Light switch issue

[NCSUDucker]

Is there a particular way the disk headlight switch is supposed to be oriented in the metal bulb at the base of the steering gear? I replaced it when we rewired as the other was so loose it would come on/ off while turning the steering wheel. Now it wants to bind and it's all I can do to turn it.

Thanks,
Brad

[Bob C]

There were problems with some of the switch contact plates that need attention. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...11655-67-2.pdf

[cas3]

I think the new ones have the brass contacts too high. I go after them with a file and make em flush with the plastic. There is still enough detent left you can feel where its placed, yet turns smooth

[Kube]

Originally Posted by cas3

I think the new ones have the brass contacts too high. I go after them with a file and make em flush with the plastic. There is still enough detent left you can feel where its placed, yet turns smooth

I had installed one like this. Worked for a short time but actually "dug" the plastic out terribly making it inoperable.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Bob C

There were problems with some of the switch contact plates that need attention. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...11655-67-2.pdf

A-11655/67 Light Switch Body

These new light switch assemblies have been reproduced using original Ford archive blueprints and original samples here in the U.S.A.

While testing our prototypes, we quickly found some shortfalls in reproduction light switch wiring harness contact rings.

The first issue we found was with the 3 detents where the contact ring sits when the switch is in the OFF position. The detents in the black plastic were too large and too deep. This causes the switch to be difficult to rotate from the OFF position. Using a sharp knife or small burr, taper the edge of the hole where the contact ring needs to rotate in and out of the hole. Be sure to leave a flat area between the detent and the brass contact next to it. This is not a problem with original Ford contact rings.


The second issue we found was with the thickness of the black plastic of the contact ring. The original archive print calls for a thickness of .310/.315”. Every reproduction that we examined were thicker than this. Adding a taper to the OD where the lower cap of the light switch body mates will allow the lower cap to slide and twist into position easier.

We are currently working with one of the major suppliers of the light switch harness to try and get these issues corrected.

[NCSUDucker]

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Thanks! Greatly appreciate the folks here at Fordbarn! Did a little grinding with the dremmel tool and added some dielectric grease. Definitely tolerable now.

[37 Coupe]

I gave up on the reproduction switch body and cap bought a NOS one from Fred at Southside Obsolete.

[Terry,OH]

The plastic switch body, the metal can it fits into, the metal cover for the can and the receiver that is bolted to the bottom of the steering box should fit together one way only. The plastic switch body has a flat spot on it's OD which prevents it from turning in the metal can.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The plastic switch body, the metal can it fits into, the metal cover for the can and the receiver that is bolted to the bottom of the steering box should fit together one way only. The plastic switch body has a flat spot on it's OD which prevents it from turning in the metal can.

Yes it will only go on one way to operate correctly. The spider arms musty to orientated vertically and the contact base in the can slots engage the spider arms.

[NCSUDucker]

Thanks Glenn. I'll give that a shot, I thought I had it sorted out but now I have another issue. The switch was turning easily enough but I didn't have park lights. I wasn't to worried about that since I would rarely have the rear lights on without the headlights. Well i went to cut the lights on this evening and they stopped working but now the parking lights work. Or possibly something else happened with the b headlights, and only the taillights are coming in? One turn counter clockwise is park? 2 turns should be lights? It's that correct? Regardless I only have taillights in the middle position and nothing turned all the way clockwise or counter clockwise. I checked the fuses in the relay and the one under the dash, all good. I ordered a NOS switch off of ebay so bodily that will solve the problem.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by NCSUDucker

Thanks Glenn. I'll give that a shot, I thought I had it sorted out but now I have another issue. The switch was turning easily enough but I didn't have park lights. I wasn't to worried about that since I would rarely have the rear lights on without the headlights. Well i went to cut the lights on this evening and they stopped working but now the parking lights work. Or possibly something else happened with the b headlights, and only the taillights are coming in? One turn counter clockwise is park? 2 turns should be lights? It's that correct? Regardless I only have taillights in the middle position and nothing turned all the way clockwise or counter clockwise. I checked the fuses in the relay and the one under the dash, all good. I ordered a NOS switch off of ebay so bodily that will solve the problem.

I was down this same dead end road ten years ago on my '32!

- Repro switch wouldn't work properly
- Bought a NOS switch but couldn't get it to rotate for high beams???



Regarding switch position for your '37 (and earlier models BTW):

- straight up or down, lights are off
- One click clockwise (CW) from straight up/down position, for parking lights
- One click CCW for low beam headlights
- Two clicks CCW for high beams

Switches from '38 up have only three position, NOT four. One of the first NOS switches I bought was for a '38 sold as a '37 down version, which it wasn't, so I know this well. Koates and FrankWest set me straight on this here, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...82#post1197482

[NCSUDucker]

Thanks again Glenn. Mine is a 39, do you by chance know direction on the switch at the wheel and corresponding result should be. If I remember correctly from when I got it, it was one click CC was parking, 2 clicks CC was headlights as the dimmer switch is on the floor in the 39.

[glennpm]

I should have looked at your avatar, got confused by post from 37 Coupe.

It should be one click CW from OFF for Parking and one click CCW from OFF for low beams.

[NCSUDucker]

So just for clarification, of the 3 positions, counter clockwise is parking lights, center is off, and clockwise is headlights? I currently only have taillights when it's in the center position.

[glennpm]

Brad, please:

(1) Move the horn button paddles to the straight up and down position
(2) Remove the wire bail holding the switch housing on the bottom of the steering box
(3) Take a photo or tell us what the orientation of the "spider" tabs are

Since you have the parking lights on in the straight up/down potions, you could have a twisted horn rod or the switch housing is not engaged into the switch housing slots correctly

Originally Posted by NCSUDucker

So just for clarification, of the 3 positions, counter clockwise is parking lights, center is off, and clockwise is headlights? I currently only have taillights when it's in the center position.

Straight up/down for the paddles - ALL LIGHTS OFF

One click CW - PARKING LIGHTS ON

From Straight up/down, one click CCW - LOW BEAMS ON

[NCSUDucker]

Thank you Glen! I've got everything lined up correctly and working correctly now. The headlight issue was related to the old relay. I can now see at night with highs and lows!

[glennpm]

Great!

I thought you were still having issues. Very glad you have "seen the light" :-)

Glenn