Installing distributor bushings-without "tools"

[Fred K-OR]

Good idea also Daveymc29. I will give it a try after I get the bushings in the body. If for some reason I can't get the job done that way, a friend of mine has a reamer that would do the .5 reaming.

[redmodelt]

Originally Posted by daveymc29

Run a saw down the center of a 1/4 inch dowel (wood) and make a reamer by inserting a piece of crocus cloth or your favorite wet or dry sand paper. Chuck it up in your hand drill and carefully use it to fit the shaft to the bushings. Go easy and quit reaming when the shaft turns freely but doesn't rock in the hole. In other words, check progress often, don't rush it. No special tools needed and you probably already own all the stuff to create the reamer.

Read and follow the above if you do it that way he makes a good point.

The bushing in the distributor need to be in alignment and fit good without being too tight. Any miss alignment will effect the inter-cylinder firing and point gap. This is why you are replacing the bushings/shaft in the first place. Another thing to check is how the plate fits around the collar at the center, if it too loose that will also effect the points.

[H. L. Chauvin]

I bought a new distributor reamer years ago ..... glad I did.

Your intimating using your friend's reamer for "assuring" that both bushings are perfectly "aligned" sounds like more of a problem free, "Do-It-Once-In-A-Lifetime" Model A distributor solution.

But, again, just one humble opinion.

[Bruce_MO]

Yep... I pressed the new ones in with a vise, and used a wooden dowel and wet/dry sandpaper to get a snug fit. It didn't take long at all. Obviously, wash the bushing & housing well afterward.

[Tom Endy]

The biggest obstacle facing a successful distributor rebuild is the very good chance of cracking the housing. They generally crack around the top bushing as the metal is very thin there. If I find a housing cracked I discard it as it is no longer usable.

When removing the old bushings it is best to split them with a hack saw blade then it is an easy task to twist them out with long nose pliers. If you try to press them out, you stand a good chance of cracking the housing. During service a crud line forms between the two bushings that is made up of dried lubricant and wear particles. The crud will compact during the pressing out process and this will crack the housing.

When installing new bushings I make sure the housing is thoroughly clean and both the housing tunnel and the bushings are well lubricated. I use an insertion tool and press them both in from the bottom as this will ensure the top bushing is lined up properly as it approaches the top where it is prone to crack.

The bushings then need to be reamed in line to make sure both bushings are lined up correctly.

If you don't own an insertion tool and a reamer you stand a good chance of cracking the housing. In this case it would be prudent to take advantage of Bratton's offer of an exchange housing for $40. It comes bead blasted, painted, new bushings installed and reamed, and a new shaft and sleeve fitted. Part number 16990.

Tom Endy

[Fred K-OR]

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Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

Fred, You could try using a piece of 3/8 inch all-thread, ( threaded rod available at local hardware stores) and a washer and a nut on each end.

Be sure the inner surface of the distributor housing is really clean and use some oil on it and on the all-thread threads. It helps to put a slight chamfer on the end of the bushing. The trick is to start the bushing completely straight, relative to the distributor surface.

If you do not have a reamer, you could "burnish" the installed bushings with an old distributor shaft chucked in a drill press.

Just to update you all on this project. I did use the 3/8 inch bolt idea and did get both bushings in the body. I then had a friend ream out the bushings so that the shaft fits perfectly-spins freely and does not have any play in the bushings/shaft.

But now I have another problem where I may have messed up again. I put shaft in the body, put the fiber washer between the bottom of the body and the shaft sleeve and put in the shaft pin. Now the shaft will turn very hard and it is almost impossible to turn by hand. It does turn but is very hard to turn. Will the fiber washer eventually wear so that it will turn easy? Or should I pull the shaft pin and remove the fiber washer? Can anyone give this messed up guy some advise as to what to do from here? Please be kind to this messed up character.

[RonC]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Just to update you all on this project. I did use the 3/8 inch bolt idea and did get both bushings in the body. I then had a friend ream out the bushings so that the shaft fits perfectly-spins freely and does not have any play in the bushings/shaft.

But now I have another problem where I may have messed up again. I put shaft in the body, put the fiber washer between the bottom of the body and the shaft sleeve and put in the shaft pin. Now the shaft will turn very hard and it is almost impossible to turn by hand. It does turn but is very hard to turn. Will the fiber washer eventually wear so that it will turn easy? Or should I pull the shaft pin and remove the fiber washer? Can anyone give this messed up guy some advise as to what to do from here? Please be kind to this messed up character.

For one the fiber washer goes on the top NOT the bottom as shown in various parts catalogs. The purpose of the washer is to prevent oil from working its way into the distributor and getting on the point contacts. Think of this why wouldn't you want engine oil to work its way to the bushings. The fiber washer on the bottom will prevent lubricating the bushings. There were no steel washers used by Ford. If still tight you need to file the collar to get proper end play. Ford specified .004-.010 end play. Also you need to ream new bushings or your distributor can seize.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks RonC. Looks like I need to remove the shaft pin and shaft sleeve and put the fabric washer on the top. What I may have messed up on it getting the upper bushing all the way into the body and thus it keeps the shaft to high and thus has no end play.

I did have the new bushings reamed so that the shaft turned freely. But with the fabric washer on the shaft is where I had the problem of getting the shaft to turn freely and there is no end play. Well back to the old work bench to start over again. Learning is tuff and hard on new parts!

[RonC]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Thanks RonC. Looks like I need to remove the shaft pin and shaft sleeve and put the fabric washer on the top. What I may have messed up on it getting the upper bushing all the way into the body and thus it keeps the shaft to high and thus has no end play.

I did have the new bushings reamed so that the shaft turned freely. But with the fabric washer on the shaft is where I had the problem of getting the shaft to turn freely and there is no end play. Well back to the old work bench to start over again. Learning is tuff and hard on new parts!

After you reassemble it you may still have to file the collar to get the proper end play. Some of the repro collars are tight

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks again guys. Looks like I was to much in a hurry to get this thing put together. I now will need to get a new sleeve pin and start over. Thanks for the good ideas.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Thanks again guys. Looks like I was to much in a hurry to get this thing put together. I now will need to get a new sleeve pin and start over. Thanks for the good ideas.

A roll pin is easy to install and can be reused.

[Willie Krash]

Reaming can be done with an old dist. shaft. Just score it with a lathe bit and have at it. Split the difference it you have too and take a little off the shaft.

[Fred K-OR]

Well just another update. I did get the shaft installed with some end play to the body. I did grind down the sleeve so that I would get the end play. Shaft turns well so went on to the next steps.

Put in mostly new parts. The only old parts I used were the body and the upper and lower plates. Everything else is new even the lower plate pig tail wire!

What a challenge. I messed up a couple of things but with the help of you guys, finally got it finished. I have never completely rebuilt a distributor before so guess now I am an "expert" (Ha) in this area.

Thanks for all of you sticking with me through this ordeal. I posted below a picture of the bolt method I used to get the bushings in and a picture of the final product. I thought I would finish up this thread so that maybe, someone else might benefit from my blundering through this project. Thanks again.

[Mikeinnj]

Nice job on the rebuild Fred. The best way of learning is by doing, combined with the knowledge available both here on the Ford Barn Forum and the meny "How To" Model A Publications. Congratulations !

[Fred K-OR]

The real test will be when I put it in my Coupe to see if it runs. But that ain't agona happen tilt the weather gets better. Live on a gravel road and this is rainy Oregon.