engine side pans attachment

[Gene F]

I just replaced my drivers side pan yesterday. I added two thin small flat washers to the oil pan bolts, and a bit bigger on on the bottom side to take some of the stress off the flange on the motor pan, and add clamping area. Is you hold the motor pan up to an oil pan that is sitting in your garage floor you can see the benefit of this. Costs about $1.50, but the benefits are greater than having to re-fab and weld in new material down the road.

Pan goes between the top two flat washers, then the motor pan tab, and then the underside has the slightly larger flat washer (which I ground a flat edge on) with the lock washer. Don't go nuts tightening these bolts to the oil pan. There is still a gasket in there to consider.

[AL in NY]

After both my engine pans had the front ears broken off from engine vibration, I decided to soft mount my new pans on the engine side using two fender washers and two 1/8 inch thick rubber washers. This washer-rubber-pan-rubber-washer stack at the pan mounting points has cut down engine to frame vibration and hopefully extended the life of my engine pans. Been working for three years now.

[History]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

After both my engine pans had the front ears broken off from engine vibration, I decided to soft mount my new pans on the engine side using two fender washers and two 1/8 inch thick rubber washers. This washer-rubber-pan-rubber-washer stack at the pan mounting points has cut down engine to frame vibration and hopefully extended the life of my engine pans. Been working for three years now.

I was going to say that adding a rubber washer should help on vibration some. I remember another thread here about attaching the pans and som one tapped the holes on the frame and could just screw in bolts from underneath while you’re already there, no need for third hand. You can always use nut and bolt even with this method if it’s a points car. I plan on doing this myself.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by History

I was going to say that adding a rubber washer should help on vibration some. I remember another thread here about attaching the pans and som one tapped the holes on the frame and could just screw in bolts from underneath while you’re already there, no need for third hand. You can always use nut and bolt even with this method if it’s a points car. I plan on doing this myself.

Think about this a bit. The existing holes are clearance holes. If you thread them then you'll have to use larger bolts and nuts, which would not do well on a points car...

[Ruth]

[QUOTE=Y-Blockhead;2397273]On the frame side, I tapped the holes in the frame for bolts (I forget size) and install from the bottom. Makes it a one old man job.

Originally Posted by History

I remember another thread here about attaching the pans and som one tapped the holes on the frame and could just screw in bolts from underneath while you’re already there, no need for third hand. You can always use nut and bolt even with this method if it’s a points car. I plan on doing this myself.

As mentioned in post #9.