Changing the drivers side axle shaft without removing the axle?

[29ModelA]

Who has done this? It was mentioned on here awhile back, but is not popping up in a search. I need to get started changing mine and would like to know what I am in for.

[J Franklin]

What do you want to change it into? Sorry had to do it. Just unbolt everything that is holding the housing on and pull out the guts. Open it up on the ring gear side of the pinion.

[29ModelA]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

What do you want to change it into?

An unbroken axle shaft

[Tom Wesenberg]

You'll have to unbolt the right axle nut and remove that drum, then slide the assembly out the left side.

[tbirdtbird]

a broken Model A axle would be unusual.
I am sure you have checked to see if the axle key is not sheared or broken

[29ModelA]

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Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

a broken Model A axle would be unusual.
I am sure you have checked to see if the axle key is not sheared or broken

It's very much broken. I was lucky I was pulling away from a stoplight, when I jacked the car up the wheel basically fell off.

Tom, is a spring spreader still needed when doing it this way?

[Joe K]

Tom, is a spring spreader still needed when doing it this way?

Heh. I was going to comment on this - yes you need a spring spreader.

Which is why I would almost think it easier to simply remove the entire axle and do this while sitting on an upended 5 gallon pail rather than laying flat on your back.

It's not so hard to remove the axle. Think the speedo cable, the clamshells, the four brake rods and then (last) the two U-bolts holding spring and axle to the crossmember. This last one is the one that you might have a problem with. If your center spring bolt is failed then you will have a spring explosion as you undo the u-bolts.

This hazard best sidestepped by getting a couple of stout c-clamps and while the car is jacked up and the majority of the spring exposed, put the c-clamps on the spring clamping the leaves together. Put the clamps as close to the centerline of the car as the crossmember will allow. THEN remove the two u-bolts holding the spring to the crossmember. The axle AND spring (and C-clamps) can then be dropped/removed.

With the axle removed - then carefully remove one clamp at a time while examining the center bolt or the spring for something unusual. You can wrap the spring in a ratchet strap or even rope if you think you want extra security while removing the clamps.

Then, with the axle totally removed and the spring deemed safe, use a spring spreader to remove the spring from the axle.

I have removed an axle by leaving the spring behind using a method with wood blocks similar to Victor Page in The Model A Ford, but this method is NOT recommended. One block squirms out and you're screwed.

Good luck and work safe. Its not that hard with the right tools.

The other bad thing about replacing one side of the axle is you're pretty much assured of having to go through the "setting up of the rear differential" game. Axles vary as well as housings - and as you need to establish certain pre-loads, a new axle will screw up your settings. See Tom Endy's most excellent write up on setting up a rear axle.

Joe K

[Growley bear]

You still need a spring spreader.

Chet

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the spring is in nice greased condition, then I'd use the spring spreader and leave the spring attached to the frame. You save some work by just removing the left axle and housing, but if you want to do a complete clean up job, then just remove the complete axle assembly and lay it on the table. If the car is restored and painted, then I'd just remove the left side and leave the rest in the car. Otherwise I'm the kind of guy that like to do a complete clean and paint on the rear axle assembly.

On a nice unrestored original, then I'd do a clean up job, but not paint it.

[29ModelA]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If the spring is in nice greased condition, then I'd use the spring spreader and leave the spring attached to the frame. You save some work by just removing the left axle and housing, but if you want to do a complete clean up job, then just remove the complete axle assembly and lay it on the table. If the car is restored and painted, then I'd just remove the left side and leave the rest in the car. Otherwise I'm the kind of guy that like to do a complete clean and paint on the rear axle assembly.

On a nice unrestored original, then I'd do a clean up job, but not paint it.

Unrestored original car.

This is above my head, a local club member owns a shop that works on antique cars, and I just found out he stocks many A parts at his shop in Flint. He quoted me a good price, I decided to leave this to a professional with my limited time.

[Tom Endy]

It is possible to remove the two axles along with the carrier and ring gear from the car without removing the entire rear axle assembly from the car. However, it is involved and were I doing it I would just go ahead and remove the entire rear axle assembly from the car.

Regardless of how you go about it you should use a proper rear spring spreader. The rear spring on a Model A can be lethal, so proceed carefully. I would discourage the use of a half spring spreader or any other kind of method to spread the spring. Use a proper spring spreader that grips both sides of the spring.

First you need to get the rear of the car up on jack stands supporting the frame. remove both rear wheels. Remove both brake drums. Remove both axle keys. Put a floor jack under the banjo.

At the front of the car remove the nut holding the rear radius rods. The nut should be on the left side of the car.

Install the spring spreader and spread it enough to take the pressure off the shackles. Remove the left shackle. remove both brake rods from the left backing plate. Remove the anti-rattle springs from the left radius rod. Remove the ten banjo bolts from the left side of the banjo. It is now possible to remove the left axle housing with the left radius rod and left backing plate still attached to the left axle housing from the car.

Set it aside.

You can now pull both axles and carrier and ring gear out from the left side. The ring gear is on the left side of the pinion gear, so it will just pull away from it. Take the two-axle assembly to a work bench. You can now unbolt the carrier and replace either or both axles.

measure the gasket(s) on the left side of the banjo and replace it (them) with the same thickness. This will ensure that the pre-load (if there actually is one) will remain intact.

Reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Tom Endy