Good photo of Skip's impeller?

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Seem to recall that someone on this forum mentioned that one of the requirements for using Skip's pumps is that thermostats not be used.
So if removing your thermostats solved your problem, why would you need Skip's pumps?

Right on! Just sent Skip this email:

"Do you have a recommendation as to whether or not to use a thermostat with your pumps? i.e. can the engine get the advantage of the increased flow from your pumps with the thermostats left in or do they need to come out to really benefit?"

This was his reponse:

"Any modern thermostats I have seen for 32 to 48 engines have small flow openings restricting the flow of water. If the flow is restricted there is no use buying my pumps."

The only alternative he had was to use Bob Shewman's 180° high flow thermostats.

So, if you want to use Ford's recommended 160° thermostats on your 32-48 engines there's no reason to buy Skip's pumps. Looks like you'll get better flow with a stock or C&G pump without a thermostat than you will with Skip's pumps and the currently available 160° thermostat.

So, looks like I'll just keep doing what I've been doing - keep using the pump I've got and remove the thermostat in the summer to increase flow and put it back in for winter for the heater to work better.

Case closed. (Whew . . . that took some time and effort but I found out what I wanted to know. It was certainly worth the effort for me. Sorry if it bothered anyone else.)

Thanks again for everyone's input, especially Skip's very honest and frank response. (Looks like he really is as nice a guy as everyone says.)

[51 MERC-CT]

[QUOTE=Old Henry;653064]
So, looks like I'll just keep doing what I've been doing - keep using the pump I've got and remove the thermostat in the summer to increase flow and put it back in for winter for the heater to work better.
QUOTE]

Was just giving some thought as to what I would consider doing if I had an early ('32-'48) flathead and were in the same situation.
First remove the A.F.R's. (automatic flow regulators), then install M.F.R's.
(manual flow regulators).
The M.F.R's could be in the form of ball valves (no bigger than the I.D. of the head outlets) and located somewhere in the upper hose.
This could be rigged to give control of each side manually from the dash.
Set temp. for normal driving, come to a long hill at altitude, open 'm up.
(Concours types please disregard)

[Old Henry]

[QUOTE=51 MERC-CT;653334]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

So, looks like I'll just keep doing what I've been doing - keep using the pump I've got and remove the thermostat in the summer to increase flow and put it back in for winter for the heater to work better.
QUOTE]

Was just giving some thought as to what I would consider doing if I had an early ('32-'48) flathead and were in the same situation.
First remove the A.F.R's. (automatic flow regulators), then install M.F.R's.
(manual flow regulators).
The M.F.R's could be in the form of ball valves (no bigger than the I.D. of the head outlets) and located somewhere in the upper hose.
This could be rigged to give control of each side manually from the dash.
Set temp. for normal driving, come to a long hill at altitude, open 'm up.
(Concours types please disregard)

If I were to go with a MFR it would be the cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter.

[51 MERC-CT]

[QUOTE=Old Henry;653395]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

If I were to go with a MFR it would be the cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter.

Yep!, Can remember my father doing it as standard practice on his '38 former police car (still had the patch where the whip antenna went.)