Windshield Hold Open Hardware

[Bob Bidonde]

What is the correct stack-up of hardware on the windshield hold open stud?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

What is the correct stack-up of hardware on the windshield hold open stud?

This is from Bratton's online catalog. https://www.brattons.com/SWING-ARM-N...uctinfo/30140/ This is the way I have mine. I can't tell if you have the flat washer.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

This is from Bratton's online catalog. https://www.brattons.com/SWING-ARM-N...uctinfo/30140/ This is the way I have mine. I can't tell if you have the flat washer.

I have assembled mine in this order and it works fine. Most important is that the Belleville washer goes immediately before the nut. Depending on the alignment of the arm to the flat on the fixed post (which is determined by the position of the windshield in its top hinge), you may need additional flat washers stacked to the outside of the swing arm to enable the swing arm to travel freely. I've also found that the rubber washers vary in thickness, with some so thin that they don't protrude outside of their cups. So you may need to stack another flat washer inside of the cup to get the rubber to protrude.

[nkaminar]

This is great information. I don't think my car is set up correctly. I do think that the swing arm with the notches works great to hold the windshield where I set it.

[Bob Bidonde]

Is this the correct assembly and is it correct for 1928 thru 1931?

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Is this the correct assembly and is it correct for 1928 thru 1931?

Yes and Yes

[Bob Bidonde]

I have done more research using old dealer's catalogs and the Ford Body Parts List of April 1932. My sketch in Post 5 I do not believe is correct. For example, the swing arm in Post 5 is backwards. The sketch attached to this post makes more sense to me.
I find there are 4 basic configurations of the windshield swing arm assembly, one for the 60-A & 60-B Briggs Leather-Back Fordors, one for the remainder of 1928-'29, one for 1930-'31 straight windshield vehicle and one for 1931 slant windshield cars.
Once I get confirmation or corrections to the sketch below, I will detail it with part numbers and post it here again.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

I have done more research using old dealer's catalogs and the Ford Body Parts List of April 1932. My sketch in Post 5 I do not believe is correct. For example, the swing arm in Post 5 is backwards. The sketch attached to this post makes more sense to me.
I find there are 4 basic configurations of the windshield swing arm assembly, one for the 60-A & 60-B Briggs Leather-Back Fordors, one for the remainder of 1928-'29, one for 1930-'31 straight windshield vehicle and one for 1931 slant windshield cars.
Once I get confirmation or corrections to the sketch below, I will detail it with part numbers and post it here again.

I think either could be correct depending upon which side you think you are showing, and where the windshield is. There is only one way that the swing arm will fit into position so that it folds up parallel to the windshield as the windshield closes. Post #5 would be correct for the right side, looking from the outside through the windshield. Post 7 would be correct or the left side looking from the inside out.

[Bob Bidonde]

This is my presentation slide & I hope it is correct. I find that this aspect of the Model A has been overlooked, so that is my motivation for this slide.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

This is my presentation slide & I hope it is correct. I find that this aspect of the Model A has been overlooked, so that is my motivation for this slide.

removed

[Dick M]

Post #5 looks correct to me and that is how I have it configured on my A. It only makes sense that the spring washer would be between the big nut and the steel/rubber washer to hold the nut tight..

[Bob Bidonde]

This topic needs more research. Some of you have issues with the swing arms on a slant rather than being parallel to the A-Pillar. I find that there are perhaps 4 different swing arm brackets riveted to the windshield, so if you swapped windshields the bracket maybe wrong for your Model A. This leads to the fact that the windshield frames are not as interchangeable as some may think. More to follow. I need pictures of a bracket riveted to the windshield frames of a 1928 60-A or 60-B Briggs Leather-back, a bracket on a 1929 closed car other than a 60-A or 60-B, a bracket on a 1930-'31 closed car with a straight windshield, and a bracket on a 1931 slant windshield car.

[Bob C]

Here's some pictures Marco posted.

[Bob Bidonde]

Bob C, thank you for the pictures. I will use them to expand the slides for te windsheild hold open assembly.

[nkaminar]

Hey Bob, In your slide you say to "weld through holes". Do you mean to drill through holes.

[JayJay]

Bob - here are some shots of my early (straight firewall) '31 slant Town Sedan, right side from inside. If you'll PM me with an email addy I'll send them to you in larger format.

I also have a January/February '30 TS that I'll get some shots of when I'm at the shop this week.

[Bob Bidonde]

JayJay, thanks for the pictures. I downloaded them, and I can format them for use.

[Bob Bidonde]

I am still looking for pictures of the windshield hold open brackets in a 60-A or 60-B Briggs Leather-back sedan. I also need a picture of the bracket in a 1929 closed car.

[Bob Bidonde]

nkaminar, because the holes are blind, I would attach a new bracket to the A-Pillar by welding in the holes in the bracket and cover the welds with dummy rivet heads.

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Dick M

Post #5 looks correct to me and that is how I have it configured on my A. It only makes sense that the spring washer would be between the big nut and the steel/rubber washer to hold the nut tight..

The wave washer goes where the swing arm attaches to the windshield frame. It's there to stop rattles not as a lock washer. I don't think the lock washer shown there on the oval head screw (message 9) should be there as that is a rotating point and the screw should just bottom out in the frame leaving it free to rotate.

There shouldn't be a need for a lock washer between the thumb nut and steel/rubber washer.