First time poster... with a couple of questions.

[Bored&Stroked]

It is great to hear about the progress you've been making and that you're sticking with it! Some guys get discouraged and just stop the work (which one can understand). You're making solid progress . . . keep the posts coming!

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

It is great to hear about the progress you've been making and that you're sticking with it! Some guys get discouraged and just stop the work (which one can understand). You're making solid progress . . . keep the posts coming!

Thank you for the kind words. This has been a bit of a slow process, but I promised my wife that we would get her dads car going again. So with the help of the folks here on the barn, I will get it going for her. I will be sure to post the progress,...and questions, here as I go along too!

[Floyd]

We are all pullin' for you! Keep going, ask a million questions and let someone stop by to take a look and add encouragement . Keep having fun and consider it a puzzle that you will solve. Mama bear is depending on it!

[dsglass95]

Hello all, back again on the 32. First of all, I would like to thank everyone who suggested Steve Blancard for help with my generator. I now have a generator that now works as it should. Now for yet more issues/questions. I have moved on to bearings and brakes. The front bearings are fine, but the rears not so much. The axle housings are out of round, left side being 2.063 on the high, and 2.060 on the low. The right side is 2.063 on the high and 2.058 on the low. The low being where the weight of the car rides. The hubs are, left, 3.1915 and the right is 3.1900, and the surfaces where the bearings run in the hubs are in poor shape, with some evidence of past damage and pitting. The key-ways aren't in the best shape either. There was quite a bit of play in the hubs before I pulled them. I haven't been able to find any service limits for this car, as of yet anyway. I have found repair sleeves when researching online, but I do not have the machinery to use the repair sleeves anyway. Also, I have confirmed that the steering gearbox is very loose, and will most likely need to be rebuilt. So my question is, has anyone had to deal with these problems your selves, and what advise could anyone offer as to how I can fix them? again, thanks for all the help.

[38 coupe]

Regarding the rear axle, which version is in your car? There is an "early" rear axle (actually most of 32 production) with a round flange where the torque tube bolts on, and a much improved "late" rear axle with a scalloped flange where the torque tube bolts on. The early axle shares many internal parts with Model A Fords, while the late axle shares many internal parts with 33-34 Fords.
The accepted fix for the rear axle wheel bearing surfaces is taking the rear axle apart and having the rear wheel bearing surfaces fixed by turning down the outer diameter and sleeving.

[cas3]

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When you go after the steering box, most folks use gears from a 34 as they have a little nicer ratio. They are reproduced.

[FlatheadTed]

From 1935 the axle housings can be turned up side down to place the warn part at the top a Farmer fix for sure ,In your case a sleeves required , You might find a old thread here that uses a roller bearing thats slide over the out side ,

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

Regarding the rear axle, which version is in your car? There is an "early" rear axle (actually most of 32 production) with a round flange where the torque tube bolts on, and a much improved "late" rear axle with a scalloped flange where the torque tube bolts on. The early axle shares many internal parts with Model A Fords, while the late axle shares many internal parts with 33-34 Fords.
The accepted fix for the rear axle wheel bearing surfaces is taking the rear axle apart and having the rear wheel bearing surfaces fixed by turning down the outer diameter and sleeving.

Thanks for the info. I was unaware of the differences in differential housing.It appears that my car has the round flange. I will take time time to see just how the rear differential come out and go from there I guess.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by cas3

When you go after the steering box, most folks use gears from a 34 as they have a little nicer ratio. They are reproduced.

My concern is that since this car car is right hand drive, there may be a difference in the gearboxes, and if so, just where I might find parts that will work. I am still flying pretty blind on a lot of things with this car.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

From 1935 the axle housings can be turned up side down to place the warn part at the top a Farmer fix for sure ,In your case a sleeves required , You might find a old thread here that uses a roller bearing thats slide over the out side ,

Thanks I will look into that.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by dsglass95

Thanks for the info. I was unaware of the differences in differential housing.It appears that my car has the round flange. I will take time time to see just how the rear differential come out and go from there I guess.

[FlatheadTed]

On the box there are four adjustments ,best to remove the box and inspect the inside , The left hand stuff will fit except worm and sector

[FlatheadTed]

Try C& G for worm and sector

[38 coupe]

You need a spring spreader or similar to safely remove the rear axle. Disconnecting the shock absorbers (if stock) can be frustrating, the shock links don't always come out nicely. The brakes are straight forward to disconnect. The torque tube is removed with the rear axle, you need to disconnect the speedometer drive and the u-joint cover. This is all very do-able, but you should have a plan and the space to do it in. If the rear wheel bearings are not a total disaster you can probably grease them and drive gently for the summer season and tackle the rear axle when you have a plan, space, and repair options lined up.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Try C& G for worm and sector

Can you elaborate on just who "C&G" is? A quick Google search was of no help. I had not though of looking outside of the country for my right hand drive parts though. Any non American suppliers that you or anybody could recommend would be of great help.


Thanks.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

You need a spring spreader or similar to safely remove the rear axle. Disconnecting the shock absorbers (if stock) can be frustrating, the shock links don't always come out nicely. The brakes are straight forward to disconnect. The torque tube is removed with the rear axle, you need to disconnect the speedometer drive and the u-joint cover. This is all very do-able, but you should have a plan and the space to do it in. If the rear wheel bearings are not a total disaster you can probably grease them and drive gently for the summer season and tackle the rear axle when you have a plan, space, and repair options lined up.

Thank you for the disassembly break down. The torque tube is the biggest unknown for me right now, and I will have to do some digging on just what I can use for a spring spreader. I do have all the service literature that I have been able to find, but none of it has any information on how to dissemble anything. Wife and I are on the hunt for some one reasonably close to do the machine work. The surface where the bearings run on the axle housing is not terrible, but I do not like how they feel. The hubs however are pretty rough and pitted. I have been a machinist for 35 years now, and a shade tree mechanic for much longer that that, and I'm not comfortable running the car with these issues. The repair of the axle housing looks to be pretty straight forward, But I don't have a good answer for the hubs yet, and I don't have the machinery to do the work on my own. Thanks.

[Proartguy]

https://cgfordparts.com/?gad_source=...SAAEgKJLvD_BwE

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by Proartguy

https://cgfordparts.com/?gad_source=...SAAEgKJLvD_BwE

Thank you.

[Terry,OH]

IMO it is best to get the car running properly before moving on to other problem areas. Notice above some are cheering you on because it is very easy to stop. Having success in one area is great moral support. Keep a narrow focus for your work.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

IMO it is best to get the car running properly before moving on to other problem areas. Notice above some are cheering you on because it is very easy to stop. Having success in one area is great moral support. Keep a narrow focus for your work.

I have the car running as well as I can without driving it to see just how well it runs when on the road. It starts well, idles well, responds good to me cracking the throttle open, and so far hasn't given me any indication that it will over heat. That led me to move on to see what the brakes and wheel bearings looked like. But this project is at a standstill till I figure out what to do about the rear hubs and axle housings.