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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 247
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I’m into restoration more than just buying new parts. I have played with nickel plating for a little while. Watched a lot of videos and decided it was well within my abilities to do it.
Having a ‘28 almost everything that was bright work on my car was nickel so I figured this would come in handy if I could figure it out. First pieces I did were the control rods for the steering column. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() For those interested you need the following: Nickel electrodes (Amazon) Power source (I got a benchtop power supply off Amazon but you can achieve this with a old phone charger if needed) Vinegar (10%) Table salt (t to Tbs quantity) Surfactant (optional but reduces pitting at the end. I used a couple coffee filters over the electrodes to catch and debris. Create your nickel acetate solution using the vinegar, salt, electrodes, power supply and time. Clean your parts. I dipped them in a 50/50 muriatic acid and water mix to etch it right before plating. Total plate time was about 10 minutes for each rod at about 2V to keep it shiny. If anyone wants more details let me know. Next up is black oxide. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 505
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Nice job! The rods look great!
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Signal Mtn, TN (SE TN)
Posts: 2,591
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I do nickel and copper all the time! Both can be done reasonably safe.
Good explanation. Works fine…just go to YouTube for live videos |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Baldwinsville NY
Posts: 238
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Wow, excellent results!
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,220
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Psimit,Thanks for your post.
I have an accelerator pedal in my AV8 roadster. I had it plated nickel but it is shiny .This has bugged me for years. I will try the gray scotchbrite method. John
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Welcome each day Last edited by john in illinois; 03-27-2025 at 10:39 AM. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Great Dismal Swamp
Posts: 394
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![]() I've been restoring dash lights for a bit now. I'm happy with how they are coming out, but the challenge is getting the functionality right too. I'm working with a company to level up to a larger system that would allow me to plate everything short of radiator shells (dashboards, shift levers, emergency brakes, etc.) so that might be an exciting (though expensive) hobby if we can get it off the ground. ![]()
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Member, MARC Current owner, 1928 RHD Australian-built Phaeton CA4752 "Felicity" and a 1931 Victoria "Katie" Former owner, 1929 Phaeton, 1929 Fordor |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 370
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An Aussie friend even does his own bumpers. He uses a piece of 4 inch PVC, capped, and top cut off for a tank, I guess more like a trough. Your parts look good.
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 247
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![]() Quote:
I’ve been planning on doing my bumpers at some point. Been trying to figure out the tank. Does your friend lay that down and cut the pipe lengthwise or upright and drop the bumper in from the top? Got any pictures? |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 247
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![]() Quote:
I’m planning on doing all those parts and see where I get. Got nothing to lose as they all look horrible right now. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 370
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No pictures, but he lays it down like a trough. Minimal fluid. I've seen pictures of his bumpers and they look good. As you know most of the work is in the preparation.
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