Two tooth steerg box

[Terry,NJ]

Joe! I considered the gap and was so frustrated by the time I reached a stopping point that I figured that the .100 gap was acceptable! I didn't tell the full story. Actually, at one point I knocked the worm back off the shaft and filed the shaft where it was obvious that the was interference. I don't know if you've tried this but this is a weird arrangement between a spline and a keyway. It is designed to be forced on under pressure. I don't believe that it should have been so much pressure. I doubt it should have raised a chip, cutting it's way on. I have some suspicions that the part was made with a bore that was undersize. I bought the worm from Snyder's (No reflection on them) and the part was made in Argentina.
I was very concerned about the force I had used and the possibility that I may have bent the shaft. Then one helpful guy suggested we use his forklift and a heavy jack. We did and bowed the shaft about six inches under the force. We immediately removed the jack and the shaft jumped back to straight again. I couldn't believe my good luck and when I got it mounted between the two bearings, this was the first thing I checked for.
Terry

Originally Posted by Joe K

0.100 short (long) might not make that much of a difference - but you'll know when you go to put the light switch in and you can't compress the spring enough to put the keeper and spyder in place. Plus, you'll have a 0.100 gap at the top between the wheel and the spark/throttle sectors.

Worse though, with your installation methodology (brute force) is it possible to have bent the steering shaft? Even slightly may be fatal to your effort. Bent creates a situation where the worm "wobbles" between the bearings - can't be adjusted tight against the sector at all positions of the wheel - and makes the "equalization" process more difficult and may result in unequal, or at least too much free play as you try to adjust at that "just off binding" position in the center of travel.

Re-reading above I see you've encountered EXACTLY the problems I have anticipated. Keep in mind that free play at "center" should be zero (tight but just a skosh beyond binding for turning the wheel) and increases (and is equal either side) as you go out on either side of center.

To remove the lower bearing cup, insert a small punch in the two screw holes where the light switch receiver is normally bolted. By alternately hammering lightly you can "walk" the bearing out of it's seat until it falls out.

Joe K