'33 Ford problem 4.11 to 3.54 ratio

[larry/Texas]

I purchased a modified 3.54 gear set for a '33 and reviewed past V8 Times articles plus got advise to my questions here on the Barn. Have now finished car and started driving it. I have a noise that is loudest about mid driveline that appears to be from rubbing. The drive line was shortened and a new 6 spline was welded in to mate with the modified '35 and up Ring & Pinon. The modified driveline looked good and installed w/o problems. I am now assuming that it is not straight, thus the rubbing noise but I do not feel any vibration at speeds up to about 50MPH. I am looking for comments, advice etc. before I proceed to remove the rear end.

Thank for your help
larry/Texas

[Lawrie]

Did you make sure that the back edge of the ring gear was relieves to clear the axle trumpet tube.
Lawrie

[Planojc]

Make sure you don't have too long of bolts holding the spedo gear to the tork tube. Also check the coupler pin on the rear of the driveshaft.

[Randy]

The length of the later pinion gear is 1/2" longer than the early one and the hole for the driveshaft retainer pin is also 1/2" farther forward. This must be taken into account when shortening the driveshaft to use the later pinion gear in the early banjo center section or the driveshaft needs to be pushed another 1/2" onto the pinion gear and a new hole drilled to pin it. If it was taken into account then the end of your driveshaft should have been flush to 0.100" shorter than the end of the torque tube bell (in my experience). If it protruded much farther than that, there is a chance of the end of the driveshaft rubbing the bolt that holds the u-joint to the transmission. I don't know if you remember how it looked, but it's a possibility and the noise would be in the center of the car. Good luck!

[larry/Texas]

Lawrie, Planojc & Randy

I thank each of you for your ideas & comments

The gears were purchased from Mac,s and the ring gear teeth were machined on the OD so they would fit in the housing. I believe that they are correct but If I have to go into the housing I will be sure to check it out.

The spedo bolts are a possibility and I will start by checking them out.


In changing out the gears, I refered to V8 Times Letter to Editor pages 4 & 5 of Vol. 20, No. 3, May/June 1983 plus feedback given to me in a January 2011 post on Fordbarn. One of those post was from Randy and I used all info when I had the work done. I am not sure now what the final measurement of the drive shaft was. I can not tell you if the end of the driveshaft is/was longer than the torque tube bell. I will need to remove the rear end to find that out.

Using a stethoscope the noise is loudest where the rear radius rods bolt onto the torque tube. The noise get less as you go toward the engine or rear end. If the spedo bolts are not the problem it looks like I will need to pull the rearend unless I find something else.

Thanks for your help. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

[Henry/Kokomo]

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Isn't the area where the noise is loudest about the same place as the driveshaft bearing (presuming you have one)? just a thought.

[larry/Texas]

This has the early driveline made out of 1-3/4 inch tubing and does not have a center bearing. The solid shaft design with center bearing came later.

[bluardun]

Your problem is hopfully something simple.
For a referance and piece of mind, go to "VAN PELTS ANTIQUE AUTO" web site.
In the upper left of their web page click on the box DRAWINGS. Then 1933 rear ends.
There is an exploded drawing of a rear end assy. Note the assemblby of the speedo gear, thrust washer, etc. It's free, and you don't have to talk to anyone.
Enjoy your hobby
bh

[Bill OH]

I will suggest pulling the rear end, removing the torque tube and look for marks on the drive shaft - drive shaft straight? Interesting that the noise originates from the center of the torque tube. Best wishes.

[Randy]

I put one together one time with a torque tube that had been shortened by someone else. The torque tube wasn't straight (the front bearing bore by the speedo gear was not perpendicular to the rear flange face) causing the driveshaft to flex in the middle until the heat from the flex caused the metal to fatigue and break, leaving me stranded on the side of the road. Hopefully, yours is something simple, but the noise being in the center is very odd. I had a friend with some very precise equipment shorten another torque tube for me, build another driveshaft and it was fine after that.

[G.M.]

Why don't you loosen the 4 bolts at the front bell of drive shaft bell of the torque tube and see if that removes or reduces the noise. G.M.

[larry/Texas]

I have removed the spedo gear and it does have the correct length bolts, 1-1/16" long. I have run the engine with the bell bolts loosened and noise appears to still be there. I will be removing the rearend as suggested. I believe I will find the modified driveline to be too long. I can only verify that by removal of the rear end. Thanks to everyone who has responded above with suggestions.

[Lawrie]

If you look at the old posts ,I think from bruce lancaster it will give all the things you need to do,including shortening the drive shaft etc.
If you can find it PM me and I will have a look .I have it filed somewhere.
Lawrie

[larry/Texas]

I removed the rearend today and found a lack of lubrication of the front drive shaft roller bearing in the speedometer gear area was the problem. The roller bearing, thrust washer, grease seal, spedo drive gear and split sleeve bearing were all damaged. I have parts on the way. Now I need to really clean the the torque tube, back of transmission, lube and reassemble.

Can anyone tell me how to lube the area and with what so it does not happen again. The above mentioned seal keeps rearend gear oil out of this area and the bell has a zerk fitting for grease to the u-joint. Do you put transmission oil or what and how much in this area? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Again thanks to all who responded with suggestions. As mentioned, the noise was centered where the rear radius arms attach to the torque tube. I have always heard that just because the noise is at point A that does not mean that is where the problem is. Also, the drive shaft did not extend beyond the bell. There were also no rubs on the drive shaft. Everything else looks good.

Lawrie, I could not find the article you mentioned above. Thanks.

[FlatheadTed]

you can use CV grease ,or make mix of gear lube and compatible oil .some use Corn head grease .pre pack it, takes a pint .make sure the Zerk is lined up or the grease can get through .