Getting ready to swap engines

[CarlG]

Nice safety wire job !

[Art Newland]

I think you can learn to do almost anything on YouTube!

[Art Newland]

I'm going to make myself a Wesenberg-ish clutch finger adjustment tool, get it all adjusted and I think it'll be ready to go back in the car!

[jm29henry]

Your doing great love the pics

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I've watched most of Jack's videos. I like the "down home" approach he uses. Here's a ink to his YouTube channel if anyone wants to check it out.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtE...c2A6xZByMr2A9g

Here is a picture of the front motor mount springs that were in the car. It had float-a-motor rear mounts, so maybe this was part of the FAM package? Has rubber inserted up in the springs as well, the rubber is now more like petrified wood.

That front motor mount is a poorly engineered reproduction mount from 1950s / 1960s. Generally it raises the front of engine much too high. The springs were too strong so engine sits too high.

As a result the crank will not align with crank pulley nut. These were sold by j c Whitney and others. Would be better buy the correct front mount.

Berts and other suppliers have them. A swap meet part of similar design will have similar problem.

Similar problem with Float a motors installed as rear mounts. The engine may not be at the correct angle.

[Boston Bruce]

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Recently I bought a new repro front engine mount from Bratton's. I had to take 2 1/2 turns off of the springs that go on the top of the mount. After I did that everything fit correctly. The reproduction springs are too stiff. YMMV

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I spent a goodly amount of time today trying to square up the flywheel cover today. There were no shims in it when I took it apart. I bought a set of shims months ago when I first read that improper alignment of the flywheel housing could contribute to vibrations. Anyway, I should have bought more than one set. The shims from Bratton's measured .0085" thick. Since I didn't want to wait a week or more for more shims I cut some from the only thing I could find handy... a diet Coke can.
I ended up with a .024 shim pack to get under the .006 recommended in Les' book. Seems excessive, maybe time to start looking for another flywheel cover?

I love it - now 50 years from now when the next guy takes it apart hes gonna chuckle at seeing parts of a diet coke can as a shim I think I only had to use 2 shims under each side to square mine up - I dont remember seeing any on the original engine when I disassembled it...I think those 2 shims I got lucky and got around .001 out so I left it.

I like your steps and careful planning - this is going to make the car seem like a completely different animal for the better.

Before you go to drop it in run a tap in the flywheel cover motor mount bolt holes. I like to sand a little taper in the last thread of the bolts so it kind of self aligns to reinstall it. Also its much easier to know now if you need to borrow/make a frame spreader so get out the ol tape measure and measure between the rear mounts to see how much space you have. Another tip is to coat the rear motor mount mating surface with a thin film of grease to let the engine slip right in - you dont want to force anything installing it and get hung up. Then you play the game of is it the input shaft splines misaligned or motor mounts stuck?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I'm going to make myself a Wesenberg-ish clutch finger adjustment tool, get it all adjusted and I think it'll be ready to go back in the car!

Thanks Art, here's a picture of the tool, and a link to the thread about it.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...homemade+tools

[Art Newland]

The front motor mount it's self I believe is a correct Ford part according to this picture;
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/afrontmounts.htm
And I do have a re-pro stock hardware for it. The worst part of the coke can shims is that the material is only .004" thick. So it has one proper shim and four coke can shims on each side. I would've went to NAPA and bought some proper shim material but there is a bunch of snow on the ground. I am planning on making sure all the bolt holes/threads are in good shape, those rear motor mount bolts aren't particularly easy to get at. I am a little worried about the frame spreader aspect of the job, I replaced the rubber on the rear mounts, they are bound to be thicker than the petrified and cracking old ones...

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

The front motor mount it's self I believe is a correct Ford part according to this picture;
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/afrontmounts.htm
And I do have a re-pro stock hardware for it. The worst part of the coke can shims is that the material is only .004" thick. So it has one proper shim and four coke can shims on each side. I would've went to NAPA and bought some proper shim material but there is a bunch of snow on the ground. I am planning on making sure all the bolt holes/threads are in good shape, those rear motor mount bolts aren't particularly easy to get at. I am a little worried about the frame spreader aspect of the job, I replaced the rubber on the rear mounts, they are bound to be thicker than the petrified and cracking old ones...

you would be surprised - hence the measuring. It may only need to be moved out a 1/16" if at all - I had 1/8" gap between mine with new pads and new to me mounts. If its close I'd just lube them up and it should spread itself and drop in. Always helps to have an extra set of hands/eyes when installing an engine. Whatever you do keep your fingers away from pinch points! Then afterwards have the celebratory beer

[Art Newland]

I have willing helpers... IF IT WOULD JUST QUIT SNOWING!!!

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

...Then afterwards have the celebratory beer

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I have willing helpers... IF IT WOULD JUST QUIT SNOWING!!!

For two celebratory beers I'll brave the snow.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

For two celebratory beers I'll brave the snow.

How about a diet coke... just in case I need more shims?

[Tom Wesenberg]

The last couple engine installs I did was with Snyder's rubber rear mount kit, and the fit was perfect.
The engine slid into place without needing a spreader.
I always use a light coat of grease on the mounts to help the engine slide in.

[Art Newland]

After much groaning and gnashing of teeth, it's in!

[Art Newland]

Spent some time putting bits and pieces back together. I installed the front mount and like everyone else says the reproduction springs aren't the correct size. This is so ludicrous, something so simple that ends up wasting a lot of time. And even cut to the proper length, they aren't right. Anyone got a line on springs that are more the correct size? I looked around the vendors on line, looks like they all sell the same one.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Spent some time putting bits and pieces back together. I installed the front mount and like everyone else says the reproduction springs aren't the correct size. This is so ludicrous, something so simple that ends up wasting a lot of time. And even cut to the proper length, they aren't right. Anyone got a line on springs that are more the correct size? I looked around the vendors on line, looks like they all sell the same one.

I got mine from Mike's, but like you said, they are probably all the same. Mine worked fine, however. No problem. I think you helped install them in my car. What is wrong with the ones you have?

BTW, Hardware Sales has a big spring assortment if you want to try them.

[Art Newland]

Take a look here;
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm

To get the crank to line up, the springs had to be completely compressed.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Take a look here;
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm

To get the crank to line up, the springs had to be completely compressed.

I'll check mine tomorrow. Could be they are compressed also.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I think the last set I used came from Bratton's and it worked fine. Tightening the bottom spring will pull the top down, but you shouldn't have to collapse the springs too much.