8ba Rebuild - worth the cost?

[Hoodooman]

Hi all,
I'm pretty sure I know the answer here especially on a forum such as this. Nevertheless, I'll ask for input. I have a very original, very rust-free 52 4 door customline. She's a driver quality car. Lots of scratches, dents, original interior, etc. etc. Anyhow, the 8ba is finally due for replacement. Smokes, down on power, uses lots of oil, and finally, broke a valve the other day. Looks to be standard bore, all original block. The car is only worth a few thousand when it was running. Is it REALLY worth putting $5-8K into rebuilding the engine? Only to still have a $3500 car? Nothing sentimental about the car. The closest machine shop with flathead experience is about 4 hours away. I won't dare say what alternatives I'm considering, but simply ask for your thoughts.

This is all to say, IF the block isn't cracked and is actually worth a rebuild.

I appreciate it!

[rockfla]

SO, what is your "Other" options??


1) Sell it for parts


2) ANY other power plant replacement is gonna cost you in the $1000 to $2000 at least for a good running motor, THEN you have to put it in AND depending on what you buy, you will have to modify the car to put that into it, then most likely a transmission to go along with the new power plant....ie MORE and MORE money.


SO IF option #2 compare all that entails (and the possible labor of such) and subtract that from your 8BA engine rebuild will cost you!!!!

[Tim Ayers]

Aside from machine work, how much of this can you do yourself? That will go a long way in helping to answer your question.

[Hoodooman]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Aside from machine work, how much of this can you do yourself? That will go a long way in helping to answer your question.

I'm confident in my ability to assemble the complete drivetrain after machine work. Gap rings, lap valves, etc. With that said, the machine work will be at least 3K, and the rebuild kit likely 2k+. Either way I'm looking at at least 5k for a 3500 - 5k car when done.

[ford38v8]

Your other option (as you are capable), is to do a valve job, new rings and bearings, get it running for under 2k, then be proud of your work on a good running driver.

[Newc]

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Find a fair running used 8ba from a 'takeout' project. They're out there. Advertize for one. Newc

[deuce5wndw]

Alan gave you great advice! They don't all need the full rebuild route.

[Hoodooman]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Your other option (as you are capable), is to do a valve job, new rings and bearings, get it running for under 2k, then be proud of your work on a good running driver.

I do like this idea. Dingle ball hone, valve job, rings, bearings. I've done this on other engines. I've heard it referred to as a farmers rebuild. I mentioned this to some folks in the past and was completely flamed for even thinking about not exhausting my life savings on a professional, complete, proper rebuild.

I may explore this further. The only things I don't have are the proper pilots and cutters for a flathead valve job. Wouldn't even know where to find them.

[Kurt in NJ]

I did a ring and valve on a 49 merc engine for a truck— has .012 taper in the bore,used.002 under bearings refaced the valves drove the truck to many flea markets in the tri state area for years with a 2 ton load on it then it got sold to a guy from California that had bought a airplane in New york— he drove it to california in 4 days and said it averaged 15 mpg and used a quart of oil. — basically all it got would be considered a in chassis ring and valve job.

[34fordy]

Nothing foolish about being sentimental about a car. If it has a place in your heart spending 8k for a top notch rebuild is fine. A rust free car will last for years. The Cubans are still driving 40s and 50s American cars with most likely many rebuilds and repairs.

[Gene1949]

Given today's market I think repowering that car would cost almost as much as rebuilding the flattie.

If you’re looking at that car from an economic standpoint you are already in a deficit. There's no way you're gonna come out of it. You look at all the money and time and effort the geezers on this board are putting into their vision of their Flathead cars. They're not doing it from an economic standpoint. I guess I'm one of those that is in love with a car that I would have wanted when I was a kid growing up in the 50s and 60s. I don't care what engine you use there is nothing in the world like the feel and sound of a flat motor.

I put together “rolling death” when I was 15; a ’40 Desoto coupe with a ’55 Desoto Firedome hemi and trans. Would beat the pants off any of my friends with hopped up shoeboxes. I still wanted one (a shoebox)

At one time I was going to set my car on an S10 pickup chassis. Pretty simple to do really. All the hot rod Monte Carlo SS parts bolt to that S10 chassis. Then you have an unlimited choice of drivetrains, brake packages and suspension.

I approached my wife and my close friends that are racers and hot rodders and they basically said they were going to perform a gender reassignment on me if I did it. So much for the S10 pickup chassis.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Hoodooman

I'm confident in my ability to assemble the complete drivetrain after machine work. Gap rings, lap valves, etc. With that said, the machine work will be at least 3K, and the rebuild kit likely 2k+. Either way I'm looking at at least 5k for a 3500 - 5k car when done.

Anyway you shake it, rebuilding a flathead aint cheap. If you are able to do the reassembly, I think you can get it down to somewhere around $3,500-$4,000 with machining, bearings and pistons for a stock rebuild assuming the rods and crank and still good and you doing most of the labor.

I think you'll be miles ahead money wise if you can find a running replacement. They are certainly out there for around $1,500, give or take.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Newc

Find a fair funning used 8ba from a 'takeout' project. They're out there. Advertize for one. Newc

x2 for sure

[3twinridges]

Rebuild that thing, you only live once! It will keep you out of trouble for a while!

JB

[tubman]

I did several "farmer's rebuilds" (per "Hoodooman") when I was a starving college student (both for myself and for "profit"). All served their purpose. I'll bet I had less skill and certainly less resources than you do. Oh yeah, I did one of my "rebuilds" on an 8BA that had 7 cracks in the block (from the valve to the bore). It got me through the winter.

Go for it.

[Conrad Rossi]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Your other option (as you are capable), is to do a valve job, new rings and bearings, get it running for under 2k, then be proud of your work on a good running driver.

Love this option. Thank you for pointing this one out.

[GB SISSON]

While this manual was made before the advent of the 8ba, much applies. Any needed updates are readily available online or from this forum. Over the last 30 years I have completed at least six overhauls (not rebuilds) on flathead V8s using the info in this book. If you will note who published this little gem, I think you will agree that the Ford Motor Company Service Department knew that an overhaul was a viable option when funds were limited. I assume this manual is still available today, or I can loan you this one.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

While this manual was made before the advent of the 8ba, much applies. Any needed updates are readily available online or from this forum. Over the last 30 years I have completed at least six overhauls (not rebuilds) on flathead V8s using the info in this book. If you will note who published this little gem, I think you will agree that the Ford Motor Company Service Department knew that an overhaul was a viable option when funds were limited. I assume this manual is still available today, or I can loan you this one.

[Steve51]

With the declining value of these vintage cars anytime a major repair like this comes along you are going to be underwater on the value equation. Look at it as how much do I enjoy the car and is that worth putting X amount of dollars into it for your enjoyment. Nowadays you can almost be guaranteed to not recoup your costs when selling.

[ken-r-mer]

A 2 door would be better return on your total investment