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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 249
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i need to replace the part of the hand brake system that consists of the cable that runs from the left rear brake assembly to the right rear brake assembly. the rest of the hand brake system is working well.
my research, thus far, suggests that removal of the brake drum is necessary and that it is not trivial. ![]() the present condition: the car's (1941 ford convertible) had a recent (probably 10-15 years or less) body off restoration and the brakes, in general, work well. there's almost no rust on the undercarriage. the yoke holding the cable that needs replacing has been detached from the main single cable that runs forward to the hand lever in the cabin. the major wear on the old cable consists of significant fraying at the points where the cable enters the brake backing plates on both side. the rubber boots are, of course, in poor condition. the car had a new cable, still in it's plastic wrapping, in the trunk when i purchased it. i suspect it is the correct cable... ![]() any suggestions? Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 07-15-2025 at 10:37 AM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kerrville, Tx
Posts: 2,877
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Drums have to come off. Give your exact location and as for help.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 9,847
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Also, nearly all of the reproduction cables have a spring that is too long. If you install it as it is (too long) the parking brake will not function correctly and the brake shoes may drag. If memory serves, the spring should be 4 3/4".
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 24
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It’s a fiddly job but not major… there’s a bit of an art to reinstalling the springs that will have you tear your hair out if you don’t get it right! Sounds like a good opportunity to check condition of the brake linings and cylinders anyhow.
If you’re not doing it yourself, I’d be going somewhere else if they are quoting you more than 2-3 hours to do the job unless the cylinders are gummed up. (Brakes may “work well”, but if you’ve got the shoes off anyhow, now’s the time to deal with any other potential future issues.) |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,371
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If you don’t have the little clips , one for each spring, order them now . It’ll save time and frustration.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 9,847
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When installed, if you are not certain the length is proper, there should be NO "bunching" of the spring.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FP, NJ
Posts: 2,811
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I've had the little thin steel thingies fall off. I'm trying wee little "trailer hitch pin clips" to see if they'll stay on. Bummer if the cable comes disconnected from the actuating lever in there with the shoes.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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I have had good luck inserting the clips (91A-2113) between the coils of the springs, letting the excess spring length project into the tube.
Plan on replacing the hub seals along with inspecting and repacking the bearings while you are in there. Good idea to replace the gaskets under the washers on the outer ends of the hubs. Oh, yeah other than the cable, spring, and tube; your brakes won't look anything like the ones in the picture. Last edited by rich b; 07-15-2025 at 10:17 PM. Reason: changes |
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#10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 249
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#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,133
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: so cal, placerville, vegas
Posts: 1,414
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I'm also working on a 41.... Is there any way to remove the 'clips' (91A-2113) without destroying them, and then re-using them?
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: summerton, sc
Posts: 486
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I think i put a twist in the clip just enough to get the cable out and new one back in, was long ago.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,371
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As Kurt said a ,slight twist may give you enough spring to use them again . Its a lot of work to redo if it doesn’t work . I would reuse only as last resort .
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 265
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I have had brakes that were done by some one else who substituted a 1/4" split lock washer for the original clip. It worked OK.
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 98
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FP, NJ
Posts: 2,811
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Sounds like a great idea!
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 620
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Do you have access to a hub puller?
Last edited by fortyonerag; 07-26-2025 at 05:59 AM. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 249
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update...
turns out that BOTH the front and rear E-brake cables need replacing. and that i might be able to put off installing the rear one, temporarily. i've already removed the front cable and found it to be incredibly stiff and thick and intractable! with what appears to be an excessive amount rubber sheathing along its length and what looks like a springs and stretched springs along the length too. anyway, i've got a new one on the way that looks to be much more svelte and manageable and possibly simple to install. is this just wishful thinking? ![]() again, this is now just the FRONT cable that i'll be replacing for the time being and any pointers would be very welcome. thanks |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: summerton, sc
Posts: 486
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pointer no1, put it back the way you took it out.
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