Pedal Shaft Removal (Bell housing pin)

[scokeing]

Need some help:
I’m going thru the brake system on my 30 Tudor and found play in the brake pedal. I was able to remove the brake and clutch pedal however need advice on removing the Petal Shaft Retainer Pin. (See Photo)
Is there a simple way to remove the pin in the bell housing so I can replace the worn shaft.

Also I need to remove the grease fitting in both pedals to drill a hole thru the new bushings once installed. Are these pressed in and how do I remove and reinstall.

Thanks
Scott

brake pedal rod.JPG

[Tom Wesenberg]

Don't you press in 2 bushings per pedal and leave a small space between them for grease? If so, you don't need to remove the grease fitting.

[scokeing]

Hi Tom
Possibly, but according to Les Andrews Vol 1, pg 1-232 step 7 states remove the fittings and drill a 19/64" hold and reinstall the bushing.
I looked at my current set up and there is a gap between the clutch bearings but the brake bushing butt together and a hole is drilled.

Any thoughts on the pin removal, the shaft really needs to be replaced.
Thanks
Scott

[Tom Endy]

It is hard to tell from your photo if the bell housing is still in the car or sitting on a work bench. I have restored countless numbers of them, but all were on a work bench. people say they can replace the pedal shaft with the bell housing in the car, but I would never attempt it as you could encounter difficulty.

There are two types of retaining pin, a tapered pin and the round headed pin like you have. I believe the tapered pin was the later version.

The end of your pin on the inside of the housing is mushroomed over. I use a pnumatic grinder and grind the mushroom off. Then with a punch I drive it out from the inside. I use a long punch to drive the pedal shaft out from the inside as well. Some pedal shafts can be in there extremely tight. For these I use a pusher tool I made up that bolts to the trans mounting holes and has a large bolt that shoves the pedal shaft out. Some people cut the shaft off and drive it in with a punch from the outside. I always install the new pedal shaft with a tapered pin driven in from the outside. Bratton has them. When you install the new pedal shaft accurately line up the holes, making certain you are installing the correct end. Do not hammer on the end of the shaft as you will mushroom it and will not be able to get the pedals back on.

It is also a good idea to replace the clutch release shaft and the two bushings in the bell housing while you are reworking the bell housing. Drive the pin in the yoke out and you will be able to pull the shaft out. The housing bushings are the same part number that goes in both pedals. You can get all the old bushings out by splitting them with a hacksaw blade and curling them out with a pair of long nose pliers, but you will need a bushing driver tool to properly install the new bushings without mushrooming the ends. You will probably also need a reamer to size the bushings once installed.

To get the grease fitting out clamp it tightly with a pair of vice grips at its base and twist it back and forth. It may bugger the fitting up, but replacemens are available and there is a proper tool avalible to drive the new one into place. Bratton has both. When you install new bushings in the pedals grind a "V" into the inboard ends of both bushing and insert them so they leave an opening for the hole the grease fitting goes in.

Tom Endy

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

When you install new bushings in the pedals grind a "V" into the inboard ends of both bushing and insert them so they leave an opening for the hole the grease fitting goes in.

Tom Endy

I assume this is instead of drilling a hole through the bushing wall after it is pressed in place?

[scokeing]

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Thanks for the instructions and tips Tom, that’s what I needed.
Yes, the bell housing is still attached to the car and was “hoping” for a simple fix. Looks like today I will have to learn how to remove the bell housing, would you recommend transmission out or motor out to access this part.
The car/motor is mid, July, 30 it that makes a differnce in the pin type.
Thanks
Scott

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[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by scokeing

Thanks for the instructions and tips Tom, that’s what I needed.
Yes, the bell housing is still attached to the car and was “hoping” for a simple fix. Looks like today I will have to learn how to remove the bell housing, would you recommend transmission out or motor out to access this part.
The car/motor is mid, July, 30 it that makes a differnce in the pin type.
Thanks
Scott

Pulling either the engine or the rear end is a personal choice. I would rather pull the rear end any day as it is much easier for me. You should locate a proper spring spreader to spread the rear spring. It is best to detach the spring at the shackles and leave it in the car where it is safe. Give the rear spring a healthy respect, as it can be lethal. you can leave the spring spreader in place until you are ready to install the rear end.

While you have the bell housing out it is a good time to inspect the trans and at least replace the five bearings. Also rebuild the tower. Neither is difficult. Go to www.ocmafc.org and on the left menu click on "tech articles" and go to "Tom Endy's articles" and click, there are a number of articles about the trans and a tutorial about rebuilding the tower.

Someone asked why grind the "V" in the pedal bushing? This so you do not have to remove the grease fitting. If you remove it and drill a hole in the bushing it will leave a burr on the inside you will have to deal with in order to get the pedal back on the shaft. You can grind the "V" by using the edge of a grinding wheel.

When you go to install the new pedal shaft you will find that some slip in easy and others have to be driven or pressed in. Once you have the two holes lined up place a piece of wood 2X4 over the end of the shaft and tap on that so as not to mushroom the end.

Tom Endy