The Ford Barn

Bored&Stroked · 05-02-2026, 11:23 AM

I use a PTFE gasket sealer from ARP. I believe it is important to put the studs in and let them SET for awhile - before running the engine. I do like the ARP studs in that they have a place for a HEX/Allen key in the end of them. This makes it possible to install/remove them with the head on. For anybody who has struggled with studs and aluminum heads (seizing), this makes a lot of sense. Also, the ARP studs do not stretch (much) - so your torque values hold up.

Andi-Seize: I always put anti-seize on the sides of the studs before I put the heads on and I use correct ARP lubricant on the nuts/washers (fine thread side) to ensure that I have good torque readings.

Moroso Ceramic Seal: Given that in some cases the coarse block threads are a bit worn through rust and potentially incorrect taps being used, you still might see some "weaping/leaks" on some studs. Due to this, when I originally fire up a new engine (and before any anti-freeze or other water adders), I run a can of Moroso Ceramic Seal through the engine during initial warm-up. This is a great insurance policy in general for a newly built flathead. Sometimes I do it twice (2 sessions).

I highly recommend this procedure for helping to prevent head-stud/bolt leaks and also to potentially help prevent a small leak problem with a repaired crack "iron tight stitch" or sleeve in the machining process.

05-02-2026, 11:23 AM	#3
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,906	Re: head stud seal and install I use a PTFE gasket sealer from ARP. I believe it is important to put the studs in and let them SET for awhile - before running the engine. I do like the ARP studs in that they have a place for a HEX/Allen key in the end of them. This makes it possible to install/remove them with the head on. For anybody who has struggled with studs and aluminum heads (seizing), this makes a lot of sense. Also, the ARP studs do not stretch (much) - so your torque values hold up. Andi-Seize: I always put anti-seize on the sides of the studs before I put the heads on and I use correct ARP lubricant on the nuts/washers (fine thread side) to ensure that I have good torque readings. Moroso Ceramic Seal: Given that in some cases the coarse block threads are a bit worn through rust and potentially incorrect taps being used, you still might see some "weaping/leaks" on some studs. Due to this, when I originally fire up a new engine (and before any anti-freeze or other water adders), I run a can of Moroso Ceramic Seal through the engine during initial warm-up. This is a great insurance policy in general for a newly built flathead. Sometimes I do it twice (2 sessions). I highly recommend this procedure for helping to prevent head-stud/bolt leaks and also to potentially help prevent a small leak problem with a repaired crack "iron tight stitch" or sleeve in the machining process.