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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Upstate New York
Posts: 1,209
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Missed a photo for post #245:
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AL in NY |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 438
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Speedo won't need calibration with the F150 overdrive because the speedometer is driven off the drive shaft. A change in rear end ratio would require a calibration change.
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 444
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However a Ford Falcon speedo cable fitted perfectly. Also, with the 42% overdrive the speedo reads 75mph when the car is doing 62mph (100kph in NZ) |
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#4 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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Quote:
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club Last edited by CarlG; 02-21-2017 at 04:00 PM. |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lanexa, VA
Posts: 15
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I realize this is an ancient thread on the T170FT RTS. No where does anyone talk about shortening the output shaft for the torque tube adapter plate and universal. Are you all buying a kit that has the output shaft splined and cut and then re assembled back into the case? I understand that the torque tube, driveshaft, and radius arms need to be shortened. Any info appreciated on shortening the output shaft or does someone sell an already modified shaft? I have the 27% OD trans. Like to put it in my 30 Tudor.
Thanks, j |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Highland, CA
Posts: 207
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Quote:
I did have a little bit of a setback (literally yesterday). I pulled the torque tube, driveshaft, and pinion, and well, see the pictures. I wasn't expecting to have to rebuild the rear end. It wasn't making any noise so I only expected to have to shorten the driveshaft. For those wondering it is possible to create the "Goldilocks" ratio (I'll be documenting how) but I think I have the only 2 gearsets, on the planet Earth, to do it. ☺ Last edited by MALAK; 05-10-2021 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Added Pic |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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I bought the complete kit with all the machine work already done. All I had to do was just bolt it in.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: St. Augustine, Fl.
Posts: 438
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Rather than have shorten the torque tube and drive shaft, would the open drive shaft kit be an option? Just asking. Speedway motors has them, Part #9191111. John
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IN GOD WE TRUST - SEMPER FIDELIS John ![]() |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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Shortened drive shaft, torque tube, & radius rods all came in the kit. Open drive line was never a consideration.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: St. Augustine, Fl.
Posts: 438
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Thanks, John
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IN GOD WE TRUST - SEMPER FIDELIS John ![]() |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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Message sent to your eMail
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,410
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To go open drive, it takes more than just modification of the rear axle input. The rear axle will need suspension components to allow it to move but stay in the right place. This generally takes a new set of stronger radius rods to include a strong torque arm or a set of semi-elliptic leaf springs to hold the axle in position. This adds a lot of work to this type of modification. Keeping the old buggy type transverse spring saves a lot of further modification if a person can find the right machine shop, drive shaft shop, or kit fabricator to modify parts to work a torque tube.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denville NJ
Posts: 975
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I am trying to remove the tower on my OD trans, and wondered dose the trans need to be in any particular gear to take the tower off? I have it in neutral , but cant get the forks to clear. thanks.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: The Moon
Posts: 999
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I remember someone mentioning the trans had to be in reverse? But I could be wrong because I'm not sure. But I do remember it had to be in gear.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,410
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T-170 RTS hard parts are not easy to come by. Folks generally have to purchase a whole used transmission and hope the parts are still good.
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#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
Posts: 2,091
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That’s my understanding as well. I have one in my Victoria, and parts (like gears) seem scarce. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Highland, CA
Posts: 207
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By total random chance, I got lucky and found a brand new cluster, the one needed to make the Goldilocks ratio, mis-listed on eBay as a Jeep cluster; none of the Jeep versions of this trans had OD. I could tell by the seller's pic and the relative size of the gears on the cluster that it was NOT a Jeep cluster. Had him send me a tooth count and sure enough, it was the 31-34-23-15 Ford OD cluster, and I got it for $90 ![]() With this cluster and OD the gear the ratios are: 1st = 3.01 2nd = 1.78 3rd = 1.00 4th = .79 = 27.0% As far as parts are concerned it seems half the battle is knowing what you're looking for and the other half chance (luck). Tom Last edited by MALAK; 05-11-2021 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Added info |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Monson, MA
Posts: 167
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Don't forget about the T170's ugly sister SROD she may not be as sexy but she shares a lot of the same internals.
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#19 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 25
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MALAK,
Any information how you "made" the 19t gear? I think I am close to being down to the OD gear to build the "Goldilocks" ratio transmission to have all the parts. Thanks again for your help. RH |
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#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Highland, CA
Posts: 207
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The Jeep input shaft is bored-out and parted off leaving only the gear and cone clutch/splines. The donor gear is turned down producing a shouldered sleeve that is pressed into the bored-out Jeep gear. I could have just made the sleeve but chose to use a gear as a donor because it already has the critical dimensions (length and ID) and metallurgy needed. Here's a photo album of the process. There's a couple pics that show the bushing with a spacer washer. This was only needed as I miscalculated the depth of the shoulder on the bushing. If I made another one I'd just make the shoulder that much thicker and not need the little washer. As a bonus, the last 3 pics show the repurposing of what was left of the Jeep input shaft. The bearing and seal areas are perfect for making a tool for driving the Model A rear axle shaft seals. If you click on the pics to show the pic info, there are descriptions on most of the pics https://photos.app.goo.gl/HNpewbYbRsrd3Eoe6 Last edited by MALAK; 09-12-2022 at 01:07 PM. |
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