Cleaning oil pan sludge without dropping it- before changing to detergent based oil

[MrTube]

I would like to chime in regarding dropping the oil pan.

Now I'm not a mechanic and I don't work on cars much, however I am an electronic tech and also have experience in refrigeration. I recently installed my own 400lb steam boiler in my home as well which involved breaking apart and reconnecting into 80 yr old steel threaded pipes.


Now all of that said, I considered the two times I did the oil pan on our "A" to be one of the worst jobs I have ever done. Between the gasket not wanting to stay on the block and trying to get everything lined up while fighting the oil pump spring laying on your back it downright stinks. Of course, it may be different on a lift, but most guys don't have a lift I know I certainly don't.

Now I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, I'm just saying don't expect it to be easy or fun.

[Russell in Tulsa]

Those gaskets stay in place real good if you spray them with Copper-Coat. I recently did a '48 Ford flathead alone and had no trouble at all keeping the gaskets where they belonged. Try it, you'l like it.
Russell

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Russell in Tulsa

Those gaskets stay in place real good if you spray them with Copper-Coat...

Even a light coat of chassis lube is usually enough to get the gasket to stay in place when working from below.

[Chris H]

When I pulled my oil pan, I expected the worst when reinstalling the pan and new gaskets. I had the car on jack stands and used a small bottle jack to support the pan, just to hold it in place. I applied a very very light coat of silicone gasket sealant to the engine side of the gaskets to hold them to the block. Made sure the gasket surfaces were clean and free of oil, dirt, and grease. Then just raised the pan in place and adjusted the bottle jack to hold the pan in place while installing the bolts. It was very easy and took about an hour.

I thought it was too easy, and expected to see some leaks. So far so good after about 500 miles or so. I park it over a pan and never see any oil.

Maybe it was beginners luck ???

[cpetku]

I have big hands, so I must be missing something here...

After I pulled the oil pan, I pried out the baffle tray and was able to clean it and the oil pan in the parts washer. It took a small adjustment to the baffle to straighten the edges and a wooden tool (2x4) to re-install.

Why are people afraid to pull the baffle from the pan?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Originally Posted by Chris H

When I pulled my oil pan, I expected the worst when reinstalling the pan and new gaskets. I had the car on jack stands and used a small bottle jack to support the pan, just to hold it in place. I applied a very very light coat of silicone gasket sealant to the engine side of the gaskets to hold them to the block. Made sure the gasket surfaces were clean and free of oil, dirt, and grease. Then just raised the pan in place and adjusted the bottle jack to hold the pan in place while installing the bolts. It was very easy and took about an hour.

I thought it was too easy, and expected to see some leaks. So far so good after about 500 miles or so. I park it over a pan and never see any oil.

Maybe it was beginners luck ???

Naw! Chris, It ain't beginner's luck,
Chief would say, "IT'S SUPER SKILL!"
Keep on wrenchin' Bill W.

[1st_model_a]

Pried the oil pan off. Foolish me I thought it would come loose just by the weight of it. Used slim putty knife all the way around & separated gasket from pan. Had to beat the baffle out of the oil pan. It was stuck in retaining grooves. Question is: after cleaning the pan can see some beginnings of rust. Is this to be expected? Do I need to do anything to the pan before I put it back together? Attached pix of oil pan.