Saginaw 4 speed 10” press. Plate to 48 merc fly wheel

[Cptkoberg]

I am looking for information on which diaphragm style pressure plate will bolt up to a 48 Merc fly wheel. It has the Six bolt holes that are 3 1/8” apart. I’ve been running this setup for quite some time but have been unable to locate any documents that will help and there is no identification data on my current plate.

Thanks for any help.

[Gene1949]

Give the guys over @ CenterForce a call. Their website is difficult but their tech guys are top notch. I bought a complete package for my T-10

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by Cptkoberg

I am looking for information on which diaphragm style pressure plate will bolt up to a 48 Merc fly wheel. It has the Six bolt holes that are 3 1/8” apart. I’ve been running this setup for quite some time but have been unable to locate any documents that will help and there is no identification data on my current plate.

Thanks for any help.

I know there are diaphragms that match the 3 1/8" Long style clutch bolt pattern on your Mercury flywheel. You can try NAPA that used to offer them, or clutch re-builders like Fort Wayne Clutch and South Bend Clutch, and the aftermarket like Centerforce, Mcleod, Ram etc. The other alternatives are having your flywheel drilled for a normal evenly spaced diaphragm bolt pattern or purchasing a new flywheel that has multi patterns pre-drilled.

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

clutch re-builders like Fort Wayne Clutch and South Bend Clutch,

see many of the posters on this board and the bad experiences with both. At one time there were the "go to" for the purests here. Lots of the guy like wearing out their wrenches and jacks I guess

and the aftermarket like Centerforce, Mcleod, Ram etc.

I would deal with CenterForce again. I would suggest their "duel friction" disc. Ceramic on the flywheel side and organic on the PP side. Their PP is easy on old knees and good for 500hp. Same 10" clutch in my brand X '69 Camaro with a 410" BBC w/Muncie and the 8BA w/T10 in the '49

The other alternatives are having your flywheel drilled for a normal evenly spaced diaphragm bolt pattern or purchasing a new flywheel that has multi patterns pre-drilled.

Given todays prices on custom machine work (and don't forget the balancing) I would think a new unit would be comparably priced. The CenterForce flywheel I have is drilled for just about any PP application

While you are there you might as well get an small parts kit with synchros and bearings.

[Cptkoberg]

Thanks all for the information! After finding a LuK data number stamped on the housing, we checked with NAPA and Centerforce and neither were able to help. So we then entered the information into ChatGPT and were able to find a matching McLeod product within minutes. Gotta love technology!

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by Cptkoberg

Thanks all for the information! After finding a LuK data number stamped on the housing, we checked with NAPA and Centerforce and neither were able to help. So we then entered the information into ChatGPT and were able to find a matching McLeod product within minutes. Gotta love technology!

Because of previous experience with such things, would you do us the favor of confirming that it fits when you receive it? Thank you in advance.

[V8 Bob]

Gene,
I know Fort Wayne Clutch has had "bad experiences" but I've never seen or heard about any with South Bend Clutch, our local re-builder, who I've dealt with for many years.

I do agree about using a new flywheel, and also use a Centerforce for the reasons you state.
Bob

[Cptkoberg]

So the PP that AI recommended arrived today and is a near perfect replacement. It seems to be an early Mustang PP. So far, all the measurements match up. Hope to get it installed next week, and then just waiting on transmission shop to finish up inspection of the Saginaw. Fingers crossed they don’t find any issues.

[tubman]

Thanks for the confirmation. It should be of value to a lot of folks.

[FritzJr]

@Cptkoberg, please share the LUK part number with us.

[Cptkoberg]

It was LuK 2595900 20. There were a few numbers after that but unidentifiable. After putting in specifics like 10 in disc, diaphragm type clutch, 3 1/8 inch mounting hole separation, etc. ChatGPT led us to the McLeod 360030 pressure plate which seems to be mainly for a 79-85 Mustang. After speaking with McLeod they recommended the 260146 clutch disc as well. Once everything showed up I started taking measurements and everything was almost exact. Everything is currently mounted and now just waiting for Saginaw to be finished up at transmission shop. Didn’t have any issues but while it is out I’m just having them go through it. Will post how everything turns out once all back together.

[38 coupe]

Thank you for the part number to the pressure plate. Are you using the original type throw out bearing (clutch release bearing), or are you using a different bearing?
Link to the pressure plate on McLeod website: https://www.mcleodracing.com/diaphra...te-360030/p116

[Cptkoberg]

Using the original style. Replacing the old one with a new one from Speedway.

[32phil]

I have had the engine/trans out of my 32 5W 3 times. The last time was because the early Ford throw out carrier was hitting the fingers on the diaphragm Pressure Plate by just a tiny bit. It certainly made a lot of noise when you stepped on the clutch.
It was a 50 Merc so I replaced the Pressure Plate with a Borg and Beck unit.
All is quiet and happy now.

[Cptkoberg]

I ran into the same problem as 32phil. I think we are going to machine off a few mm of the TO carrier so the PP fingers will only make contact with the bearing. McLeod said they do not have a bearing large enough for the ford carrier. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

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IMG_1719.jpg

[Bored&Stroked]

When I originally talked to RAM clutches about a custom flywheel and PP for my 32 Cabriolet, the production manager was initially looking at a diaphragm clutch for my application. (Very experienced dude)

I mentioned to him that in my experience, the diaphragm clutch plates finger designs were not compatible with the big-ass throw-out bearing width of our early Ford transmissions.

He hadn't considered that - so he setup their diaphragm plates with an early Ford throw-out bearing in a test jig - sure as Hell, the OD of the throw-out bearing hit the clutch fingers OFF of the TIPS when it was depressed. This is NOT correct and is a big problem. (As you can see in the above pictures, that is exactly what is happening). It would take a completely different diaphragm finger design to deal with this issue - RAM had none that would work.

Once he saw the issue, he checked all their diaphragm PPs - every one had the issue.

Due to this, we went back to a LONG style PP.

If any of you guys find a PP manufacturer that has a diaphragm style PP that is compatible with our big early Ford throw-out bearings, I'd like to know!

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Cptkoberg

I ran into the same problem as 32phil. I think we are going to machine off a few mm of the TO carrier so the PP fingers will only make contact with the bearing. McLeod said they do not have a bearing large enough for the ford carrier. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Attachment 585957

Attachment 585958

Attachment 585959

I'm not sure what you are speaking about as far as machining goes? From what I see, it is the FACE of the TO bearing that is hitting the fingers PAST the tips - which is incorrect. I don't see any way to fix this - given the shape of the 'fingers'?

[petehoovie]

[QUOTE=Cptkoberg;2452645]I ran into the same problem as 32phil. I think we are going to machine off a few mm of the TO carrier so the PP fingers will only make contact with the bearing. McLeod said they do not have a bearing large enough for the ford carrier. Any other ideas would be appreciated.QUOTE]

[Cptkoberg]

In the photo of the bearing, the heat friction color is part of the carrier that the bearing presses onto. That part does not rotate and is striking the tips of the fingers. That’s the part we are thinking of shortening to eliminate any contact between the carrier and fingers. You can see in the photo of the LUK plate that the shiny wear pattern is just fine. That PP was installed around 1996. So I never had an issue with the O.D. Of the bearing. Since 96 I only replaced the TO bearing once before and no issues on the face of the bearing itself or of the fingers from OD contact. It was only due to the internals of the bearing itself making noise from age.

[Bored&Stroked]

If it is hitting the inner carrier, then cutting that back should work.