The Ford Barn

FordCustom · 04-02-2014, 07:22 PM

Tonight after work I decided once and for all to see if any or all of the valves were stuck open.. I removed the plugs one by one, and watched the valves like a hawk. The only chamber that didn't open/close is the second one from the front on the drivers side. The rear valve on that cylinder. Not sure if it's intake or exhaust. The rings might be stuck, as even the cylinders with working valves didn't try to push air past my thumb. I guess I will just MMO the heck out of it, and see if I can get them freed up and building compression again. There didn't seem to be any carbon buildup or rust inside either. This baby may run if I hook it up to a battery?

The engine oil is see through clean, though it does have an orange hue to it. I have some gasket material, so I'm going to drop the round cover on the pan, and see if any sludge is hiding out in there. I have oil and filter ready to go. The carb may be gummed too badly to work, but I have the dip can and rebuild kit ready.

Any tips for freeing up this one valve, without bending it?

tiquer · 04-02-2014, 09:27 PM

Ok this is common if the engine has been sitting idle for awhile. Now if you very gently tap the valve it should snap shut. To make sure it is not held open by the cam rotate the engine by hand untill the other valve opens and then it should close with only the lightest tap. Again too much viger will bend the valve if it is stuck hard.

jkeesey · 04-03-2014, 09:04 AM

If you can get the engine to run the heat it produces will also help. If the valve stuck is an intake make sure your face is nowhere near the carb when you get her running. I have had flat v8s with stuck valves on 4 cylinders fire up and unstick themselves within about 30 minutes of run time.

Mike51Merc · 04-03-2014, 10:06 AM

If you plan on running this engine, I think it's cheap insurance to take the heads and manifold off and see what's going on inside.

rotorwrench · 04-03-2014, 12:00 PM

Remove the head on the left bank. Use squirt can with marvel mystery oil & give some shots on the #6 exhaust valve stem through the open valve. Carefully push the valve closed with # 6 on top dead center. Rotate engine a few times to see if it unsticks. Repeat as necessary till valve functions normaly. If that won't unstick it, you will have to pull the intake and that valve assembly out and repair it.

Mart · 04-03-2014, 12:17 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If it's the rearmost valve, it's the exhaust, which is the one that's easier to see/access.

It might be worth starting the engine with that plug out and try squirting some oil or lube of some sort behind the valve while leaning on it with a blunt screwdriver or something similar. You have to be ready for it to pop up and down but you might be able to add enough closing pressure to assist the spring and allow it to close. Some lube in the tank and down the carb will also help, along with fresh, not stale fuel. It's got to be worth exhausting the non invasive methods before pulling it apart. If there's enough lube in the area and it will move a bit, the movement should get the lube where you want it and it may free up.

Mart.

FordCustom · 04-03-2014, 08:00 PM

Thanks for the help! I just MMO'd the engine, and worked it back and forth a few times to help it soak in. I am so happy the motor is not locked up. The valves look like they should in my opinion, not a whole bunch of carbon or rust, and kind of "metal" looking. I will find an intake gasket and pull it off, to see if the valve is stuck hard or just slightly stuck.

tiquer · 04-03-2014, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordCustom

Thanks for the help! I just MMO'd the engine, and worked it back and forth a few times to help it soak in. I am so happy the motor is not locked up. The valves look like they should in my opinion, not a whole bunch of carbon or rust, and kind of "metal" looking. I will find an intake gasket and pull it off, to see if the valve is stuck hard or just slightly stuck.

Ok to explain a litle clearer . Take out the spark plug shoot a little oil or wd40 etc. on the shaft of the stuck valve trough the plug hole. Now with a small screw driver and yuor favoret ball pean hammer gently give the valve a slight tap . If it snaps shut your good to go . If it remains stuck then by all means remove the head and check out the problem . Cant figure out why you would spend your good money on gaskets etc. before performing a two second test???

J Franklin · 04-04-2014, 12:31 AM

Ditto the previous post

FordCustom · 04-04-2014, 06:14 AM

I am going to try that after work tonight, partial reason for the MMO. I filled the cylinder and gave it a turn. Some of it "had" to get behind and will trickle down the shaft of the valve. We'll see what happens. This truck has been sitting for 30 years, and is a rebuilt motor by a well known local rebuilder. Vilven, who only went out of business in the early 2000's I believe. They were around forever and a day. It still has the riveted warranty tag on it. The fact that it was rebuilt might be the only reason why it's not frozen up solid.

FordCustom · 04-04-2014, 06:22 AM

Yeah I knew Vilven was around a long time. A search brought up a year of 1937 when they began rebuilding engines. Thirty years before I was born!

Terry,OH · 04-04-2014, 06:39 AM

If you can get the engine to run and put it into service add the MMO to the engine oil, following the bottle instructions. If one valve sticks others may not be far behind. Make sure the valve is not sticking because it is bent. If it is bent MMO will not free it up.

FordCustom · 04-04-2014, 08:17 PM

Success!! turned the engine until the other valve was open... tap tap tap..nothing. tap tap TAP, nothing. TAPTAPtap.. and it moved. For now it is moving up and down with the camshaft. I will just keep working on it until it's free for good. It stayed up the first time around, but after a few more taps, it was going up and down as it should.

Mart · 04-05-2014, 08:07 AM

Hey, that's great - I'm glad you freed it up without too much messing about.

Mart.

FordCustom · 04-06-2014, 10:36 PM

I guess I should not be surprised about MMO leaking from the exhaust system? I also removed the carb for rebuilding. I peered into the intake, and the runners were the color of fresh steel? A nice surprise for sure. It had a red work rag over it for the entire storage, and no air cleaner on it. I'd have expected at least some rust?

04-02-2014, 07:22 PM	#1
FordCustom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Houston, Tejas Posts: 274	Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Tonight after work I decided once and for all to see if any or all of the valves were stuck open.. I removed the plugs one by one, and watched the valves like a hawk. The only chamber that didn't open/close is the second one from the front on the drivers side. The rear valve on that cylinder. Not sure if it's intake or exhaust. The rings might be stuck, as even the cylinders with working valves didn't try to push air past my thumb. I guess I will just MMO the heck out of it, and see if I can get them freed up and building compression again. There didn't seem to be any carbon buildup or rust inside either. This baby may run if I hook it up to a battery? The engine oil is see through clean, though it does have an orange hue to it. I have some gasket material, so I'm going to drop the round cover on the pan, and see if any sludge is hiding out in there. I have oil and filter ready to go. The carb may be gummed too badly to work, but I have the dip can and rebuild kit ready. Any tips for freeing up this one valve, without bending it?

04-02-2014, 09:27 PM	#2
tiquer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Kamloops B.C. Posts: 392	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Ok this is common if the engine has been sitting idle for awhile. Now if you very gently tap the valve it should snap shut. To make sure it is not held open by the cam rotate the engine by hand untill the other valve opens and then it should close with only the lightest tap. Again too much viger will bend the valve if it is stuck hard.

04-03-2014, 09:04 AM	#3
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. If you can get the engine to run the heat it produces will also help. If the valve stuck is an intake make sure your face is nowhere near the carb when you get her running. I have had flat v8s with stuck valves on 4 cylinders fire up and unstick themselves within about 30 minutes of run time.

04-03-2014, 10:06 AM	#4
Mike51Merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northeast Pennsylvania Posts: 1,582	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. If you plan on running this engine, I think it's cheap insurance to take the heads and manifold off and see what's going on inside.

04-03-2014, 12:00 PM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,564	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Remove the head on the left bank. Use squirt can with marvel mystery oil & give some shots on the #6 exhaust valve stem through the open valve. Carefully push the valve closed with # 6 on top dead center. Rotate engine a few times to see if it unsticks. Repeat as necessary till valve functions normaly. If that won't unstick it, you will have to pull the intake and that valve assembly out and repair it.

04-03-2014, 12:17 PM	#6
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,804	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If it's the rearmost valve, it's the exhaust, which is the one that's easier to see/access. It might be worth starting the engine with that plug out and try squirting some oil or lube of some sort behind the valve while leaning on it with a blunt screwdriver or something similar. You have to be ready for it to pop up and down but you might be able to add enough closing pressure to assist the spring and allow it to close. Some lube in the tank and down the carb will also help, along with fresh, not stale fuel. It's got to be worth exhausting the non invasive methods before pulling it apart. If there's enough lube in the area and it will move a bit, the movement should get the lube where you want it and it may free up. Mart.

04-03-2014, 08:00 PM	#7
FordCustom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Houston, Tejas Posts: 274	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Thanks for the help! I just MMO'd the engine, and worked it back and forth a few times to help it soak in. I am so happy the motor is not locked up. The valves look like they should in my opinion, not a whole bunch of carbon or rust, and kind of "metal" looking. I will find an intake gasket and pull it off, to see if the valve is stuck hard or just slightly stuck.

04-04-2014, 12:31 AM	#9
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 6,025	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Ditto the previous post

04-04-2014, 06:14 AM	#10
FordCustom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Houston, Tejas Posts: 274	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. I am going to try that after work tonight, partial reason for the MMO. I filled the cylinder and gave it a turn. Some of it "had" to get behind and will trickle down the shaft of the valve. We'll see what happens. This truck has been sitting for 30 years, and is a rebuilt motor by a well known local rebuilder. Vilven, who only went out of business in the early 2000's I believe. They were around forever and a day. It still has the riveted warranty tag on it. The fact that it was rebuilt might be the only reason why it's not frozen up solid. Last edited by FordCustom; 04-04-2014 at 06:30 AM.

04-04-2014, 06:22 AM	#11
FordCustom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Houston, Tejas Posts: 274	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Yeah I knew Vilven was around a long time. A search brought up a year of 1937 when they began rebuilding engines. Thirty years before I was born! Last edited by FordCustom; 04-04-2014 at 06:31 AM.

04-04-2014, 06:39 AM	#12
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,804	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. If you can get the engine to run and put it into service add the MMO to the engine oil, following the bottle instructions. If one valve sticks others may not be far behind. Make sure the valve is not sticking because it is bent. If it is bent MMO will not free it up.

04-04-2014, 08:17 PM	#13
FordCustom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Houston, Tejas Posts: 274	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Success!! turned the engine until the other valve was open... tap tap tap..nothing. tap tap TAP, nothing. TAPTAPtap.. and it moved. For now it is moving up and down with the camshaft. I will just keep working on it until it's free for good. It stayed up the first time around, but after a few more taps, it was going up and down as it should.

04-05-2014, 08:07 AM	#14
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,804	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. Hey, that's great - I'm glad you freed it up without too much messing about. Mart.

04-06-2014, 10:36 PM	#15
FordCustom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Houston, Tejas Posts: 274	Re: Flathead with only ONE stuck valve. I guess I should not be surprised about MMO leaking from the exhaust system? I also removed the carb for rebuilding. I peered into the intake, and the runners were the color of fresh steel? A nice surprise for sure. It had a red work rag over it for the entire storage, and no air cleaner on it. I'd have expected at least some rust?