remove the fuel line. On a Model A this is not practical or necessary.

I remove the fuel line from my Vic numerous times as I use it to road test Zenith carburetors I overhaul\restore. My Vic is an indented fire wall with a side bowl carburetor. Most of the carburetors I road test are standard Zeniths. For this reason I have two fuel lines. One is to accommodate the indented fire wall and a side bowl. The other is one I bent such that it will deliver fuel from the indented fire wall to a standard Zenith.

Each time I remove and install a carburetor I take the time to wrap each end of either fuel line with white Teflon plumbers tape. I give it four wraps and twist it tightly. The tape only covers the ferrule. I am careful not to get it over the end of the fuel line and block the flow of fuel. I have found that this procedure provides a very good seal to an otherwise molested ferrule.

There are folk who will argue and say you should never use white Teflon tape on a Zenith. While this may be true in other areas of the carburetor I have found that this procedure provides a very good fuel line seal and does not cause any problems with the function of the carburetor.

Tom Endy

[Napa Skip]

How dangerous is a gas leak? Consider that:

Getting hit by a 100 mph fastball will release about 2.3 kW of energy;

A .357 Magnum (150 grain slug at 1000 fps) hitting a steel plate will release about 12,500 kW;

A 60 mph 3000 lb auto hitting a concrete wall will release about 2,100 kW;

The energy released by 1 cup of gasoline (fully vaporized) is about 3,200,000 kW.

Fixing a gas leak sounds like the way to go.

Btw, 1 lb of generic high explosive will release about 240,000,000 kW, the same as exploding about 5 gallons of fully vaporized gasoline.

[Source: "Table of Comparative Energies" by Jim Lux, Copyright 1997]

[eagle]

One thing people forget is an oil leak on a hot manifold or exhaust pipe is much more dangerous than a gas leak. Gasoline will evaporate at a lower temperature than it will ignite. Oil will ignite before it evaporates. Not that a gas leak isn't in need of repair RIGHT NOW, but oil is worse.

[ehaddad]

Thanks for all the great feedback!
After draining gas, I took the glass bowl off, removed the fuel line, and removed the carb. Parts on order. I appreciate the support.
Ed