how to keep windshield open

[randy c]

I have a1928 open cab pickup ,how do you keep windshield out for vent when driving. does it arms to hold it out?

Allen C

[gdmn852]

Hello , I have a 31 roadster, and made up some wood dowels fitted between cowl rail and lower windshield frame, the wingnuts seem to loosen up with wind .

[Jim/GA]

On open cars, remove the two stanchion wingnuts at the top of the windshield (only do one side at a time) and add 2 flat washers on there, then put the wingnuts back on snug when you have the windshield open to the position where you want it. Add the 2 washers to both sides. The windshield will stay there.

The stud bottoms out inside the wingnut before it is clamped tight to the stanchion.

I have seen people put wooden blocks, tennis balls, pool noodles, all kinds of stuff in the bottom of the windshield because they did not know about the washers.

[randy c]

thank every one for information, will try that to hot here in Texas to drive it like it is.

[FrankGModelA]

Hi. I have the same problem with the same type/year vehicle. I see the answer below with adding washers. I’m near San Antonio and you’re right, it’s too hot to drive around with the windshield closed, even with the soft top off… ��

[Big hammer]

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I bought the new fangled arms with notches in them, they hold the windshield open positively at any speed at any angle ! BTW the first notch or 1 1/2 inches open gives me the most air blowing down to my feet/legs .

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

I bought the new fangled arms with notches in them, they hold the windshield open positively at any speed at any angle ! BTW the first notch or 1 1/2 inches open gives me the most air blowing down to my feet/legs .

Yea, that's probably a closed car, not an open car. The open cars only lock in at the top.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

On open cars, remove the two stanchion wingnuts at the top of the windshield (only do one side at a time) and add 2 flat washers on there, then put the wingnuts back on snug when you have the windshield open to the position where you want it. Add the 2 washers to both sides. The windshield will stay there.

The stud bottoms out inside the wingnut before it is clamped tight to the stanchion.

I have seen people put wooden blocks, tennis balls, pool noodles, all kinds of stuff in the bottom of the windshield because they did not know about the washers.

Thank you Jim C. for the tip to use washers behind the wing nuts. I wasn't having much luck keeping my Roadster windshield set where I wanted it. Your trick worked!

[ModelA29]

Try some rubber washers. You are looking to increase the friction to resit movement.

[David in San Antonio]

I tried the metal washers, and a combination of rubber washers and metal washers. It kept slipping so I progressively tightened down the wing nuts until one snapped off one wing. I replaced both with modern wing nuts and tightened them down more. The windshield worked its way closed anyway.

[stevests]

How damn fast you guys driving ???

[David in San Antonio]

SteveSTS- I appreciate the joke but just driving on regular roads at 20-30 mph the bumps are enough to close it up. I’m guessing the hardware is worn smooth. Maybe I’ll try roughing it up a bit. In the meantime, I fold over a small terry shop towel about four times and wedge it in on either side.

[stevemclark]

Here's an after market one that should work. .https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A45463C.html. . This too. https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A45477S.html. .New thumbscrews maybe. https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A45482.html.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by stevests

How damn fast you guys driving ???

Speed isn't causing the problem. I've experienced a combination of leverage acting on the windshield, vibration, and worn parts that don't fit right.

[Karl Wescott]

One consideration. There is "cone" that attaches to the windshield frame, and the post has a socket. The cone and post socket should have EXACTLY the same angle (the cone should be contacting the socket EVENLY and COMPLETELY. This makes a friction lock when modestly tightened (think Morse taper chuck and spindle on a drill press). Many reproduction parts (and restorations) have lost this critical detail.


If the studs are too long and bottom out in the wingnut, why not just trim them to a "correct" length? I do like to use a small washer between the nut and post to keep from galling the post. There are extra small od 3/8" washers made that have about the od of the wingnuts so look fairly unobtrusive.

[Randy in ca]

Along the same line as Karl stated above, the late expert Marco Tahtaras had this to add to a similar thread way back in 2010:

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