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Old 07-23-2025, 02:40 PM   #1
farmertom
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Default Re: New Member/"New" Truck

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Originally Posted by pavilla View Post
I like the look of your truck. Mine was fully restored when I bought it and I love it, but I also sort of covet a truck with a good patina and some character.

Flathead Ted Floaters are a relatively easy upgrade and good bang for the buck. I put them on my '33 Model B and at the speeds I drive, and with a little foresight when approaching objects and intersections, I feel safe enough.
I believe ford had the factory brake floaters starting with the '37 models,unless flatheadteds floaters are superior than fords. Tom.
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Old 07-23-2025, 04:17 PM   #2
51504bat
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Default Re: New Member/"New" Truck

Here are some photos of my '39 p/u. I had a local sign painter/pin striper do the doors. Big no to any type of paint type clear coating. Try Gibbs oil if you want to preserve the patina. My '39 has an 8ba so no fan generator mount issue. Many won't agree with me but when you rewire your truck convert it to 12 volts. If you want a 12 volt original looking generator that is an alternator look into E.J. Whitney in Fullerton, CA JMO
Classic Automotive - Converting Vintage Automotive Generators to Alternators: E.J. Whitney Company, Inc. - Fullerton California
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Old 07-23-2025, 05:41 PM   #3
petehoovie
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Default Re: New Member/"New" Truck

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Originally Posted by 51504bat View Post
Here are some photos of my '39 p/u. I had a local sign painter/pin striper do the doors. Big no to any type of paint type clear coating. Try Gibbs oil if you want to preserve the patina. My '39 has an 8ba so no fan generator mount issue. Many won't agree with me but when you rewire your truck convert it to 12 volts. If you want a 12 volt original looking generator that is an alternator look into E.J. Whitney in Fullerton, CA JMO
Classic Automotive - Converting Vintage Automotive Generators to Alternators: E.J. Whitney Company, Inc. - Fullerton California






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Old 07-24-2025, 02:44 PM   #4
Don W/Norfolk
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Default Re: New Member/"New" Truck

About the gear grinding.
These old Fords, only had a synchro between 2nd and 3rd. Works going up (1 to 2 to 3) or going down (3 to 2). Downshifting to 1st without a grind requires a COMPLETE stop. 1st and Reverse are on the same shaft so no synchro into Reverse either, BTW.
Put gas in the tank, correct any potential electrical fires and drive the wheels off it. Fix or change the rest incrementally so as to not be off the road long.
Have fun
dw
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