The Ford Barn

Brother Hesekiel · 12-07-2014, 08:48 PM

The son of a Swedish father and a German mother, I grew up in places with horrible weather year round, ranging from 280 days of rain per year up to harsh winters lasting several months. It's one of the reasons why I live in California now.

I won't write an essay on what we've done in the old days to keep our cars alive, but the Brits and Germans have researched many products in regard to their efficiency to prevent rust. I'm a big fan of Fertan to remove rust without fuss, have used it for decades with great success, and if you check out the amazing story of my old Volvo (now on 8 pages), you'll find some cool photos of it at work.

http://www.californiaclassix.com/Bernard/PV544-1.html

To protect a car from rusting, the best product for many years has been Mike Sander's Karrosserieschutzfett (funny name, I know). It has outperformed all of the big hitters for over 30 years in that it moves in ways and to places no other product can match:

http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htm

Yes, you won't get this stuff next door, but it's the very best there is.

In addition, I'd like to suggest something I learned a very long time from an old master mechanic in his 70s who never had a rusty car, despite the fact that he drove it throughout the winters, salt on the road and all, when all of our cars where rusting like hell. He cleaned the undercarriage thoroughly, then had a bucket of grease that he got cheaply from the railroad, and brushed the stuff onto the undercarriage of his car. He liberally put a layer of grease on everything, embedded brake lines and fuel lines, and once the winter was over, he just wiped 95% of it off with a bunch-o-rags, and re-applied as needed, less in the summer, more before winter hit again. I use the same method, although we soak our Bonneville rig (truck and trailer) in fresh ATF before going on the salt and pressure washing everything off when we're back.

The advantage of this is that you can clean it up 100%, leave no trace afterward, and if you ever sell your car, it will look considerably nicer with paint underneath than with goo.

There you have it, my 2 cents.

12-07-2014, 08:48 PM	#11
Brother Hesekiel Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: San Buenaventura, Calif. Posts: 362	Re: Rust proofing: Schutz, cavity wax, other The son of a Swedish father and a German mother, I grew up in places with horrible weather year round, ranging from 280 days of rain per year up to harsh winters lasting several months. It's one of the reasons why I live in California now. I won't write an essay on what we've done in the old days to keep our cars alive, but the Brits and Germans have researched many products in regard to their efficiency to prevent rust. I'm a big fan of Fertan to remove rust without fuss, have used it for decades with great success, and if you check out the amazing story of my old Volvo (now on 8 pages), you'll find some cool photos of it at work. http://www.californiaclassix.com/Bernard/PV544-1.html To protect a car from rusting, the best product for many years has been Mike Sander's Karrosserieschutzfett (funny name, I know). It has outperformed all of the big hitters for over 30 years in that it moves in ways and to places no other product can match: http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htm Yes, you won't get this stuff next door, but it's the very best there is. In addition, I'd like to suggest something I learned a very long time from an old master mechanic in his 70s who never had a rusty car, despite the fact that he drove it throughout the winters, salt on the road and all, when all of our cars where rusting like hell. He cleaned the undercarriage thoroughly, then had a bucket of grease that he got cheaply from the railroad, and brushed the stuff onto the undercarriage of his car. He liberally put a layer of grease on everything, embedded brake lines and fuel lines, and once the winter was over, he just wiped 95% of it off with a bunch-o-rags, and re-applied as needed, less in the summer, more before winter hit again. I use the same method, although we soak our Bonneville rig (truck and trailer) in fresh ATF before going on the salt and pressure washing everything off when we're back. The advantage of this is that you can clean it up 100%, leave no trace afterward, and if you ever sell your car, it will look considerably nicer with paint underneath than with goo. There you have it, my 2 cents. __________________ Last edited by Brother Hesekiel; 12-07-2014 at 09:04 PM.