Nu-REX upper distributor plate question...

[halpeters]

I have a stock distributor, and I just purchased a new "NU-REX" upper distributor plate, with modern points and condenser.

The existing plate had modern points, but the friction arm, instead of a wire to make contact with the lower plate. The lower plate that was in it was wood with a copper contact pad, but that is another story, and now has been replaced with a NU-REX lower plate, and wire.

My problem is the new NU-REX upper plate will not fit over the distributor shaft, and the inner hole is considerably smaller than the upper plate that was in the car.

The inner hole diameter on NU-REX is 0.720 inches, and the old plate is 0.760 inches, and easily fits over the shaft.

My questions are:

1. What is the correct diameter of the distributor shaft where the distributor sits?

2. Is the 0.720 inch inside hole diameter on NU-REX upper plate correct?

3. Is there something I'm missing?

The good news, is I was able to use the old upper plate, with the new lower late and wire, so i am running....

I appreciate everyone's help!!

Hal

[Bob C]

I measured an original upper plate and the hole is .716 and the part of the distributor body where the upper plate rotates is .711.

[Y-Blockhead]

Are you trying to fit the upper plate without removing the point cam? I don't think the hole is large enough to fit over the cam.

[halpeters]

Bob C - I appreciate the measurements - It looks like the NU-REX plate is the correct diameter, so I will check my distributor shaft next - it is in the car, so won't be until this weekend.

Y-Blockhead - Yes, I had the distributor cam off, as I changed it also, and I still couldn't get the NU-REX plate to fit in place.

THANKS!!!

Hal

[Bob C]

I assume the arrow points to the area in question?

[Ed in Maine]

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My Victoria also has the new upper plate from Nurex. I don't remember having the problem you described. However I have had problems with adjusting the modern points after the wear block has been worn some. I was having trouble getting a 0.020 point gap. What I found in my case is that the adjusting screw in the upper mounting plate was too close to the edge of the adjusting hole in the points. I couldn't increase the point gap because the edge of the hole was hitting the mounting screw. My solution was to use a Dremel tool and open the hole slightly in the points so that the 0.020 gap could be made. Has anyone else seen this problem? Ed

[jg61hawk]

Ed in Maine...Yep....I last adjusted my points and thought what is going on? I had to push to get the correct gap...and thought I guess the block wore a lot faster than expected! I only had about 3,000 miles...I was just getting ready for a road trip. The gap has not changed in about 1,000 miles....WHO KNOWS?

[katy]

Quote: "adjusting the modern points after the wear block has been worn some."

Quote: " I guess the block wore a lot faster than expected!"

Had the same problem and found that the replacement points cam was not as super smooth as the original cam, in fact it was fairly rough, after smoothing and polishing up the new cam, no more problem w/the points block wearing down. If the points cam is smooth enough and w/a little lubricant the points block shouldn't hardly wear at all.

[Y-Blockhead]

I'm not exactlly sure what the issue is here. The upper plate has to fit the center of the distributor housing in order to keep the two concentric. If it didn't, every time you moved the timing lever it would change the point gap.

But you're saying the upper plate won't even fit over the shaft, which is smaller than the housing?

Maybe our nominclature is different?

I think we need pictures...

[halpeters]

Originally Posted by Bob C

I assume the arrow points to the area in question?

Yes, it wouldn't slide far enough down the shaft to be able to lock into the slots the hold it in place.

I need to get a good measurement of the shaft, and see what the diameter is. The 2 old plates that i have fit right in.

Thanks,

Hal

[halpeters]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I'm not exactlly sure what the issue is here. The upper plate has to fit the center of the distributor housing in order to keep the two concentric. If it didn't, every time you moved the timing lever it would change the point gap.

But you're saying the upper plate won't even fit over the shaft, which is smaller than the housing?

Maybe our nominclature is different?

I think we need pictures...

Yes, that is correct - The old plates are considerably larger (.040" larger), and drop right in place.

Now knowing the NU-REX plate is the correct size, I need to pull it back apart, and see if I just didn't fiddle with it enough, or if there is some reason why the old plates are larger.

I appreciate everyone's help!!

Hal

[chap52]

Call NuRex... They have always been helpful and have probably dealt with this very issue before. Chap

[Bob C]

The hole in the upper plate has to be a snug fit on the stub on the distributor housing, if not the point gap will be changing as the plate moves around. This picture Marco posted shows how to tighten up the hole if it's to big.

[Tom F OHIO]

Do you have another shaft you could try the nurex on??