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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,425
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I've tried the vendors' 600 in the rear end which looks and feels like modern Chevron SAE 140 I have in a pail. Am now trying 1500w (modern non synthetic SAE 250) from Summit racing which doesn't foam as much as the 140. Non stock tranny so no 250wt. there.
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#22 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Westford, MA
Posts: 204
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Mike659874. Let me clarify some points. I am a newbie concerning Model A. This is my first season with one. So, I do not know yet if my issues shifting were due to my lack of experience or due to the gear oil. Now, with that clarify I will answer your questions. I tried 3 different 600W from Model A vendors. With all of them I was not able to shift without having some grinding. After reading many threads, I arrived to the conclusion that I will look to test a thicker gear oil. Could be it will help me on my learning curve. I thought about using STP. But many suggested not to use it and others to use it. At the end, because of the Zinc content and the yellow metals issue, I decided not to use it. If you search "gear oil" you will find many references to Meropa 680W as one of the modern gear oils with viscosity similar to the Henry Ford 600W. But I wanted something more like a Molasse ( like the STP). Then I found that Restoration Supplies was selling Meropa 1500W in small bottles with the legend "good for yellow metals ". My car is a January 1929 Tudor. It was fully restored and gear box done too, all in 2005. I do not know with certainty if I have yellow metals in my gear box. So I was afraid of using an oil that could bring future issues. Meropa 680W is widely used, based on my searches, and it has the same copper oxidation test of 1B, as the 1500W. Plus Restoration Supplies stated online "no issues with yellow metals:. I ordered 2 bottles, change the oil and drove the car all Massachusetts summer with the 1500W. It wasn't a "WOW, what a change". But definitely I was shifting better. There was a difference for good. The other big discussion was "in winter you will not be able to shift". Due to snow and salt I will not be driving my A in Winter. But I wanted to see what will be happening in November/December before the town spread salt in the streets. My first test is related in my first posting. Temperatures are detailed. YES, sifting with the car cold, before starting the car felt harder, BUT the gears moved without any problem. Started the car, waited a few minutes to warm the engine and when I shifted from first to 2nd..... WOW. It was smooth and no grinding at all. Same from 2nd to 3er. After 10+ miles the feeling was the same. Still I can feel that shifting was slower than in summer. Probably the gear oil, thicker due to the low temp. But it felt SO GOOD. I got for the first time the "YES, I can do it without grinding". I did several double clutching, but they were unnecessary. I was trying all the options in my testing. So this is my experience. I hope this helps. Best Daniel ps: all other places in my car have 600W from vendors Last edited by Forddan; 11-18-2019 at 07:25 PM. |
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#23 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Terre Haute, Indiana
Posts: 90
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This hub oil I bought at Rural King work great too , make trans smooth as butter.
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,532
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What kind of tool are you using to get the thick oil in the tranny? I tried the rubber bulb but the thick oil causes the end to pop off.
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#25 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Westford, MA
Posts: 204
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I hope this helps. Daniel |
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: (Old)Shasta (Redding) CA
Posts: 388
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Connoisseur of Rust |
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,532
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thanks. Good idea. I use a drip tray and old clothes. I'm hoping the tranny back end won't leack as much
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bay City Michigan
Posts: 1,050
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I will give it a try. I saved the link. My car takes a methodical three count double clutch for smooth operation and sometimes seems even that isnt enough. So im up for some improvement.
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,409
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When I first started driving on the farm, my pop had a 1952 F3 with the 4-speed T8 transmission and 11-inch clutch. I was determined to shift that thing with minimal gear clash. I eventually did by carefully listening to engine rpm during shifting. It's an art to match engine rpm to output speed but a person can get a feel for it over time. Double clutching helps but I found that I really only had to do that during down shifting after you get good at anticipating proper engine rpms to output speeds.
The thicker oil helps the countershaft cluster gear to slow down more quickly when the clutch is disengaged. I use SAE 85W/90 GL4 in my 29 model A and have no problem shifting it. I avoid downshifting down to low gear since it is generally only needed when stopping the car. I'll get a click now and then but I don't always concentrate as well as I probably should. When you get used to a car, it starts to become second nature. The car seeps a bit but no worse than any of the other old fords I've had over the years. They like to mark their spot. |
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#30 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NC Mountains
Posts: 739
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This covers it pretty well in my opinion. You can drive a vehicle that's hard for others to drive "UNTIL" they get used to it. You have to become intimate with whatever you are using to truly use it with no abuse. I drove a truck coast to coast back in the eigthies and had a WW2 vet as a partner for awhile. He was a super nice fellow and I wanted to impress him but also make his time in the sleeper as good as I could. I tried to not jerk any,, I shifted as smooth as I possibly could and I didn't slam on the brakes. The owner of the company told me the WW2 vet told him I was the smoothest driver he'd ever ridden with.
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#31 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10
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I believe you are referring to John Deere Corn Head Grease. This product is a flowable grease that withstands pressure and works best with slow rotations. Designed for the screw adjusters used in corn picking machines. It is also an ideal product for steering boxes. It doesn't leak like oil and retains proper lubrication properties of the steering box. Keeping in mind that it is for slow rotation situations, do not attempt to use it on anything else in your car other than the steering box.
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Steve A. Chicago, IL 1923 Ford Model T Depot Hack 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster 1929 Franklin 130 & 135 1930 Ford Model A Speedster 1932 Detroit Electric 1939 Ford V-8 Deluxe fordor 1946 Chevy 3600 Pickup 1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Sport Coupe with Wood Kit 1950 Studebaker Champion Starlight 1953 Dodge B4B pickup 1963 Chevrolet Corvair Spyder convertible |
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#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,425
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Tried the Corn Head green in the steering box; it separates into a liquid and leaked out a little. Now using the 1500w and in the rear end..
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#33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,429
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CORN HEAD grease needs heat to become liquid and lubricate the sector bushings. The steering gearbox doesn’t create enough heat to turn the grease liquid and lubricant the gearbox ! I now use 1500w oil from Mike’s A Fordable or 600w steam clylinder oil !
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Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
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#34 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 820
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Welcome back 1819 and 2019.
1819 for those that use 1500w oil in anything. 2019 for the resurrection of a precovid era post that was dormant. |
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#35 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,005
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![]() LUCAS Hub Oil - Stops Leaks - Bill Pursel |
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