Newbe question..1919 touring

[Gary Gregory]

I just got my first model T...1919 Touring, hand crank. I know on a T with a battery the coils buzz when the spark is up and you're ready to start...how do you know the coils are ready with a hand crank Model T ? Do i still need a battery to fire the coils or does the mag do the job while cranking ? I think i have everything wired correctly. Got the car from a barn where it sat for the past 30 yrs. The prev owner started the restroration and then passed away. Think everything will check out ok but want to hear it run before i go any farther. Thanks for the help

[William L. Vanderburg]

Does it have a starter on it? all Model T's are technically "hand crank", but starting in 1919, you could get them with an electric starter on them.

The coils buzz on battery because the communicator (timer) contact is in position to fire one of the cylinders. You hear the buzz because of electrical contact. On magneto start, you will never hear that sound because a non-running magneto doesn't produce electrical ignition. I've tried starting my 25 Touring on mag by hand and it's pretty impossible to spin the motor fast enough to get that to happen. You can connect a 6 volt battery to the coil box, but NOT to the magneto (unless you like the notion of recharging the magnets, direct battery connection to the mag will demagnetize the magneto), and you can start the car.

[tmodelman]

If the magneto is operative, you will be able to hand crank your '19.

The timing should be set for hand cranking, that is important. An you should learn the way of hand cranking a T prior to doing it, as wrist or arm injury from crank rotation on a backfire is no fun.

Make sure the timing is correct first by pulling the front plug and determine top dead center and adjust the timing rod from the commutator (timer) to the lever arm at the base of the steering column. Or an easy way is look at the crank pulley and see that it is horizontal, and rotate/set the commutator by bending the timer rod so that the spark plug just fires at TDC with the spark lever under the steering wheel full retarted. A hand crank T on magneto will need the spark lever to be advanced a few notches, but take care in doing that.

Spin the crank over several times, pulling the choke wire, to get gas into the cyl. Only then switch on the key, to "mag" on the coil box, and attempt the start. Pull the crank up against compression, with the left hand, and don't cup the crank handle with your hand, keep the thumb off the crank handle.

Get the Ford owners manual for the year of your Ford, to read up on hand cranking a magneto T.


Welcome to the world of the Model T, and be safe and have fun!

[Gary Gregory]

This 1919 doesn't have a starter....yet ! I have all the parts to convert it over but lke i said...i wanted to hear it run first before pullng the engine and installing a ring gear. I have a Service Manual on the way which will be a great help.
Thanks..Gary

[J Franklin]

Put a battery in it it will start easier. You will need one anyway when you put the starter in.

[Gary Gregory]

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Thats true...Looking forward to gettin her back in order over the winter months.

[redmodelt]

I think that should be; cup the starting crank with your thumb on the same side as you fingers using your left hand. Good read for a new person;
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/8538.html

[Gary Gregory]

I think its pretty much like cranking my 30 Model A...never grip it with your thumb.

[Steve Jelf]

Here's how to start by hand on BAT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCWnmPrxKo0

Here are a couple of links for any new T owner:

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html.

[John Otis]

I have had plenty of "stem winders" and I personally wouldn't covert it to electric start.

[Steve Jelf]

I have a minor quibble with Dan's comment about being able to start the car by hand if the magneto works. That's true if the magneto is really good, but it's been my experience that sometimes a car will run very well on MAG after you start it but needs a battery to start because the magneto is a little weak. That's the case with the roadster in my video.

[oldmotorsguy]

I also have a 1919 T, and it indeed does start by hand with the key turned to the mag setting - only after it has warmed up. I've tried every possible trick in the book to start it cold on mag with the crank, to include ether: nope. Gotta be warm. I agree with most folks above, at least connect a 6V batter to the coil box and it will start via hand crank much, much easier.

[Gary Gregory]

Thanks...I'll be getting a 6V battery.

[Susanne]

IF you don't have a starter or generator on your car (blocking plates on the hogshead and front right of the motor where the generator goes) you *can* use a 12V battery to fire the coils. I prefer negative ground (as did Henry!) but you're not going to hurt the coils - they're designed to run on 30 VAC off the mag. (Yes, the magneto puts out AC, not DC) Most everyone has a 12V battery around (or jumper cables from modern something or the other to the car)...

I also agree - if it was never an "electric" model I'm not sure I would put a starter/generator on it, just because those are pretty cool cars to have.

BIG WARNING - do NOT hook the battery to the same post coming off the coil box as the mag wire - it's the *other* post!!! If you do, you get to learn all about magnet charging - not *that* big a deal, but a pain, nonetheless!

[Gary Gregory]

Thanks Susanne....I've got a lot to learn...but its going to be fun ! Drove my first Model T yesterday ! My buddy...who is 90 yrs old showed me the ropes in his 26 Touring.

[Susanne]

And so the addiction begins!!!

Couple things, look in your gas tank with a good flashlight for rust. Rust never sleeps, but it will make your car do so (usually at the worst possible moment!). Also, unless someone put later (balloon) tires on your car, the 30x3 1/2's run a *minimum* of 50 PSI, and the spec is actually 70 PSI - this is so the tire "locks" into the clincher rims, and you don't tear off your valve stem. I'm sure you know about oil (a gallon, until it runs out the top petcock, tho perfect is halfway down - how one sees through the pan without one of those aftermarket gauges has always stumped me, tho!!) and when you check your oil, "sniff" a drop between your fingers to make sure you're not gas-contaminated.

Starting - Ignition off, put a block under a wheel and pull the brake up TIGHT. Spark lever up, gas down a couple notches. Pull out the choke (gas on, of course), thumb and fingers UNDER the crank, start (engage) at "9:00" and pull it swiftly to "3:00". Do this 3 or 4 times. Switch on, and repeat "crank" maneuver you may have to hold out the choke until it barks. There's an art to doing this, but once you get it, it will be a piece of cake, and you'l hardly break a sweat! Once it coughs to life, kick the spark lever down and adjust your throttle to an idle. Until you *know* you car do NOT be tempted to "spin" your motor (pushing against compression from 3:00 to 9:00) - this is how most people with T's end up with a nice plaster momento of their car on their right arm!

Talk to the old timer about your spark advance - on a T it means the difference between boiling hard and purring sweetly. And don't worry about asking questions - that's why we're here!!!

Welcome to the insanity!!
Sus

[Gary Gregory]

Thanks again. On the plus side of this little project...it has a brand new gas tank...no rust !!!!