Light Switch

[Vicky]

I have a question regarding the Light Switch Assembly.

The Horn Rod is installed, and the Spring & Clip correctly installed on the bottom. The switch was properly installed and all lights and horn work correctly. As you move the light switch through the different positions, you can not "feel" or "hear" the switch engage at the different contacts.

Is there a spring that pushes the "wiper" on the Upper Section of the switch to the lower contacts of the switch ensure a more positive contact with the lower section (the part with the wires connected to it)?

I was helping a new owner that had removed everything from the steering box and could not get it back together. I could not find enough information regarding the switch assembly in the Service Bulletins or the Les Andrews Manual. I am just trying to get it to operate correctly.

Thanks for any help.

Bob

[Jazzjr]

You definitely should feel tension when turning the light switch lever, like it is riding over bumps, unless the contacts are worn down. Did you have good tension on the spring when you pushed up the fork up to insert the clip on the Horn Rod. If you didn't, try stretching the spring a little, or use a new Spring.

[Joe K]

As to the positioning mentioned by Jazzjr - that is for the twolight headlight. The earlier version fluted lenses have a different positioning. (can't remember but someone will likely jump in here.) These earlier lights require an earlier switch and some (including me) have problems trying to put the later lights against an earlier switch (the early switch is not reproduced IIRC.)

And I'm not talking the earliest switch which is held by a separate bracket to the 7 tooth column.

There has been some complaints with the switch plates/contacts being provided aftermarket. Some feel that the contacts are being done as rivets only and not "dished" into the plastic like the original - the result being no self locking and what you describe.

One of my switchplates I actually used a center drill and drilled the center of the rivet to provide a depression for the contact to sit into.

Another thing you can do is disassemble the rotating switch contacts (they're copper) and "bend" the fingers of these to make a better, well, more firm contact against the buttons/rivets.

So yes, have seen some of what you're experiencing. Not totally pleased with my results and have considered simply "reworking" an OEM switch plate/harness assembly to give better.

Isn't there a company in Connecticut who specializes in the switch plate/harness? Maybe they've already invented the correct wheel?

Joe K

[Tom Wesenberg]

The spring is in the top half of the light switch assembly. This is the part that the light stwitch/horn rod spider engages when you slip it onto the bottom of the steering column. When you push the contact plate into position in the top half of the switch, you should feel the spring pressing the contact spider into the contacts plate. Did you feel the spring pressure when you pushed the light switch bottom cover into position and gave it a small twist to lock it?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I see once again Joe and I were typing at the same time. This time he beat me by a nano second.

Actually on repro parts I've often had the light switch be too stiff and I thought I'd bend the horn rod before the contacts switched over to turn the light on. I like to use Vaseline to make the contacts slide easier. As mentioned sometimes I do find rather shallow dimples in the light swtich contacts plate.

[Vicky]

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A new spring and clip were used and there was good tension when the fork and clip were installed on the horn rod.

The bottom half of the switch assembly was new, and there were dimples for the upper half to make contact in the correct positions on the lower part of the switch.

When I installed the upper and lower parts of the switch, there was tension ( it was a few days ago and I'm not sure how much tension). The car is at another guys house..

Also, when I installed the switch onto the steering box, there is some tension, and the clip installs and holds the switch assembly in position.

What puzzles me is why there is enough tension between the lower section and the wiper to make contact for the lights to work correctly, but you can not feel the different positions as you rotate the horn rod/switch.

I will go back and see if I can't figure it out. Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

Does the light switch/horn rod stay in position as the steering wheel is turned?

[Vicky]

Yes, When the switch is an any position (Park, Off, Dim or Bright) and the Steering Wheel is turned, the switch will stay in the correct position. It does not catch in any position.

With the Light Switch removed and the Fork, Spring and Clip on the bottom, the Horn Rod can be turned freely 360 degrees, with not resistance.

[Tom Wesenberg]

So, it sounds like everything is fine except for the fact you can't feel any dimples to lock the switch in position. I've never had one like that before, but you may have to increase the size of the dimples in the contact plate.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a link to some pictures I posted that show original contact plates and how the dimples look. Scroll down to #16, I think it was.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...+tom+wesenberg

[Joe K]

[QUOTE=Tom Wesenberg;612296]Here's a link to some pictures I posted that show original contact plates and how the dimples look. Scroll down to #16, I think it was.

And you've probably written the best description of the differences in the switch between the fluted and twolight setups.

The very early switch was even a little more different to include markings on the handle/knob/button in front of the operator.

Thanks!

Joe K

[Vicky]

Tom & Joe,
Thanks for helping me with this problem. I will go back the first of the week and start over. It seems like there was something simple I didn't't do right.

By the way, we will be doing the Great Race in our Victoria and will start at the Fairgrounds in St Paul on 22 June. We arrive at the Airport Marriott on the 19th for Tech, etc. if you want to come by and see some interesting vehicles.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

I need to get a 2013 calendar, so I can mark the date.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On Minerva, light detents were not real "crisp", brushed switch lever with my arm coming out of a gas station, cop stopped me. It move just a tad, killing the tail lights, but headlights were still on. He only lectured me for pulling out in front of him in an ooold "slow" car. I asked if I could demonstrate Minerva's "quickness" when I left. At the next stoplight he gave me a "thumbs up"! Bill W.

[stainless steve]

put mine together yesterday and had it feel something like that ..it took awhile but I noticed I had rotated the bail mount when i PUT IT TOGETHER ealier and bail was not pulling it up right rotated it back to proper position and all was well