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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 49
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What is a easy engine to install on my 39 sedan? I don't have a ton of money, and would like to do it on a budget. Just get her running where I can enjoy the car more. It has the original 85hp flathead, and original 3 speed trans. Are there any engines that will bolt to the old trans? I know most folks put a powerhouse V8 in one. I would too, if I had the money, but what is a good economy plan?
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 4,804
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
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1) take the coil off and send it to: Skip Haney
29436 Taralane Drive Punta Gorda FL 33982 2) take your distributor off and send it to: Skip Haney or Michael Driskell Third Gen Automotive 2600 Old Nashville Hwy McMinnville TN 37110 OR CharlieNY/ Charlie Schwindler 5845 Cole Road Orchard Park NY 14127 3) Take your carburetor and fuel pump Off and send them to :CharlieNY (above) After that, you will "most" likely be set for many miles of carefree driving AND joy beyond belief |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
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1939DeLuxesedan: Take rockfla advice. Your best bet would be to rebuild or install the same engine that is already in your car. Yes, you can make other engines fit but, that always leads to additional unexpected changes and modifications. KEEP IT SIMPLE by keeping what you already have.
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#5 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,143
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 49
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This process has the same feel as pulling the handle on one of those "one arm bandits" out in Vegas. But it would be my preference, to restore it. i wish I had the money to send it out and have it professionally rebuilt. I am exploring my options. Otherwise it will sit out in my barn for more years. Thanks for the input. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,537
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1. You would likely get more money at Vegas.
2. You will likely have much more fun over the years with the car than at Vegas. 3. Before you start throwing parts at it check for compression and do a pressure leak check on the block. Pull the heads and check for hardened valve seats and no cracks. If all looks good the V8 slot has been good to you, if not you may need to spend the $$ to rebuild the block. Drop the pan and CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Then new oil, of course. 4. Send the water pumps to Skip Haney too. 5. If you are moving forward keep us posted. |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 4,804
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At this point, what you have listed as issues doesn't sound to daunting BUT, can you post a few pictures of the motor so we can see what exactly you have and can better advise you at this point. Getting a distributor, coil, carburetor and fuel pump isn't too difficult and shouldn't be ALL that expensive. I "may"..... have a distributor that I can donate to the cause, I will look at my stash of distributors and see what I can come up with. Lets see what you are currently working with first? In the mean time, I would pour some Marvel Mystery Oil down all the cylinders and down the intake and let that soak in for the next few days!!!! Last edited by rockfla; 08-04-2025 at 01:53 PM. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 697
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Wondering if you got a way to get the engine out? That's how I like to start.
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,603
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You might want to contact folks who already have a good running engine for sale. 1940 will fit a 39.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...&o=relevance&c[node]=47 |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,373
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Where do you live ? I’ve got 5 very good running flatheads hanging around . Most rebuilt or just re ringed and valve job . I’m in s Florida.
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#12 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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I like your thought.
It is hard to put a value on the "cool factor". Riding around with flathead V8 has it in spaded! |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
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I also have many parts that you could try before you drop alot of money on it .
Its fairly easy to remove the intake , just to get an idea of the internal condition. If its decent cyl head removal would be next but not right away . Remove plugs get it cranking easy and check compression. Low is okay at this point . Dog walk time … |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
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#16 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Corsicana, Texas
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Super neat car! I have a passion for old Ford survivors. It' your car, but I wouldn't do anything to it that would harm its originality; just do what it needs to make run reliably and stop safely. What you have there is a bit of a rare flathead Ford. It's known as aConvertible Sedan and 1939 is the last year they were made; it's also the first year for hydraulic brakes for Ford. To my knowledge there aren't many around. Get with a local Early V8 club chapter and you should be able to recruit some eager club members to help you get it going again. Wish you all the best in getting her back on the road!
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#17 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,603
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Ford only made 3561 1939 DeLuxe Convertible Sedans, Model 91A-74.
It still used the 112 in. wheelbase and was 186.33 in. bumper guard to bumper guard., |
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#18 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 611
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
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That car needs to stay original with a flathead; it's a rare car. The very first thing you do with an engine that has set for a long time is to do a compression check on it. You're just wasting your time until you find out that it has compression.
My dad died, and I inherited his '32 roadster. It ran fine when he quit driving it. After 15-plus-years of sitting in his garage I started it, but it ran terrible., it has to stuck open valves. I just need to remove the intake and unstick them, and it will be fine. Also, the gas tank was full of muck. I have it cleaned out, I just need to repaint it. I have 12 car projects so it just sitting until I have the bug to get it running. I had a stroke so I'm not doing much car restoration work right now If you do a compression test and have a low cylinder, then I'd pull the intake and make sure the valves are all opening and closing. I've seen this twice now, on my dad's '32 with stuck valves and I bought a '51 Mercury out of a car and the only thing wrong with it was one of the lifter keepers had fallen out of it, so the entire lifter and valve were open The guy working on it never tried to diagnose it, he told the guy the motor was no good and sold him a Chevy to put in it. As soon as I got the original standard bore Merc engine home, I pulled the intake and saw the lifter keeper laying in the lifter valley. The guy could have popped it back in and still be driving it. Nice original car and now it's screwed up with a Chevy in it. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,373
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