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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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i've been able to collect a few sway bar & fittings photos, but lacking a way the sway bar swivel mounts to the front axle.
any direction to search will be helpful; thanks oops; edit: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...wivel.1213908/ it's the threaded part on the lower left i don't understand "how" |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: middle of Iowa
Posts: 888
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That’s the axle perch. Pre-1935 they held the spring shackle, but 35 and later they only attach the shock link, and sway bar beginning in 40.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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i think that's why i need a picture . . . .
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,394
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Here’s a drawing of it.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,603
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Here's the sway bar on my 40.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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with the picture and some searching i might be able to put the whole assembly into perspective. just spent hours taking my online "old peoples safe driving course" and i'm sort of frazzled so it's going to be an undertaking for tomorrow. thanks alchemy & Ken; your patience + responses are a help and i appreciate them. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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19Fordy - please see my post directly above.
and Thank You - you've saved me a bunch of digging for what i am looking for. if it's okay, i would like to print them for my files. appreciate you going to the effort of posting them. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,603
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Charles: You are welcome. You don't need permission to print the photos. If you need anymore photos send me a PM and I'll post them or PM your email address to me and I'll email you the photos you desire.
Last edited by 19Fordy; 05-14-2025 at 09:52 AM. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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thanks for the 'go-ahead.'
i would like to keep further inquiries in this thread if that's okay. maybe others could benefit from the Collective's knowledge. from current links in other threads, i find myself reading posts from 2008 0r '10 with regularity. it's all new if you don't know it. Q: is the first picture you posted (front axle parts diagram) from "the Green Book?" i've been tempted to purchase it online ( around $40) but i've heard it said the information is not entirely accurate. as of today, tomorrow's wind direction or star alignment may change the plan, i am tempted to buy a series of the Vern Tardel individual components books. saw an ad for a whole bundle for around 125$. forgot how many of which, but it represented a great savings over getting the individual books separately. i think it was a parts supplier and saved the link in such a secure location i can't put my cursor on it at the moment. thanks, sid |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,603
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charles: That photos id from this book: https://www.ebay.com/itm/16141771181...e8ddcef07f6265 I paid $15 for my copy about 40 years ago so look for a better price.
Buy the BIG GREEN BOOK. It's worth the money because there are so many parts that interchange. I have found the info. to be very accurate. Then, if I have a question, I post it on Fordbarn and folks help out. Goggle: 1940 Ford books and more good books appear: Last edited by 19Fordy; 05-14-2025 at 09:19 PM. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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okay; i feel better going into this investment with the endorsement.
i have printed the photos you added and am pen outlining the individual components to help me see what's going where. when i estimated for a residential construction company, i used to do this with blueprints ( whiteprints) & prismacolor markers. i helped me discern from often incomplete plans what it was i was looking at. there will be questions coming. but i really like the caps over the zerk fittings. i just replaced the fittings & greased the hinges on a double leaf 12' high wrought iron gate next to the atlantic ocean and felt luck u could visegrip out what stubs were left after 20 years of exposure so salt air. and , yes, i did add caps when the job was done! thanks again, sid |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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i'm getting closer to understanding the mix of things going on:
https://youtu.be/MsCIG-12T68?si=UiSiRS4TLWJrPusY&t=355 |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,603
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s.e: Good video. Just take plenty of photos and think the process thru before you start taking things apart. Use penetrating oil to help loosen tie rod ends and bolts. I installed a 4 inch dropped axle, dropped steering arms Posie reversed eye spring in my 40 and it all fit.
Installed 15 in. rims as I wanted the "raked look". I ran the dual exhaust through the frame rails, not under the frame or wishbone. Measure the ID of your brake drums to see if they are within spec. for safety. 12.060 in. max. ALSO: In the video, it appears that the little canvas spring pad was not installed on top of the spring. BE SURE to install the little canvas pad between the top of the spring and the cross member where the spring center bolt is located to prevent squeaking and wear. I used a thin piece of aluminum so it wouldn't rust OR ABSORB WATER. I tightened spring U-bolt nuts to 80 foot pounds. You can use this pad that already has the center hole in it. Cut length to fit your car. OR you can make your own pad. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12654871817...5d99a4c4075726 Last edited by 19Fordy; 05-18-2025 at 09:19 AM. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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i've finally had some time to go over the references i was provided in this thread and wanted to say "thank you" to everyone again.
all this 'book-learnin' is helping me understand. sid |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 3,971
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I didn't see anyone mention this but there was an early version of the sway bar that is very different from the one pictured by Ken Alabama. Some of the early chassis books have pictures of that odd one which could be confusing. I have never seen one of the early ones on a car, but they did exist. Kube may have had one on an early restoration.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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i try to, either in the first post, or in some cases the thread title, make it known that the information sought is for scale modeling. i certainly am not constructing museum pieces, but neither do i want something completely divorced from mechanical plausibility.
and i also want to keep the models within a time frame, so while a year or two discrepancy is not too much of a bend, there shouldn't be something jarringly out of place that it calls attention. thanks for bringing that to my attention. the picture shown is also on the Van Pelt site, which was recommended, and from memory there were at least 2 different ones shown. i did invest in the Green Book, and a lot of what i can use from it is also on the VP pages. the exploded views of things are helpful, too, but i do need to establish a stopping point in order to actually get something constructed. at 1:24 - 25 scales, the innards of an oil pump system or transmission are of limited value other than personal knowledge. thanks again & best regards, sid |
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