Engine stalling around corners?

[stallerl]

Earlier this week I got my '29 Tudor running after installing a different Model A engine in it a few months ago. After tracing down a electrical short it seems to be OK except while out on a 'test' drive the engine would just quit. This was after 4 right hand turns at low speed 2 different times. I have very little gas in the tank and am wondering if the turns are causing it to run out of gas as what is in the tank sloshes around. I do have the shut off valve filter in place so not to suck any crappy gas from the bottom of the tank.
Could it really be the low level of gas in the tank or could it be a coincidence that it stalled twice at the same corner on 2 different drives?
(I hope it's a gas quantity issue)??
Has anyone else experience anything like this? Any suggestions?
Thanks

[ford3]

one of two things, low fuel in tank and it runs to one side on a corner starving carb, before you do any thing else fill fuel tank, if that doesnt fix the problem it may be a problem with the carb, float set to low or to high, float set to low carb runs out of fuel when corning,or the float is set to high and flooding engine when corning

[ericr]

I've had the same problem and the float on my "professionally rebuilt carb" etc. was set too high. I rather have it set a tad lower that erring on the line upwards.

[Raven]

That happened to me last Wednesday...after a recent cleaning I've been chasing water out of my fuel tank so I only keep maybe a quart of fuel in the tank. I thought it would be a good idea to drive in circles first clockwise then counterclockwise out in the cul-de-sac to "chase" the water out that was stuck behind the baffles...until the car spuddered and died. It turned over and sounded like it wanted to run but wouldn't start...so I pushed it up the driveway(every time I end up pushing Dixie Pearl I'm so glad she's not a Packard or Cadillac!)...I checked for gas flow at the carb filter and at first nothing came out then fuel was present...then it started right up so I'm going to write that off to fuel starvation...does that sound about right?

[stallerl]

The stalling occurs when I decelerate to turn the corner. The engine just stops running, no shuddering, burping or farting. It just quits running. Then it doesn't want to start. I'm thinking it's flooding because after it sits for a while it'll start again.
But first I'm going to get some more gas in the tank then drive it around a bit to see if it will continue to stall. If not I'll know it keep gas in the car. If it'll still be stalling I'll check the float level.

[H. L. Chauvin]

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Two (2) very common problems with Model A carburetors are flooding out with too high a fuel level in the bowl, or flooding because after market jets that are too short
& tops of jets become submerged in fuel.

As one slows down & turns, fuel sloshes in the carburetor bowl & flooding occurs which causes a condition similar to pulling out the choke with pure fuel & not enough air.

A choked engine cannot run -- the combustion chamber needs both fuel "and" air.

According to Mr. Steve Pargeter's diagrams in his book:

A. The cap jet "tube" length needs to be 1-3/32" in length minimum; and,

B. The main jet total length needs to be 1-15/32" + 3/32" head thickness = 1-18/32" or 1-9/16" minimum "total" length.

Also, if you do not have one, get a float level tester with a plastic tube to connect to the bowl drain.

Mr. Rex Reheis, (carburetor re-builder for years), recommends a lower fuel level of 15/16" from carburetor gasket at carburetor halves down to fuel level in lieu of 1/2" or even 5/8" recommended by others.

Hope this helps.

[ericr]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Two (2) very common problems with Model A carburetors are flooding out with too high a fuel level in the bowl, or flooding because after market jets that are too short
& tops of jets become submerged in fuel.

As one slows down & turns, fuel sloshes in the carburetor bowl & flooding occurs which causes a condition similar to pulling out the choke with pure fuel & not enough air.

A choked engine cannot run -- the combustion chamber needs both fuel "and" air.

According to Mr. Steve Partager's diagrams in his book:

A. The cap jet "tube" length needs to be 1-3/32" in length minimum; and,

B. The main jet total length needs to be 1-15/32" + 3/32" head thickness = 1-18/32" or 1-9/16" minimum "total" length.

Also, if you do not have one, get a float level tester with a plastic tube to connect to the bowl drain.

Mr. Rex Reheis, (carburetor re-builder for years), recommends a lower fuel level of 15/16" from carburetor gasket at carburetor halves down to fuel level in lieu of 1/2" or even 5/8" recommended by others.

Hope this helps.

well I think that information should help a lot of us! isn't part of the problem the position that the float is hinged? Didn't later carbs shift the float position 90 degrees?

[acenewman]

had a similar issue with my car. Stalled every time I slowed down to turn a corner. Then was hard to restart. Turned out to be an aftermarket jet that was flowing way to much fuel. Compared the "new" replacement jets in my carb to some old originals and found one of the "new" ones had a hole about twice as big as it was supposed to be. Replaced it with the 80 year old original and problem solved. Runs like a top now.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi staller & ericr,

Might add a few thoughts:

1. Ford's original jets with numbers marked on each were made with a much higher degree of quality control than that of what one witnesses with later un-marked replacement jets.

2. Most uninformed Model A owners & mechanics were later & still are hoodwinked into thinking that carburetor jets wear out like tires; hence one has to get new jets now & then -- definitely not so.

3. Experience shows that if one does not run steel wire through jets to clean them, thus enlarging the orifices; or tighten jets with incorrect size thin screwdrivers with the force of a (10) foot tall gorilla, original Model A jets & Model B jets & jet gaskets could easily last over 80 years with proper care & Common Sense.

4. Simple Carburetor Gorilla Test: Just look at the tip of the GAV valve & tip of the air adjustment valve -- if either one or both has a deep, worn "stepped" taper on the pointed tip, the Gorillas already got to your carburetor.

5. Most replacement jets flow too much fuel as opposed to too little fuel; hence this causes sooty spark plugs, carbon build up around valves reducing fuel/air flow & engine efficiency, & also fewer miles per gallon.

6. Some replacement jets had square or bullet shaped tips as opposed to indented tips; hence, incorrect shaped tips contributed to capillary action thus allowing fuel to flow when the engine is not running causing the carburetor to constantly leak when the car is parked.

7. The Model A Zenith carburetor's round bottom helps fuel to slosh around when turning corners or stopping at a red light -- acts like milk in a cereal bowl placed on a Model A floor board while driving -- try a bowl of milk on the floor board to "see" what happens -- with higher fuel level & with main & cap jets too short which can become submerged, the combustion chambers get flooded with raw, wet gas with no air in the fuel mixture -- solution: get proper length jets & lower bowl fuel level.

8. Never saw this written, but I never heard of fuel sloshing problems & Model A engines dying when one uses a rectangular shaped carburetor bowl like that of the later Sears Marvel replacement carburetors -- I have an original Marvel that a (10) foot tall gorilla never touched the jets, GAV, or air flow adjustment needle -- gets 28 miles per gallon -- also have a "well" used Model B carburetor with all beautiful original numbered jets that the gorillas did not get to either -- both work like a charm.

9. One can buy calibrated jets offered today; however, its not a bad idea to get the inexpensive books written on carburetors to try to diagnose one's fuel problems -- also interesting reading.

Hope this helps to correct a few of today's carburetor problems.

[stallerl]

Thanks for all the valuable input. Looks like my car isn't the only one that is stalling when decelerating for a turn. I hope all this info will turn out to be helpful for others. Here's the latest with my car as of this morning. I put in approx 4 gallons of gas into the tank. The car started right up and idled for more then 10 minutes. I didn't take it out to test the corner issue 'cause I don't have anyone to help get the car back home if it stalled. But it did idle in the garage with not problems except when I goosed the throttle a bit (rev'd it up) it backfired when I was decelerating. Not a terrific explosion but a backfire never the less. Too much fuel? Advance/retard? Thanks again!

[H. L. Chauvin]

Backfire:

1. Usually caused by "unburned" fuel, that did not ignite correctly in the "sealed" combustion chamber when the spark plug fired; hence, this portion of unburned fuel ignited after the exhaust valve opened the "sealed" combustion chamber.

2. Portions of unburned fuel "later" ignited while not being "sealed" in the combustion chamber will make a noise thus sounding like a backfire.

3. A few common causes, (not listed in any prescribed order):

a. Fuel level in carburetor bowl too high -- too much fuel in combustion chamber.
b. Air leaking through intake manifold joint.
c. Valve clearances for intake valve(s) too small; and/or intake valves slightly burned, either condition keeping valves from seating,
d. Dirty & heated spark plug causing pre-ignition or lots of carbon glowing in dirty combustion chamber(s) or exhaust ports.

Just a start on possible causes.

[1931 flamingo]

I would ck the intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. Get the car running and spray WD-40 around the manifolds, if a rough idle or not you should hear a change (for the better) in how it's idling. FWIW
Paul in CT

[Marshall V. Daut]

Besides the carburetor and fuel flow issues, also check that your battery is not moving around in its compartment. When going around corners, a battery cable end set at an angle can come into contact with the metal framing around the battery or the short brake pedal rod and briefly short out the ignition. The battery may be tipping or sliding while cornering and that causes the temporary igintion kill. Once the car has gone around the corner, the battery is no longer being shorted out and the engine will start right up. Is that what's happening?
Check it out. It's happened to me in the past.
Marshall

[stallerl]

Wow! You guys are incredible!
I'll start with the easier 'fixes' first. Check that the battery is tight in the battery tray. Intake/exhaust manifolds are tightly mounted. Check and clean or replace the spark plugs. Check valve clearances and then if all this fails I check the carb jets where I have a feeling, based on your expert comments, is where the problem is. But first I'll check the easy stuff.
Thanks again for all the invaluable suggestions! I'll let you know what I find.

[ericr]

does anyone know how to print comments from the Barn? H.L. (and others) have come up with some information I want to preserve and doing a search here is not always simple nor fast.....

[1931 flamingo]

In the upper RH corner of each post is a number, click on it, go to print, and only that posting will print.
Paul in CT

[29ModelA]

When mine was doing this a month ago I had some fine, fine silt that made its way into the carb. I cleaned it out and it is back to normal.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by stallerl

Wow! You guys are incredible!
I'll start with the easier 'fixes' first. Check that the battery is tight in the battery tray. Intake/exhaust manifolds are tightly mounted. Check and clean or replace the spark plugs. Check valve clearances and then if all this fails I check the carb jets where I have a feeling, based on your expert comments, is where the problem is. But first I'll check the easy stuff.
Thanks again for all the invaluable suggestions! I'll let you know what I find.

Routine cleaning of the carb is quite easy, they're quite simple.
It's good also to differentiate between "backfire" & "coughing back"! Backfire is a loud KABOOM or popping out the KZHAUST PIPE, COUGHING BACK, is when it huffs white vapor out the back of the carb & STINKS to high heavens, like raw gas in the car, like, EAU-DE- CRAP GAS!! Bill W.