Flathead pre-oiler - good, bad and the ugly?

[Ziggster]

Pic of the back of the block with the oil ports.

[V8 Bob]

Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE during initial fresh build start-ups, and regular oil changes.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE.

That is a great idea! Cheap and easy to build!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE.

[Ziggster]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE.

I had actually thought about that. I think I have one somewhere. lol!

[Bored&Stroked]

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You can use any of those three ports - they all end up pumping out into the main galley above the camshaft

[Drbrown]

Not to be negative regarding pre-oiler systems ..... My '47 doesn't sit toooo long between usage. The engine is in good condition, has an 80 lb oil pump and at idle RPM its mechanical gauge shows 80 lbs when cold and 20-25 lbs when at running temperature. If it did sit for long I'd put fresh 10w oil in, remove the plugs, squirt some MMO in the cylinders and crank the engine without plugs for a few cycles of at least a minute each AFTER the mechanical oil gauge shows pressure. After starting and running to normal temperature, I'd then change to the usual 10w-30w I use. For short periods of non-use I just crank the engine with ignition off until oil pressure is full up. Stop, let the pressure dispense, then start the engine.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

Pic of the back of the block with the oil ports.