Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34

[34 fordor owner]

This is the starter that I’m working with and going to take off but before I do so I want to make sure I’m going to do it right. All I’m seeing that holds the starter on is the two bolts that use seen in the picture? Remove those two and it comes out?

I believe the cable is good but I will give it a thorough check to be sure. Also, I am getting 6.5volts all across now. Switch to input and output of resistor. Not going to attempt to start it again until I look at this starter and get the slow turn over fixed or better than 3 volts to the starter.

[slowforty]

I had faulty ignition resistor that would fail intermittantly. Jumper it and see what happens.
I would change the ignition resistor.

[tubman]

The two bolts you are referring to do indeed hold the starter on. They are very long and also hold it together. Be careful when you remove the starter as it can easily come apart. If it does, getting the brushes back in their holders can be a pain. Actually, that starter looks like it could stand a little attention, so it will have to come apart eventually. While it's out, I would replace the bushings and brushes and check the armature. You need a LARGE soldering iron to install the brushes.

You do not have the bracket that goes between the end of the generator and the pan rail bolts because you car is pre 1937.

[cas3]

Thats one of the starters with the thick end plate and shorter motor housing. I'm not sure the origin of those, but I like to use the starters with the full length motor as it may be a little stronger IMHO

[koates]

The starter shown in the picture is correct for 33-34. You dont need any longer one but only need that one to be clean inside with all good brushes and bushes and a smooth commutator. Brush end needs a good clean ground where it buts up against the field housing and likewise where it all mounts against the oil pan. Some prior experience in overhauling these starters would be helpful, as there are other things to know. Everything needs to be correct to make them crank well. Tricks of the trade as they say. Regards, Kevin.

[Terry,OH]

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Your photo shows the red insulation on the starter motor cable discolored. This could be a sign of a poor cable connection under the burned spot where the wire enter the termination. Your voltage reading at the starter motor with the motor running should be very low not high. Suggest use an ohmmeter to read the resistance of the cable from the starter switch to the motor, should be nearly zero ohms. Could also use a voltmeter on the cable and read voltage from the starter switch to the motor with the motor running, should be near zero volts.

[34 fordor owner]

Starting this post back up after a few months of down time but in that time here’s what I’ve done.
-New 6v battery
-New battery cables correct gauge and grounding strap for better ground
-New switch to starter cable also correct gauge
-New ignition resistor
-New condenser
With that I’m getting good voltage readings all around. Checked spark on head bolts and got spark. Attempted to get a start and..nothing. A few sputters like it wanted to but no success. Unsure on my next move so I would like to know what all of the pros have to say any ideas?? I’m contemplating on a stromberg efire maybe it’s a timing issue? I have dome distributor that was rebuilt by Skip Haney and it ran in the past on that.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Compression was a little low cold but pretty consistent.

How low is the compression?

Remove plugs and squirt some oil down each cylinder to increase compression...

[rockfla]

Are you having a voltage "drop" at the coil while the car is cranking??

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Are you having a voltage "drop" at the coil while the car is cranking??

I have a “Hotwire” that I have tried from the battery to the coil when trying to start as well to rule this out still no start. I will recheck compression.

[Seth Swoboda]

I would rather slam my hand in a car door than use an Efire distributor. Why? 6 volt requires very good grounds. Anything electronic will not tolerate poor voltage or voltage spikes.

All it takes is spark and fuel. You are not getting one or the other. Pull a plug wire and hold it near a head nut. Turn the eninge over to see what kind of spark you have. If no spark start working your way backwards to the distributor and on.

If you have spark try to prime the carburetor with some gas or 2 cycle gas and oil mix. If you have spark it should try to start. Even if it does not run well or want to idle you should get some fire if it has spark. Then you can determine if your distributor needs work or if the carburetor needs attention.

Have you had the distributor off and rebuilt and timed by one of the reputable rebuilders? Have you lightly cleaned the points if the engine sat idle for months or years?

Even if you have some sticky valves it should run, it would pop back through the carburetor if that was the case or if you had a lean fuel condition.

[rockfla]

To "expand" on Seth's post above AND to reiterate what Peethoovie stated


It takes "spark" "Fuel" & "Compression"


From the sound of it, its pretty confident that spark is not the issue, with that said, I might snag a "second" condenser (depending on your source of them) as new ones are not prone to either be bad or go bad quickly.......A compression test will certainly tell Us more......SO......have you checked your fuel supply???? Are you confident you are getting quality supply of gas???

[34 fordor owner]

I rehooked up my temp tank to ensure I’m getting fuel but when I hit the starter button it’s not spinning over fast enough. Got 6v at the starter button but clearly not making it to the starter. It was popping a little so maybe with more turn power it would start up. Guess my starter switch is finally given out. I have taken it off 3 times now and cleaned the contacts and no success there. I’m going to look at getting one of those and then pick up again.

[Bob C]

Have you checked the voltage at the starter when cranking?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Have you checked the voltage at the starter when cranking?

I did, when my helper pushed the starter button I got nothing at the starter unless it was pushed at the right spot even then it only got about 2 volts to the starter.

[Terry,OH]

Big voltage drop from ignition switch to the resistor! Get that fixed. 6V systems like clean and tight electrical terminals and clean contacts.

[rockfla]

Stop at the local parts store and get you a tube of DiElectric grease. Start at all of your connections and remove them, clean them and put a light skim of DiElectric grease on ALL of your connections and you will never have to worry about a "good" positive (and Negative) connection. As you know. make sure ALL your "grounds" are nice and clean and solid!!!

[34 fordor owner]

Only loosing about 1 volt to the resistor now. Ordered a new starter switch should be here Monday and that should fix the not turning over issue. Getting 5.9 volts to the starter switch and hit the button, nothing no voltage or very low at the starter. The starter switch gets very hot to the touch. Will touch back when I get the switch in. Apologies for not being very mechanically inclined!!

[Flathead Fever]

I was a fleet mechanic for 30-years. Like others have said check the available voltage at the battery both with it "not cranking" and while it's cranking. If it's okay the next thing is your voltage is dropping too much at the coil. You want to check the voltage at the distributor with the primary wire to the coil "disconnected". Unless you know that the points are "both open", it easier to just disconnect the wire and check the voltage. When the points are opening and closing you will get the average voltage, not the available voltage to the coil, it's just easier to disconnect the wire and then check the voltage. You should have close to the battery voltage here when you "have bypassed" the resistor. You might have other problems too, but I would start with that.

[koates]

Dont even think about any type of electronic ignition for your original 6 volt 34 flathead. The original twin points distributor is an excellent and reliable unit. You say you have spark at the plugs so why the concentration on the ignition system ? Spark plugs have not been mentioned and can be troublesome with modern fuels. Recommend you fit NEW plugs and run fresh fuel. Old plugs do give quite a bit of trouble especially on starting. Regards, Kevin.