4 or 6

[Keith True]

If you speed the water flow up too much it drops down through the core,then back to the block without transferring it's heat.If you shoot the heat number at the top of the core while running,then the bottom of the core while running,there should be a substantial difference in temperature.If the temp difference isn't a lot,then the water is running through it too fast,or the radiator still isn't working right,new or old.

[WHN]

Originally Posted by Keith True

If you speed the water flow up too much it drops down through the core,then back to the block without transferring it's heat.If you shoot the heat number at the top of the core while running,then the bottom of the core while running,there should be a substantial difference in temperature.If the temp difference isn't a lot,then the water is running through it too fast,or the radiator still isn't working right,new or old.

Keith, the way I have read his thread, he is slowing the water down with the one inch restriction.

The syphon flow is what it is. Any restrictions will result in less flow. The water pump is marginally effective.

Design is for up to 32 gallons per minute.

Great question.

[Dan McEachern]

Be aware that often with old original radiators, the fins don't make good contact with the tubes and can't transfer the heat. There is no fix for this other than a new radiator or core. Its a common problem with old radiators- just throwing that out there . Hopefully this is not the OP's problem, but.......

[2speed]

In terms of my mind being made up, I just want proof, not "Mine's never overheated so....".


I've watched the temp gauge bounce, which is from the cavitation,etc like you say, but it will average at the numbers I say. I've also seen the temp gauge bounce due to wind being front, back, or side.


It freezes where I live, and I don't have time to drain, refill, drain, refill with different coolants depending on where I want to drive or what weather pattern is coming.


I literally posted a link that shows that a 4 blade fan pulls more air. Is the study wrong? Is there a different study that shows different?


When pulling a hill, the engine RPM is high, but ground speed is low, well below 35 mph. The 4/6 blade fan would be better right?


Would a shroud be more effective than a multi blade fan?


Water flow capacity through the radiator is not the same as heat disappation.

[WHN]

Originally Posted by 2speed

In terms of my mind being made up, I just want proof, not "Mine's never overheated so....".


I've watched the temp gauge bounce, which is from the cavitation,etc like you say, but it will average at the numbers I say. I've also seen the temp gauge bounce due to wind being front, back, or side.


It freezes where I live, and I don't have time to drain, refill, drain, refill with different coolants depending on where I want to drive or what weather pattern is coming.


I literally posted a link that shows that a 4 blade fan pulls more air. Is the study wrong? Is there a different study that shows different?


When pulling a hill, the engine RPM is high, but ground speed is low, well below 35 mph. The 4/6 blade fan would be better right?


Would a shroud be more effective than a multi blade fan?


Water flow capacity through the radiator is not the same as heat disappation.

If you really have the flow of coolant through your radiator that is required and it’s still overheating. You have a radiator problem.

Have you checked the timing?

These are really simple cars. A good radiator is a must. That’s what dissipates the heat. You need the flow to get the heat to your radiator. A good radiator might actually allow your engine to run cooler than you might think it should.

My last post. Good luck.

[mcgarrett]

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Seems to me Brent & Dan are right on target with their comments. I live in Texas, which is synonymous with HIGH summer temperatures. I had a cooling problem much like the OP had and found my original radiator was causing most of the trouble (clean radiator or not) due to fins not making good contact with the tubes. I tried both 2 blade and 4 blade fans to no avail. I then replaced the radiator with new Brassworks unit and temperatures were back under control.

Here are some suggestions of things to check if you haven't already...

1) Check for bubbles in the coolant when the engine is running (remove radiator cap and observe). If you notice bubbles it's a pretty good indication of a blown head gasket.

2) Remove the restriction or thermostat from the upper hose (they were NEVER installed at the factory for any reason I know of) it will not help with cooling.

3). After driving in hot weather long enough to get the engine temperature up, shut the car down and listen for any signs of boiling, gurgling. or steam coming from the engine. If the coolant is at the proper level check to see if any is coming out of the overflow tube. If the radiator is spitting water on the ground your coolant level is too high or you are overheating due to a radiator that has exceeded its service life - or perhaps suffering with issues found in points 1 & 2 above.

4) Replace the anti-freeze/water mixture with 100% water and a corrosion inhibitor additive like Water Wetter or 40 Below. For winter driving, switch the coolant mixture back to 50/50 antifreeze and water.

[Tacoma Bob]

Originally Posted by Dan McEachern

Be aware that often with old original radiators, the fins don't make good contact with the tubes and can't transfer the heat. There is no fix for this other than a new radiator or core. Its a common problem with old radiators- just throwing that out there . Hopefully this is not the OP's problem, but.......

Yup ! totally agree. That's what my issue was. I spent a lot of time screwin around and in the end the radiator wasn't radiating. Tube to fin contact is a must.