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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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It is the old junior Model A guy when it comes to these kind of problems. Would like some help trying to pin down this problem.
My engine in my coupe has a "clicking" sound in it as opposed to a "knock". I have tried the following to try to pin it down: 1. Grounded out each spark plug-not change in sound. 2. Changed out the distributor from a two part shaft type to a single shaft type-no change. 3. Took out the timing pin, turned it around, stated engine and had running and then pushed the timing pin against the timing gear-no change. 4. Rechecked the timing.-No change. 5. Took the fan belt off and ran the engine-No change. 6. Purchased a HF listening thing and tried to listen for the sound. Checked a number of places on the engine and not knowing what I should be hearing, did not find much of a noise location except when I put it on the distributor, it seems to make a little different sound. So I have run out of ideas as to what to do next. The sound seems to be not as loud when the spark is all the way up. Does anyone have any more ideas as to what I could check? Would appreciate any ideas.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster Last edited by Fred K-OR; 11-08-2012 at 09:18 PM. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,614
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Checked your starter bolts for proper length?Is this while driving or idling?
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 691
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Fred,
Mine does the same thing. Tried all the same tricks you did but no luck either. Folks suggested possibly a broken ring, wrist pin noise or piston. Mine is somewhat irregular but definately a click rather than a knock. Pete |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 524
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First thing that came to mind was one time on my car, the distributor starting making a noticeable tick sound. It was the distributor shaft needing to be oiled at the top and bottom bushing. Also, I've seen hairline cracks in the distributor caps making a tick sound when the voltage travels through them. Try oiling the shaft and changing all the plastic pieces on your distributor. Any tick I've ever heard under the hood has always been distributor based. Your on the right track. Lastly, could it be a rotor cap spinning and touching one of the metal studs inside the distributor cap? Keep at it and let us know.
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DMAFC |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
Posts: 1,977
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Valve timinig isn't in your list.
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Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 290
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Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Good luck - SHEC |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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My thoughts too are valve lash or distributor..
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Billerica, Ma
Posts: 461
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Mine ticks so loud it almost has a desal engine at idle. It's just there's so much were it dose that. If it stoped ticking I'd be concerened. 20000 -25000 miles last year with all that ticking an no problem I wouldent worrie about it
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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Does it go away when the engine warms up? I have a tick in my coupe when it's cold, but it goes away as the engine gets warmed up. Local expert opinions suggest either piston slap or a cracked/broken ring on #3. I'm going to go with piston slap because my compression readings are good. Maybe next spring I'll take it apart, and check and adjust the valves at that time.
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: London England
Posts: 908
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I would check your valve lifter gaps , and check the timing gear crank gear lash .
Most people don't reccomend that single distributor shaft !! The 2 part one is better John Cochran |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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I don't think it is in the distributor. I completely replaced the distributor, all different parts with another distributor I had rebuilt. This one had the single shaft. Still the same click. So the click seems to be there with either a single shaft or double shaft( original distributor was double shaft)
It does have adjustable lifters. When I installed the "new" engine I just put in, I looked at the valve section. It was not a rebuilt engine but rather one I purchased and I checked it out (big mistake for me to check it) But being not a capable mechanic, I did not check the lifters for proper clearance. When I was checking the engine, I did take off the flywheel and put it back on. I used the same bolts that were in it to put it back on. But I did put in a new (aftermarket) washer in between the flywheel and end of the crank. From what I read on the Barn, this could be a problem area-hope not. The other bolt situation could be the starter like mentioned above. I think I will go out this afternoon and take one bolt loose at a time while it is running and see if that makes a difference. I did use the same bolts that were in the starter when I purchased the engine, but guess it could still be a problem. The last thing I could think of and mentioned above, would be to check the valve gaps. Guess I will have to read the book to see how to go about this unless someone has a simple way to do this. The other thing I did not do when I installed the "new" engine was to take off the head nor did I check the compression. A couple of things this lazy guy did not do. May need to back up and do these. The noise does not change whether it is cold or hot. But is seems to be a little bit less when I put the spark up but is still there. Will keep you all posted. Thanks for the ideas.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster Last edited by Fred K-OR; 11-09-2012 at 06:04 PM. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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What made you take off the flywheel ?? And why did you install a 'washer' between the crank and flywheel ??
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sandy, Oregon
Posts: 34
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Fred, It could be as easy as the camshaft thrust plunger & spring set (A-6275 & A-6276) These get worn and a lot of engine rebuilders don't replace this unit. It then allows the camshaft to move lengthwise back and forth a few thousands. I have just repaired two Model A's making your clicking sound. Just a thought to check.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Homestead, Fl
Posts: 351
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Fred. I'm assuming you errored in saying you put the washer between the crank and the flywheel, right?
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,560
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Have you tried a listening stick?
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Yes I purchased a HF supper duper one. In using it, and I don't really know how to use it, when I touch the distributor, it seems to be the loudest.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Quote:
I took flywheel off because I considered changing the ring gear but then decided the ring gear was not in that bad of shape and left it. Guess the proper term for the "washer" is "spacer plate". I put the new one back in the same way the old one came out.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Quote:
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: santa cruz, calif
Posts: 2,012
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Quote:
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Odessa, NY
Posts: 385
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I bought a used counterweighted engine. Number four weight was ticking the rear edge of the dipper pan part time. Was very difficult to find.
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