Toe in adjustment on stock front end 40 Ford car

[Bazooka Joe]

How do you adjust the toe in, spec. call for a 1/16” maximum. I have a good bit more.

There is no backup nut, like on modern cars, all I see is two clamps on each side of the tie rod. I get it that needs to be loosened, then what happens, you turn the bar one way or the other? What about the drag link, how does that figure in?

Does it need to be removed from the steering box pitman arm as there is no clamp where it connects to the pitman arm, or I need to knock it out with a splitter by the passenger side arm that the tie rod hooks, and you turn the drag link itself then reinstall and secure also?

Thank You

[KiWinUS]

Correct on loosening the clamp each side on tire rod to set toe. The drag link adjustment is then used to center steering wheel.

[Bazooka Joe]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Correct on loosening the clamp each side on tire rod to set toe. The drag link adjustment is then used to center steering wheel.

Okay, Thank You!

[GB SISSON]

There are many ways to adjust toe-in in the home shop. This is my method, and there are certainly other ways that work. We know that tires are not perfect. They have bulges and other irregularities. I place jack stands under front axle, just off the ground. Repair any slop in joints or king pins and adjust any slack out of the wheel bearings. With that all settled, I spin a tire and spray paint the center of the tread with light color. Next take a flat wood scrap and drive a nail or sheetrock screw through near the center. Now place the board on the floor, point up near the center of the tread and introduce it into the spinning tire. You will create a nice true line scribed around the tread. Best to have a helper next for the measuring part, but if not, I use a pair of sticks vice gripped together with pointers near the ends. Last note is I find our old vehicles respond well to 1/8" toe in. Tires will wear a bit sooner, but I have 4 old rigs and it's pretty seasonal here, so I doubt it will be a problem. Hope this helps someone.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

There are many ways to adjust toe-in in the home shop. This is my method, and there are certainly other ways that work. We know that tires are not perfect. They have bulges and other irregularities. I place jack stands under front axle, just off the ground. Repair any slop in joints or king pins and adjust any slack out of the wheel bearings. With that all settled, I spin a tire and spray paint the center of the tread with light color. Next take a flat wood scrap and drive a nail or sheetrock screw through near the center. Now place the board on the floor, point up near the center of the tread and introduce it into the spinning tire. You will create a nice true line scribed around the tread. Best to have a helper next for the measuring part, but if not, I use a pair of sticks vice gripped together with pointers near the ends. Last note is I find our old vehicles respond well to 1/8" toe in. Tires will wear a bit sooner, but I have 4 old rigs and it's pretty seasonal here, so I doubt it will be a problem. Hope this helps someone.

Gary, That's pretty much the same method I use, and about the ⅛" toe-in, I believe the spec of 1/16" refers to each wheel, so ⅛" total for both would be correct, and is what i have used with success.

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by ford38v8

Gary, That's pretty much the same method I use, and about the ⅛" toe-in, I believe the spec of 1/16" refers to each wheel, so ⅛" total for both would be correct, and is what i have used with success.

I believe you are correct. I tend to make it slightly more than the maximum specification.
It makes a big difference in the handling, and the wheels will come back to center easier and a tad more promptly.
I suppose an argument could be made that the tires will wear slightly quicker with my adjustment. However, in the real world, the tires will age out before they wear out.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Kube

I believe you are correct. I tend to make it slightly more than the maximum specification.
....
However, in the real world, the tires will age out before they wear out.

Boy, ain't that the truth!.

[Bazooka Joe]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Gary, That's pretty much the same method I use, and about the ⅛" toe-in, I believe the spec of 1/16" refers to each wheel, so ⅛" total for both would be correct, and is what i have used with success.

I went by this, though I’m slightly more than 1/16”….

[cas3]

I do it like GB also, but use tape and a marker for the line. A long time ago I made a couple pointers that slide on 1/2" water pipe so you can do it yourself. It is faster and easier with 2 people and a tape measure though.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by cas3

I do it like GB also, but use tape and a marker for the line. A long time ago I made a couple pointers that slide on 1/2" water pipe so you can do it yourself. It is faster and easier with 2 people and a tape measure though.

[flatford8]

I agree with everybody on using 1/8”…. I made a set of these because I always work alone…it looks like you have something similar in your pics….

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I agree with everybody on using 1/8”…. I made a set of these because I always work alone…it looks like you have something similar in your pics….

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I agree with everybody on using 1/8”…. I made a set of these because I always work alone…it looks like you have something similar in your pics….

I like your idea but for the distance between the two tape measures. The toe-in spec is measured at the full diameter of the tires, front and back. Yours looks to be somewhat less than that which if extended out, would measure an exaggerated amount, probably not a great amount, but you should know exactly what you have.

[Eagle43]

I assume that the specs are for bias ply tires. Would radial specs be the same?

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Eagle43

I assume that the specs are for bias ply tires. Would radial specs be the same?

That’s a question for a modern man. Me, I’m still in the bias tire world.
(Sheesh) Next thing, someone will ask how to convert a vacuum tube radio to some newfangled music machine that doesn’t hum in time with the ignition.

[GB SISSON]

The more I look at Mark's (Flatford) setup, the more I like it. I would not be surprised if his spread is about right for a 6.50x16. In Pete's top photo we see the tapes getting closer like RR track in a picture, so it's really impossible to tell for sure. If they don't reflect that then the rest of us can start with longer angle pcs and cut a nice long slot with a cutoff wheel etc. Could mark out tire diameters on the angle for placing the tapes. Being a self taught, still learning welder, I tend to use too much heat and warp stuff, so for me I'd first set toe at zero with them bolted on as pictured, then invert them and see if still reading zero. If needed I'd tweak in vise. With Mark's device, one person can watch those spring loaded tapes and dial in the perfect 1/8". And I use 1/8" on radials too.

[51woodie]

I cheated and took my '46 Coupe to the local Ford Dealer. They had to figure out the conversion from inches to degrees, but got it done. A lot of questions from the young Techs, and smiles from the old hands.

[glennpm]

Some great suggestions guys

Glenn

[cas3]

And, keep in mind the big shots with an alinement rack were doing this with the weight of the car on swivel bases to get a real world measurement with all the play taken out.

I'm usually working on some wreck I'm building, so its got new king pins and bushings, so close enough for me. That is a nice gizmo that Mark made.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51woodie

I cheated and took my '46 Coupe to the local Ford Dealer. They had to figure out the conversion from inches to degrees, but got it done. A lot of questions from the young Techs, and smiles from the old hands.