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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Yorktown Virginia
Posts: 263
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I had this dropped off for me to get it running. It was driven into a barn 20 years ago in Indiana and has not been touched since. Going through the normal items to get to the possible run I came across an issue. Both the radiator cap and gas cap will not come off. I have spayed PB Blast on the base of caps and have used a heat gun on the radiator cap. Neither will turn even when using a large strap wrench.. No I did not use the heat on the gas tank cap.
My next option is to grind the caps off. I would have to back fill the gas tank with water assuming the tank vent works. Any ideas? Also the car appears to be nice upholstery good , all vinyl, roof good and paint job very presentable |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Epping N.H.
Posts: 3,689
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I've seen this before with the threaded caps.Take a pair of good water pump pliers,not the wimpy 12 inch ones,and start working your way around the caps.Squeeze the cap,then squeeze the cap somewhere else.Squeeze low on the cap,you are trying to work the threads.Work it round and round,always squeezing a different spot.If it is a dry corrosion it will start crumbling it's way out,and whatever you are squirting on it will start to wick it's way up there.Even if it's old fuel varnish,not corrosion it should be hard and not a gum anymore.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 6,847
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I have a 6 foot pipe wrench that I use for really stuck things. i also have the large, good quality water pump pliers that Keith talks about. Also very handy.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 09-28-2025 at 08:19 PM. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Yorktown Virginia
Posts: 263
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the strap wrench I am using is an 20 inch. It grabs good but I can see the radiator attempting to turn and was cautious to continue. As it is not my car I am probably being overly cautious
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,689
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Be careful, to some degree. You can rip the neck right off the radiator. Don't get impatient. This may take you a couple of weeks. Someone tried to steam my moto-meter, and ripped the neck off my radiator. The lady that answers the telephone at Snyders tells me she hears about broken radiators due to attempted moto-meter theft more often than you would think.
Meanwhile keep working on the gas tank cap. I tend to dress those threads every year or two with anti-seze. Maybe it does good, maybe it does not, but I do it. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,006
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Yorktown Virginia
Posts: 263
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 6,847
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Keith, Post #2, is describing deforming the threads to loosen the rust or tar. He works the waterpump pliers around the caps to loosen the treads in multiple places. The pliers are expanding the caps by doing that. Buy the largest waterpump pliers you can find. Go back and re read his post.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,592
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You might end up cutting into the tops of the caps so penetrating oil can migrate down rather than it trying to wick up the threads. I think the caps are brass so no sparks (unless you hit the steel tank). The goal is not to damage the expensive hard to change parts.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 2,068
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Maybe worth a shot...
Wrap a thick towel around the cap and slowly pour boiling water onto the towel keeping it soaked with the hot water to allow the heat and moisture work into it.
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Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,502
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No sparks around the gas tank.
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,873
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heavy rag and pipe wrench will take it right off.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chillicothe, Missouri
Posts: 1,851
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I use a pair of 16" long channel lock pliers they give you plenty of leverage.
__________________
"If I asked people what they wanted they would have said faster horses." -Henry Ford "Primitive technology is not a design flaw" 1928 Ford Model A Roadster Pickup 1930 Gordon Smith Air Compressor 1941 Willy's Pickup 1960 Thunderbird-For Sale 1964 Buick Riviera 2x4 425 1965 Pontiac GTO, 455 Super Duty 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10, V-10 Viper 1977 Charger Jet Boat,460 Ford,Jacuzzi Jet Front Engine Nostalgia Dragster,Supercharged 296 "Fullrace Flathead" Ford Engine Build up on DVD ask |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 312
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Do what Kieth says. Deform the cap some in the area of the threads. Go around and round. Normally there is space between inner and outer threads which is now full of petrified crap. I use the same method to get shocks apart. Only my tool is a hammer but the goal is the same, tenderize the corrosion.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 1,121
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Rock the cap back and forth in both directions until you start to get movement. Tightening and loosening can sometimes break the seal.
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Yorktown Virginia
Posts: 263
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Problem solved! 36 inch pipe wrench and double rag over cap and both came off. Hard turning for about 2 turns
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