Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Early V8 (1932-53)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 02-04-2012, 02:42 PM   #19
blown49
Senior Member
 
blown49's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Union, Ohio
Posts: 113
Default Re: Valve differences

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Ron View Post
Thanks, I printed this info for future use. FYI the amt of material removed fron seat grinding will have little or know affect on spring pressure. Stainsles steal valves are bad for cast guides unless chrome plated. Most aftermarket guides are too oose for the valve. Knurling and fitting the valves to .0005-.001" stem clearance prevents oil contamination of the combustion chamber.
A thin coating of RTV on the guide is all that's necessary cor intake guide seal. Harden seats on the intake valves is un-necessary.
This is most of the valve info I have.
Ron, I probably didn't explain things very well, so I'll try again.

If I grind the seat 0.020" (verticaly) then the valve sits lower in the block. Since the horseshoe clip rests against the bottom of the deck guide bore, the guide is in the same position as it was before the seat was ground. As the valve sits lower by 0.020" the spring is lengthed by 0.020" also and thereby lowers valve seat pressure requiring shims.

Jim
__________________
Visit my Blown '49 Merc website @ http://www.blown49.com
blown49 is offline   Reply With Quote
 


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:14 PM.