Rookie with an engine problem

[James Rogers]

PC, I check all clearances as I assemble the engine, no matter what the micrometer read when I cut it or what a supplier suggests. My rod supplier furnishes a 3/4" piece of plasti-gauge with his rods to check one with. This assumes the rest are correct because one is. I don't subscribe to this line of thought and use a 1" piece on EVERY rod for a check. I have found rods that were cut wrong, even just one in a set.

The person who said fixing the mistakes of other rebuilders and mechanics is his stock in trade does this because today's mechanics are little more than parts changers with no diagnostic skills for the most part. This line of thought has projected into the restorer rebuilders of our hobby and many don't know the intricacies of such a simple motor. I agree with that person whole heartedly. Herm is right about the full pan. These motors have run for 85 years with the pan filled to full. The only time the pan will leak profusely when full if done right is when the car is driven or parked on a steep hill. Even a perfect stock original motor will leak in this instance. This is the only reason I suggest running the oil slightly low.

[Shelby1962]

Mr. Rogers...Thanks for the suggestions on the tinfoil and everyone else that replied. As you can see from the photos the engine maybe fresh but whoever did the babbit work should be banned from doing this kind of work! The clearance was .006 but the thrust was good at .004. Had a friend come over with Les Andrews book and he helped with the main clearance. It's now within spec. Put it all back together and ran it for 45 minutes and no leaks yet. Not sure how long it will live but it appears to be OK for now. Not the most confident on the engine but it sure is a pretty thing.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Shelby1962

Mr. Rogers...Thanks for the suggestions on the tinfoil and everyone else that replied. As you can see from the photos the engine maybe fresh but whoever did the babbit work should be banned from doing this kind of work! The clearance was .006 but the thrust was good at .004. Had a friend come over with Les Andrews book and he helped with the main clearance. It's now within spec. Put it all back together and ran it for 45 minutes and no leaks yet. Not sure how long it will live but it appears to be OK for now. Not the most confident on the engine but it sure is a pretty thing.

Glad I could help and, you are right, that is a shoddy looking job. Others are correct in that, there should be wells at the sides of the bearings. These wells should go from where the groove intersects the parting line to the same place on the other side and there should be one on each side. This, among other things, could have been what contributed to the clearance being wrong . Even if you only have one on each side of the cap it is better than none.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by Shelby1962

Mr. Rogers...Thanks for the suggestions on the tinfoil and everyone else that replied. As you can see from the photos the engine maybe fresh but whoever did the babbit work should be banned from doing this kind of work! The clearance was .006 but the thrust was good at .004. Had a friend come over with Les Andrews book and he helped with the main clearance. It's now within spec. Put it all back together and ran it for 45 minutes and no leaks yet. Not sure how long it will live but it appears to be OK for now. Not the most confident on the engine but it sure is a pretty thing.

I would guess that front flange will crack off at some point, as it looks to be just hanging out away from the cap serface. You can see the babbitt wasn't peened.

Oil will go through the mating surface of the cap and block with shims.

I always put a light coat of RTV on the shims, and both end's of the main bolt's.

If the RTV comes out past the part line"s more then you want, you have put on to much.

Oil will go through the shims, no matter what.