The Ford Barn

fordson · 05-19-2025, 12:51 PM

I want to connect the free flow oil filter to my 59 AB flathead, but the engine builder is currently not available. We are wondering where the connecting hoses are to be attached to the engine block !
We guess:
1) The TOP PIPE on the block is the FEEDING PIPE ( sender ) for the oil to go into the BOTTOM OF the oil Filter Housing, pushing the oil through the dispenser.
2) The BOTTOM PIPE on the block is the RECEIVING PIPE ( receiver ) for the oil connecting to the TAP ON THE SIDE OF THE OIL FILTER HOUSING, where the filtered oil is going back into the engine.

OR IS IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND?

I would appreciate some help on this.
Randolf

Ken/Alabama · 05-19-2025, 01:26 PM

The fittings on the rear of the block are both pressurized . One of them supplies the oil filter and the other for the oil pressure sender. The supply to the filter goes into the side of the filter and the return at the bottom and goes back into the oil pan. The correct 59A oil pan should have a return fitting just ahead of the dipstick boss or have a provision for a fitting on the dipstick boss itself .

Bored&Stroked · 05-19-2025, 02:25 PM

Warning: If this is a free/full flow oil filter (which your post implies), then you cannot connect it as Ken has noted up above - as you'll have a major pressure leak directly from the main oil galley to the pan.

The original "Fram" type oil filters that mounted on the head were "drip feed" - they have a .060 orifice that controls the amount of oil that is bled off of the main galley and due to this orifice, they could return the oil directly to the pan. Only a portion of the oil is actually filtered at a moment in time . . . the rest of the flow goes straight into the main oil galley, so if a piece of material is picked up by the pump - it usually ends up in the bearings.

If you are attempting to implement a full-flow type setup, than the oil-passages in the block have to be modified to direct the main oil-flow out of the block, into your filter and then back into the oil-galley.

The above is what most call a "95%" filtration setup. I consider it more of a "66%" filtration setup as the rear main has its own pressure galley from the pump, so its oil is always coming from the pump - and not through your filter. Again, this takes mods to the block (drilling and tapping the galley) and should not be done AFTER the engine is assembled.

The other method is for an aftermarket full-flow system where the oil-pump is modified to NOT send the pressurized oil to the main galley, but through a hose and out the side of the oil-pan. Then, this connection goes through a full-flow filter and the output is directed back into the main galley at the side of the block. This requires a special oil-pump setup and modifications to the oil-pan itself.

Hopefully this helps.

B&S

Ken/Alabama · 05-19-2025, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Warning: If this is a free/full flow oil filter (which I believe it to be), then you cannot connect it as Ken has noted up above - as you'll have a major pressure leak directly from the main oil galley to the pan.

The original "Fram" type oil filters that mounted on the head were "drip feed" - they have a .060 orifice that controls the amount of oil that is bled off of the main galley and due to this orifice, they could return the oil directly to the pan. Only a portion of the oil is actually filtered at a moment in time . . . the rest of the flow goes straight into the main oil galley, so if a piece of material is picked up by the pump - it usually ends up in the bearings.

If you are attempting to implement a full-flow type setup, than the oil-passages in the block have to be modified to direct the main oil-flow out of the block, into your filter and then back into the oil-galley.

The above is what most call a "95%" filtration setup. I consider it more of a "66%" filtration setup as the rear main has its own pressure galley from the pump, so its oil is always coming from the pump - and not through your filter. Again, this takes mods to the block (drilling and tapping the galley) and should not be done AFTER the engine is assembled.

The other method is for an aftermarket full-flow system where the oil-pump is modified to NOT send the pressurized oil to the main galley, but through a hose and out the side of the oil-pan. Then, this connection goes through a full-flow filter and the output is directed back into the main galley at the side of the block. This requires a special oil-pump setup and modifications to the oil-pan itself.

Hopefully this helps.

B&S

Thanks for that post. I did consider the fact that he might be referring to a full flow system after I had made my post. I’ve not seen a full flow system using a beehive style filter. In fact I’ve read that the original style or beehive style filters are not to be used with this system because of the restrictive flow .

Bored&Stroked · 05-19-2025, 02:43 PM

Hey Ken: I'm not sure what his particular filter is . . . the originals I believe were drip-feed, though the repop aftermarket ones may be free/full flow. In the end as long as he understands the flathead oil system, he can determine how best to hookup his filter. The main thing is to NOT hookup a full-flow and send the oil back to the pan.

PS: Given the size of his oil-lines in the picture, I sort of assumed it is an aftermarket repop with a regular full-flow filter inside of it . . . but who knows.

Take care,
B&S

petehoovie · 05-19-2025, 03:26 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by fordson

I want to connect the free flow oil filter to my 59 AB flathead, but the engine builder is currently not available. We are wondering where the connecting hoses are to be attached to the engine block !
We guess:
1) The TOP PIPE on the block is the FEEDING PIPE ( sender ) for the oil to go into the BOTTOM OF the oil Filter Housing, pushing the oil through the dispenser.
2) The BOTTOM PIPE on the block is the RECEIVING PIPE ( receiver ) for the oil connecting to the TAP ON THE SIDE OF THE OIL FILTER HOUSING, where the filtered oil is going back into the engine.

OR IS IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND?

I would appreciate some help on this.
Randolf

69a · 05-19-2025, 03:27 PM

Read post #3 very carefully. You need to be 100% sure which type of filtering system your block is "plumbed" for. Failure to do that can result in destroying the engine.
1. You need to see if there is an internal plug in the horizontal oil gallery. 90% full flow if it is plugged. This system has both hoses fitted at the block.
2. You need to know if your actual filter is capable of providing sufficient flow.
3. If the oil gallery is not plugged, you are using the "bypass" system, and you must use a 0.060" restrictor between the block and the "IN" side of your filter.

Bored&Stroked · 05-19-2025, 08:17 PM

I've read where some of these beehive filters use a cannister like the old Fram filters that bolted on the cylinder heads - with a .060 restrictor on the inlet. You need to carefully validate what you have - before knowing which way to plumb it.

fordson · 05-20-2025, 04:19 PM

First of all my sincere apologies for not having supplied complete information regarding the oil filter / circuit set up.
The flathead has been bored and tapped for free / full flow oil filter system ( more like 70% ).
The beehive case was customised with bigger entry and exit ports, larger diameter dispersing rod with 20 holes, by a gentleman recommended on the Ford Barn approx. 10 years ago. Unfortunately i cannot recall his name.
A standard off the shelf Beehive cannot be used for this system.

I could have used the spin on oil filter with bypass by Hildebrand, but did not find it as aesthetic and period correct as the beehive. The option of modifying an original vintage Filcoolator was dropped due to possible material issues from age and usage.

The set up / connection to the blocks ports is fairly simple as depicted in the diagram.

Thank you for everybodys input and pointing out the danger of inadequate oil flow with the wrong choice of oil filter.
Now i have to find the correct vintage matching oil pressure sender and gauge (US made), since i dont want to use the current SW products.
Randolf

69a · 05-20-2025, 04:55 PM

Ok. I'm 99% sure that the filtered oil comes "OUT" from the center of the filter. And the filtered oil goes into the fitting closest to the center of the motor, the vertical fitting at the top of your first attachment.

petehoovie · 05-20-2025, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordson

First of all my sincere apologies for not having supplied complete information regarding the oil filter / circuit set up.
The flathead has been bored and tapped for free / full flow oil filter system ( more like 70% ).
The beehive case was customised with bigger entry and exit ports, larger diameter dispersing rod with 20 holes, by a gentleman recommended on the Ford Barn approx. 10 years ago. Unfortunately i cannot recall his name.
A standard off the shelf Beehive cannot be used for this system.

I could have used the spin on oil filter with bypass by Hildebrand, but did not find it as aesthetic and period correct as the beehive. The option of modifying an original vintage Filcoolator was dropped due to possible material issues from age and usage.

The set up / connection to the blocks ports is fairly simple as depicted in the diagram.

Thank you for everybodys input and pointing out the danger of inadequate oil flow with the wrong choice of oil filter.
Now i have to find the correct vintage matching oil pressure sender and gauge (US made), since i dont want to use the current SW products.
Randolf

69a · 05-20-2025, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69a

Ok. I'm 99% sure that the filtered oil comes "OUT" from the center of the filter. And the filtered oil goes into the fitting closest to the center of the motor, the vertical fitting at the top of your first attachment.

Also your fittings at the motor, especially the one at the bottom of your picture, don't look correct to me. You need to use the correct "Pushlock" hoses and fittings.

Bored&Stroked · 05-20-2025, 07:36 PM

Does this filter have a gasket setup to seal the pressure at the lid? When this thing is under full volume/pressure, it needs to have a gasket setup that won't leak out the top.

My guess is that this might be a bit problematic!

Lawrie · 05-21-2025, 01:46 AM

you need to heave those push on hose and fittings for sure.
Lawrie

69a · 05-21-2025, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrie

you need to heave those push on hose and fittings for sure.
Lawrie

Correct Pushlock hoses and fittings are perfect. I've used them for 40 years on two engines, 80% full flow and 100%. I remember when they first came out and they tested a hose. I can't remember if it was 3/8" or 1/4" but it blew at 600 psi. It burst the hose nowhere near the fittings. Temperature is rubbers biggest enemy, so I do replace the hoses when I've had the engine out.

fordson · 06-04-2025, 02:58 PM

Yes, the filter housing has a rubber seal. The oil hose we are using has a clearance of 200psi. Were just using this set up to start / run the engine, monitor oil pressure and check the filter housing to lid seal for leaks. Iam not using the car for any racing, just ordinary frequent driving.
If everything is in order we convert to push locks, any doubts i will get the Hildebrandt with push lock set up.
Thanks for the input.

05-19-2025, 01:26 PM	#2
Ken/Alabama Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 3,394	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead The fittings on the rear of the block are both pressurized . One of them supplies the oil filter and the other for the oil pressure sender. The supply to the filter goes into the side of the filter and the return at the bottom and goes back into the oil pan. The correct 59A oil pan should have a return fitting just ahead of the dipstick boss or have a provision for a fitting on the dipstick boss itself . Last edited by Ken/Alabama; 05-19-2025 at 01:35 PM.

05-19-2025, 02:43 PM	#5
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead Hey Ken: I'm not sure what his particular filter is . . . the originals I believe were drip-feed, though the repop aftermarket ones may be free/full flow. In the end as long as he understands the flathead oil system, he can determine how best to hookup his filter. The main thing is to NOT hookup a full-flow and send the oil back to the pan. PS: Given the size of his oil-lines in the picture, I sort of assumed it is an aftermarket repop with a regular full-flow filter inside of it . . . but who knows. Take care, B&S

05-19-2025, 03:27 PM	#7
69a Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 262	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead Read post #3 very carefully. You need to be 100% sure which type of filtering system your block is "plumbed" for. Failure to do that can result in destroying the engine. 1. You need to see if there is an internal plug in the horizontal oil gallery. 90% full flow if it is plugged. This system has both hoses fitted at the block. 2. You need to know if your actual filter is capable of providing sufficient flow. 3. If the oil gallery is not plugged, you are using the "bypass" system, and you must use a 0.060" restrictor between the block and the "IN" side of your filter.

05-19-2025, 08:17 PM	#8
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead I've read where some of these beehive filters use a cannister like the old Fram filters that bolted on the cylinder heads - with a .060 restrictor on the inlet. You need to carefully validate what you have - before knowing which way to plumb it.

05-20-2025, 04:55 PM	#10
69a Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 262	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead Ok. I'm 99% sure that the filtered oil comes "OUT" from the center of the filter. And the filtered oil goes into the fitting closest to the center of the motor, the vertical fitting at the top of your first attachment. Last edited by 69a; 05-20-2025 at 05:08 PM.

05-19-2025, 02:25 PM	#3
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead *Warning:* If this is a free/full flow oil filter (which your post implies), then you *cannot connect it as Ken has noted up above* - as you'll have a major pressure leak directly from the main oil galley to the pan. The original "Fram" type oil filters that mounted on the head were "drip feed" - they have a .060 orifice that controls the amount of oil that is bled off of the main galley and due to this orifice, they could return the oil directly to the pan. Only a portion of the oil is actually filtered at a moment in time . . . the rest of the flow goes straight into the main oil galley, so if a piece of material is picked up by the pump - it usually ends up in the bearings. If you are attempting to implement a full-flow type setup, than the oil-passages in the block have to be modified to direct the main oil-flow out of the block, into your filter and then back into the oil-galley. The above is what most call a "95%" filtration setup. I consider it more of a "66%" filtration setup as the rear main has its own pressure galley from the pump, so its oil is always coming from the pump - and not through your filter. Again, this takes mods to the block (drilling and tapping the galley) and should not be done AFTER the engine is assembled. The other method is for an aftermarket full-flow system where the oil-pump is modified to NOT send the pressurized oil to the main galley, but through a hose and out the side of the oil-pan. Then, this connection goes through a full-flow filter and the output is directed back into the main galley at the side of the block. This requires a special oil-pump setup and modifications to the oil-pan itself. Hopefully this helps. B&S Last edited by Bored&Stroked; 05-19-2025 at 02:42 PM.

05-20-2025, 07:36 PM	#13
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead Does this filter have a gasket setup to seal the pressure at the lid? When this thing is under full volume/pressure, it needs to have a gasket setup that won't leak out the top. My guess is that this might be a bit problematic!

05-21-2025, 01:46 AM	#14
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,529	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead you need to heave those push on hose and fittings for sure. Lawrie

06-04-2025, 02:58 PM	#16
fordson Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Switzerland/South Africa Posts: 201	Re: Q:Connecting free flow oil Filter to 59 AB Flathead Yes, the filter housing has a rubber seal. The oil hose we are using has a clearance of 200psi. Were just using this set up to start / run the engine, monitor oil pressure and check the filter housing to lid seal for leaks. Iam not using the car for any racing, just ordinary frequent driving. If everything is in order we convert to push locks, any doubts i will get the Hildebrandt with push lock set up. Thanks for the input.