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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ft Mohave,Az
Posts: 1,992
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Find someone with one of these. Spendy but look like it could work. Found this on the HAMB BTW
http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41 |
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#22 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northern Mi.
Posts: 355
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When I used to work on Brit cars we called hammers "english wrenches"
Quote:
Torchie. |
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#23 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northern Mi.
Posts: 355
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![]() Quote:
![]() Torchie. |
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ft Mohave,Az
Posts: 1,992
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You might check some of those big rig shops for one. The guys on the HAMB were saying some were listed on the E sale site also for about a $100 less
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Overbrook, Ks
Posts: 159
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An air chisel with the proper bit works great for both stubborn kingpins and perchpins. The motion of the air chisel tends to vibrate out the rust binding the stuck parts. Most pieces will come apart with the air chisel alone, but for the most stubborn parts heat can be applied. I've fought some pretty hard, but never found a perch pin or kingpin that didn't ultimately give up with the heat/air chisel combination. Works best with the axle out of the vehicle.
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 103
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to the king pin. not like a steel punch that asorbs. |
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#27 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
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I've had good luck freeing up stuck anything with 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.
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#28 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 78
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If your king pin is the style with the flat "washer" on top you can take a chisle and remover the washer.
Once it is removed you can hammer down instead of up Saves fingers and more force is applied.
__________________
Dick C Erie, PA 1996 Exploder 1952 Ford F2 (Driver) 1948 Ford F1 Panel (Frame off resto-rod) 1946 Ford Coupe (Basket case) |
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