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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 22
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Am getting ready to install my oil pan, engine out of car on cherry picker, and am not certain the front “Rope” seal that came with the gasket set will work or that it is the correct one. As I see it, it seems too thick and after inserting it in the groove it rides too high and will not compress enough to allow the pan to sit flush with the side rails. Is there a different seal available that might be better? The seal looks to be a Teflon version as far as I can tell. No instructions with the gasket set. Am trying to do a “ dry” run before getting in to it. Thanks.
BTW. This is a stock engine. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,909
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always soaked those ropes overnite in engine oil. Common to use a sealer under them, but there is a drain-back hole under the seal. Also left the ends a bit long. Newc
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,262
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What brand of gasket set? I use the rope type seals in my builds and I fit up totally dry then a smear of assembly lube on final assembly. I fit up timing cover with pulley on first then remove timing cover and do same with oil pan. Trim to length with a little excess sticking up now final assembly of timing cover,pulley,and oil pan. That’s how I have done this for many years.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,186
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Push the rope into the pan with a round rod about 1" Dia like a rolling pin.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Corsicana, Texas
Posts: 1,306
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As TerryOh says, push it down firmly into the seal groove and don't feel the need to trim too much off the ends. You want it to fit snuggly against the block without allowing leaks. If you have the correct gasket set for your engine you may not think it's possible, but it will compress as you begin to run all the pan bolts down. It is recommended to run the bolts down evenly so as not to put too much strain on any one area of the pan. As Newc says, it is very important to soak them in motor oil overnight before installing.
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,262
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Corsicana, Texas
Posts: 1,306
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,262
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,262
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#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 22
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I’ve seen it explained both ways and am thinking either will work. My original concern about the seal being too thick still stands. I have pushed it in as far as it will go and have about a quarter inch sticking out on each end. After trimming it almost flush, I’m going to dry fit it and see if it compresses enough. Right now I have my doubts.
One more question: everyone suggests to “glue” the gasket to the block prior to install. What’s wrong with “gluing” it to the pan instead? It seems easier. I will put a dab of sealer on each corner of the end seals first. |
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#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,262
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 621
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I wouldn’t soak them either. If you soak them in oil, they will be almost impossible to cut or cut cleanly. Assembly lube has worked for me also.
JB |
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#13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 22
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Thanks everyone. I did get around to doing a "dry" run and it looks like the front seal will compress enough and allow the pan to sit correctly. Being that I'm working from under the engine, actually laying along each side, while it"s hanging from the cherry picker, I am going to set the gaskets on the pan first and then lift it into place. ALL this for a clutch replacement!!!!
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