What type of alternator is this on my 40 Ford.

[Bazooka Joe]

I’m wanting to replace my alternator, doesn’t seem to be charging battery, less than 13 volts at idle. Did not check at 2000 RPM. I think it’s a 10 Si but have numbers that possibly say 6ML.

What would be a replacement if I went to a auto store, as I want to keep the same type/style.

Car Idling with headlight on reading 12.04 volts at battery.

Battery brand new, replaced a 8 year old battery.

Alternator is a Delco-Remy.

How many wires is this alternator, is it considered a one wire or two, as there are two wires going to the side of the Alternator, though one wire goes to Batt. on the Alternator.

Are there rebuilt kits for this Alternator, is there a particular year run for this Alternator.


Engine is a Chevy 350 car is 12 volt negative ground.

What is this black box, one wire goes into the car, haven’t really traced the wirings yet, does this connect to the Alternator?

It looks like at least the dash gauges are 6 volt as I can see voltage reducers under the dash. Is this black box part of the voltage reducers to run dash gauges?

Thank You

[ford38v8]

Joe, we know you love your Ford, and we here on the FordBarn are happy to answer your questions about your Ford, but please, Joe, when on the Barn, keep your hood closed?

[51504bat]

Nice looking Ford. Lots of GM alternator info here. And FWIW there are many flatheads running GM alternators and I don't see anyone telling them to keep their hood closed. JMO
https://alternatorparts.com/how-to-i...lternator.html

[uncle buck]

Napa Rayloc 213-4011B is what it is for a replacement

[cas3]

Well, after Allens response, I'll try to help. It looks like the common 10 SI, that should be stamped on the case near the volts/amp rating. The white wire looped around to the power post makes it a one wire alt. The black wire will go to battery, but should be switched so it will not run the ignition off the alt after you turn off the key. Originally, that white wire went to the idiot light in the dash. Some folks wire it that way so you don't have to bring up RPM's to trigger it to start charging. There are a few different ways to wire the 10 SI, a google search will bring up diagrams.

No idea what the home made black box is, you'll have to trace the wires to figger out what they had in mind.

[ford38v8]

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Originally Posted by 51504bat

Nice looking Ford. Lots of GM alternator info here. And FWIW there are many flatheads running GM alternators and I don't see anyone telling them to keep their hood closed. JMO
https://alternatorparts.com/how-to-i...lternator.html

Do we really have to debate GM alternators and Chevy 350’s on the FordBarn?

[cas3]

Not debating anything. its a nice car, and the man is asking for help. If thats a problem you should click the back button.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by cas3

Not debating anything. its a nice car, and the man is asking for help. If thats a problem you should click the back button.

Well said

[tubman]

I believe that questions like this should be directed to the HA.M.B. (although alternators are almost O/T there as well) or some other more appropriate forum. It's better for everybody, as the O/P will probably get more and better answers to his questions, and the purists won't have to sort through a lot of O/T blather.

[ford38v8]

I had no intention of causing a storm. The alternator was one thing, but attached to a 350 was too much. I was as polite in my response as could be, but then, perhaps the Barn is evolving faster than I'm keeping up?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

I had no intention of causing a storm. The alternator was one thing, but attached to a 350 was too much. I was as polite in my response as could be, but then, perhaps the Barn is evolving faster than I'm keeping up?

I think your response was appropriate and inoffensive. This IS "The Ford Barn" with it's specific goals and rules, and if we don't try to keep things on topic someone else may do it for us, which is never good.

Perhaps The Ford Barn is evolving, but not to off-brand engine swaps

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by tubman

I think your response was appropriate and inoffensive. This IS "The Ford Barn" with it's specific goals and rules, and if we don't try to keep things on topic someone else may do it for us, which is never good.

Perhaps The Ford Barn is evolving, but not to off-brand engine swaps

Thanks for the support. I was beginning to think I was the odd man out.

[Bazooka Joe]

Originally Posted by uncle buck

Napa Rayloc 213-4011B is what it is for a replacement

Yes! Thankx! That’s the info I was looking for….

[Bazooka Joe]

Originally Posted by cas3

Well, after Allens response, I'll try to help. It looks like the common 10 SI, that should be stamped on the case near the volts/amp rating. The white wire looped around to the power post makes it a one wire alt. The black wire will go to battery, but should be switched so it will not run the ignition off the alt after you turn off the key. Originally, that white wire went to the idiot light in the dash. Some folks wire it that way so you don't have to bring up RPM's to trigger it to start charging. There are a few different ways to wire the 10 SI, a google search will bring up diagrams.

No idea what the home made black box is, you'll have to trace the wires to figger out what they had in mind.

Yes,..Thank You!,…that’s the info I was looking for. There is a kill switch on the passenger side floor that I religiously turn on/off

[Bazooka Joe]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Nice looking Ford. Lots of GM alternator info here. And FWIW there are many flatheads running GM alternators and I don't see anyone telling them to keep their hood closed. JMO
https://alternatorparts.com/how-to-i...lternator.html

Thank you for the site,….

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by tubman

I believe that questions like this should be directed to the HA.M.B. (although alternators are almost O/T there as well) or some other more appropriate forum. It's better for everybody, as the O/P will probably get more and better answers to his questions, and the purists won't have to sort through a lot of O/T blather.

The year cut off for the HAMB is 1965 and earlier. My '65 Ford Falcon with a 289 had an alternator stock so alternators are not O/T on the HAMB.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Bazooka Joe

Thank you for the site,….

Joe,
I'd never witnessed an alternator that did not have an identification number stamped into the case. With that number, a decent counter person at NAPA can quickly look it up and tell you the EXACY (original) application and the modern equivalent. Now, to find a decent counter person...that may be tough.

[Gene1949]

Gee wizz guys, give the man a break. Nobody really cares who is the better “purist”. He asked a simple question.. Anyways,
I would wire it correctly according to GM. The 1 wire does work but you will be a lot happier with the idoit light and sensing wire setup. Lot better performance at low RPMs like our flatties run. Also install the smallest pully you can find. That also helps at low rpms.

https://www.sbmar.com/uncategorized/...yIVEEg2JSz1z1U

[Bazooka Joe]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

Gee wizz guys, give the man a break. Nobody really cares who is the better “purist”. He asked a simple question.. Anyways,
I would wire it correctly according to GM. The 1 wire does work but you will be a lot happier with the idoit light and sensing wire setup. Lot better performance at low RPMs like our flatties run. Also install the smallest pully you can find. That also helps at low rpms.

https://www.sbmar.com/uncategorized/...yIVEEg2JSz1z1U

Shows different amp. rating the 10Si, reason for wanting what I have. I’ll also consider dealing with this place, as they seem more professional grade.

https://alternatorparts.com/how-to-i...lternator.html

Thank You…

[TJ]

Kube , your last sentence was spot on! Not only finding a competent one but finding one willing to do the research.