Lifter won't stay in adjustment.

[flathead4rd]

8-CM Merc engine. 296 C.I. 3-3/8 X 4-1/16. Potvin Cam and lifters. Lifter on #2 won't hold it's valve lash. I'm thinking of two options. #1 back the lifter adjusting bolt out as much possible and distress the threads with a small chisel or punch. #2 Use Red or Blue thread sealer on on the adjuster threads. I don't want to remove the head again if I can avoid it. Thanks .

[Ronnieroadster]

Use the Red Locktite and try to remove as much oil as possible. To remove the oil i suggest brake cleaner spraying into the treaded area of the lifter. If you can extend the adjuster high enough to expose the undercut threaded area that would help clean the oil from some of the lifter body threads. And this area would allow the Locktite to be applied onto those clean threads in the lifter body. Be careful to not extend to far out when you see that undercut area go maybe two revolutions more for the undercut area if your able to get the adjuster out that far.
Ronnieroadster

[tubman]

Isn't Green Loc-Tite specifically intended for uses such as this? It is described as "a low-viscosity, medium-to-high strength "wicking" anaerobic threadlocker designed for post-assembly application". I have never had occasion to use it, but with the great strides made in chemistry lately, I wouldn't be surprised if they haven't come up with something newer and better.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by tubman

Isn't Green Loc-Tite specifically intended for uses such as this? It is described as "a low-viscosity, medium-to-high strength "wicking" anaerobic threadlocker designed for post-assembly application". I have never had occasion to use it, but with the great strides made in chemistry lately, I wouldn't be surprised if they haven't come up with something newer and better.

There’s 2 green. What number are you referring to?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

There’s 2 green. What number are you referring to?

I was just throwing out something I was aware of, although I had spent some time checking it out and verifying that my conjecture was indeed correct (notice the quotation I included). At this time, I would yield to your knowledge, which from your comment would seem to be more extensive than mine. Can you elucidate? If not, I'm sure that the O/P or anyone seriously interested can proceed to research the matter further. I have added all I can (or feel qualified to).

[GB SISSON]

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I have spent quite a bit of time on this subject, having had problems with offshore lifters in the past. For problems after the engine is installed, the loctite is a really good solution. I have never run a performance cam, but for those of you that do, I hear that the adjuster bolt needs to be threaded pretty far out. This minimizes the interference fit and adds to the problem of loose lifters. I have done some experiments with a jamb nut and find that by shaving the top of an original Johnson lifter type by maybe .010 in the lathe, I can use one of these thin jamb nuts with a stock cam. But with a high lift cam (when you need it most) I think there is room without altering the lifter at all. Would be interested in knowing how much room you ,and others have under the adjuster bolt. I will measure the thickness of the jamb nuts in the morning. I have a box of 200

[Mart]

My experience is that the locking mechanism on the threads loses effectiveness when the bolt is too far in or too far out. There is a part in the middle of the bolt with no threads. The bolt gets crushed during manufacture to create a mismatch between the upper and lower threads. If the crushed part is not well within the threaded part of the lifter body the bolt will not be tight. If the bolt is too far in the head of the bolt can be skimmed on the lathe. If too far out some sort of thin lock nut could be employed.
I try not to adjust them too often.
Unfortunately all the above would require head / valve removal.
So with all that said, maybe some loctite would be a good idea!

Mart.

[glennpm]

Green Loctite seems ideal for this application.

https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-290-en_GL.pdf

LOCTITE® 290 is a green, medium-high strength threadlocker designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Because of its low viscosity, the product wicks between engaged threads by caplillary action and eliminates the need for disassembly prior to application. The anaerobic adhesive cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. Because of its flowable properties, the product is also suitable for sealing porosities in welds, castings and powdered metal parts.

Specifications
Brand: Loctite
Strength: Medium to High
Viscosity: 55 cP
Cure Time: 24 hrs.
Color: Green

Prevents fastener loosening on vibrating assemblies, e.g., pumps, gear boxes, presses
Ideal for locking preassembled fasteners, e.g. instrumentation fasteners, electrical connectors and set screws
Seals porosities in welds, castings and powdered metal parts
Requires heat for disassembly
Meets Mil Spec: Mil-S-46163A Type III Grade R

[jimTN]

There are two types of lifters. One has a standard thin head on the bolt and the other has a thick head. The thick head lifters are meant for reground cams the other for std lift and tractors.

[flathead4rd]

Many thanks to all of you guys that responded to my post. I will keep all of you posted on my progress and what method I end up using. I wasn't aware there was a Green Loctite
also. Probably be one or two days before I tackle it again. Still cold here in Michigan.

[Bored&Stroked]

If I'm working with older/rebuilt Johnson style lifters . . . or really any of them, I first put one in the engine with the associated cam and a valve setup and determine what the approximate length needs to be. Then I take it out and use a dial-caliper to measure it.

Then I put every lifter in the vice (with wooden blocks) and adjust them to approximately the same length. I check and see if any of them have what I'll call "too loose of adjusters".

Given that the adjusters are "squished" just a bit to cause an interference fit between the upper and lower threads, I will but the lifter in a big vice and compress the adjuster just a bit. This will increase the interference fit and tighten up the adjuster. It only takes a bit of compression (next time I'll measure how much!).

Now, this is 1/2 art and 1/2 science (it depends on your skill!) . . . if you compress it too much, you're screwed! You'll need another adjuster to start over with.

Another method would be using a hydraulic press - not using too much pressure.

Anyway, that is my method . . .

B&S

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

If I'm working with older/rebuilt Johnson style lifters . . . or really any of them, I first put one in the engine with the associated cam and a valve setup and determine what the approximate length needs to be. Then I take it out
Anyway, that is my method . . .

B&S

Thanks for this tip and all the other great experience you give all of us.

[Flathead Fever]

I've heard about how bad the new adjustable lifters are that I've been buying NOS real Johnson adjustable lifters instead of the new ones. They don't come up for sale too often, but I try to grab them when they do. I have a couple sets of brand-new original Johnson's plus at least 20 core engines, about have of those have old adjustable in them, I could have those reground if I ever get desperate. I would think some good thread locker would hold the adjustment on the new versions.

[GB SISSON]

I have come to believe that everything negative we have heard about the offshore 'new' lifters is true. I also believe like Flathead Fever, that locktite will cure the loose adjuster bolt in the new type. I too have been collecting original Johnsons at the few swapmeets I attend, and am getting pretty good at compressing the bolts in the vice and testing with my little torque wrench at 60 in/lbs. It can get a bit unnerving getting them to 60, so in my 276 build I settled on 40 as that was so much tighter than how they feel right outa the coffee can.
I started my wrenching oddessy almost 60 years ago with small engines, later Japanese and British motorcycles, then VWs, and toyotas, both four and six cylinder types. I adjusted a lot of valves. I have only worked on one engine with hydraulic lifters, and that was sooo confusing.
Lately I have been talking a lot about utilizing a jamb nut on a johnson (or offshore) lifter. Some of you are getting tired of hearing about it, but really in all these years of the damn things bouncing up and down on rocker arms, some of which were on honda motorcycles with a 10k redline, I never pulled a cover and found a loose jamb nut. Ever. And there was no torque specified, just tighten.

My son just appeared towing the big 8 way log splitter from his work and needs help on the repair, so I'll end this post with 2 photos and get back later. Feedback is good, and the short one is at exactly what a handfull of Henry's are. There is room to shorten a bit on threads.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I have come to believe that everything negative we have heard about the offshore 'new' lifters is true. I also believe like Flathead Fever, that locktite will cure the loose adjuster bolt in the new type. I too have been collecting original Johnsons at the few swapmeets I attend, and am getting pretty good at compressing the bolts in the vice and testing with my little torque wrench at 60 in/lbs. It can get a bit unnerving getting them to 60, so in my 276 build I settled on 40 as that was so much tighter than how they feel right outa the coffee can.
I started my wrenching oddessy almost 60 years ago with small engines, later Japanese and British motorcycles, then VWs, and toyotas, both four and six cylinder types. I adjusted a lot of valves. I have only worked on one engine with hydraulic lifters, and that was sooo confusing.
Lately I have been talking a lot about utilizing a jamb nut on a johnson (or offshore) lifter. Some of you are getting tired of hearing about it, but really in all these years of the damn things bouncing up and down on rocker arms, some of which were on honda motorcycles with a 10k redline, I never pulled a cover and found a loose jamb nut. Ever. And there was no torque specified, just tighten.

My son just appeared towing the big 8 way log splitter from his work and needs help on the repair, so I'll end this post with 2 photos and get back later. Feedback is good, and the short one is at exactly what a handfull of Henry's are. There is room to shorten a bit on threads.

[GB SISSON]

Thank you 'Pete the Enlarger'. Maybe someday I'll make myself a set of these, Don't forget I'm the guy that made a set of teflon buttons with my router for holding my wrist pins in place on a 59ab. Going strong in the '47 log truck over on the mainland.

[Drbrown]

Don't see it mentioned here but remember an old post wherein the fellow used a small pointed punch to "upset" the threads on the threaded shaft just enough to feel the threaded shaft binding when turning the shaft. I never needed to deal with this issue but apparently the technic worked for him.

[electricman]

To upset the threads I have had good luck with using a vice grip grabbing teeth adjusted until the thread is just scored to give some good resistance keeping anything from backing out.

[richard crow]

drbrown has it right if the lifter is in a running eng

[tubman]

I bought a set of NOS 8BA lifters from Southside Obsolete a few years ago. Lighter, probably made of better materials, and they never go out of adjustment.